fishing gear

Washington State, known for its stunning landscapes and diverse outdoor activities, offers a unique and thrilling experience for anglers during the winter months, Ice Fishing. As the temperatures drop and the lakes freeze over, enthusiasts from all over gather their gear and head to some of the state's most picturesque frozen waters. In this article, we’ll dive into the icy wonderland of 5 lakes that stand out as prime destinations for ice fishing in Washington: Curlew Lake, Bead Lake, Sacheen Lake, Banks Lake, and Eloika Lake.

Curlew Lake: A Frozen Oasis In The Northeast

Curlew Lake, nestled more in the Northcentral portion of the state, transforms into a winter wonderland, drawing anglers seeking a tranquil ice fishing experience. The lake spans over 900 acres and is surrounded by snow-covered mountains and hills, creating a beautiful backdrop to your frozen adventure.

The lake is home to a variety of fish, with Rainbow Trout and Yellow Perch being the most sought-after during the winter months. Anglers often set up shanties or their ice fishing spots right outside the state park patiently waiting for the telltale signs of the fish below, which doesn't take long. The vast mud flat just outside the park holds amazing numbers and is easy to get into. The camaraderie among anglers and the stunning scenery make Curlew Lake a must-visit destination for any Ice Fishing aficionado.

Bead Lake: A Hidden Gem in The North Mts.

Nestled in the North of Spokane Mountains, Bead Lake is a hidden gem that offers a secluded and serene ice fishing experience. The lake, surrounded by dense forests and snow-covered peaks, provides a pristine setting for anglers looking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Bead Lake is known for its healthy population of Kokanee, and the popular large lake trout that roams the depths. As large marks appear on your sonar, don't be surprised if it's not a laker, but a monster of a burbot making this lake an enticing destination for those seeking a variety of catches. As you set up your gear on the frozen expanse of Bead Lake, the quietude and natural beauty will transport you to a world of tranquility, making each catch a memorable moment.

Sacheen Lake: Serenity and Splendor In Pend Oreille County

Located in Pend Oreille County, Sacheen Lake offers a charming blend of serenity and splendor during the winter months. Surrounded by evergreen forests and snow-covered hills, the lake becomes a haven for ice-fishing enthusiasts seeking a peaceful escape. 

Sacheen Lake is known for its panfish, including perch and crappie, which are abundant and fun to chase. Also, fun to target nice trout under the ice as well, with good chances of catching! Rainbow, Brook, and Tiger Trout provide excellent opportunities for ice anglers to enjoy a variety of catches. As you drill your fishing holes and set up your equipment, take a moment to absorb the quiet tranquility of Sacheen Lake, where the only sounds are the soft crunch of snow beneath your boots and the occasional call of a winter bird.

Banks Lake: A Vast Frozen Playground in Central Washington

For those looking for a more expensive ice fishing experience, Banks Lake in Central Washington is a prime destination. This reservoir spans close to 27,000 acres and is known for its diverse fish population, including Walleye, Rainbow Trout, Burbot, and Whitefish which are the most popular to go after.

Ice fishing on Banks Lake is a social affair at times, with clusters of anglers setting up their shanties in popular spots and many staying overnight. The vast frozen expanse provides ample opportunities for exploration, and to get away from the crowds if needed. As the sun sets over the snow-covered horizon, the frozen lake transforms into a canvas of colors. Banks Lake is not only a haven for anglers, but also a visual spectacle that captivates the senses. 

Elokia Lake: An Ice Anglers Original

Nestled in the heart of Northeastern Washington State, Elokia Lake transforms into a winter wonderland for avid ice fishing enthusiasts. As temperatures drop, the lake's icy surface becomes a haven for those seeking the thrill of angling beneath a blanket of snow.

Eloika Lakes expands over 600 acres, providing ample space for ice fishermen to explore its frozen expanses. One of the primary draws for anglers is the diverse range of fish species that inhabit this lake. Brown Trout, Rainbow Trout, Large-mouth Bass, Perch, Crappie, and Sunfish. Seems that Crappie are what attracts most ice anglers. 

The savvy ice anglers will target the Brown and Rainbow Trout early season just a couple of feet below the ice and near creek outlets. Eloika’s cold waters create an ideal environment for these fish. Anglers can also test their skills against the Large-mouth bass, known for their elusive behavior even in freezing temperatures, and they are big in this lake, especially on an ice rod. 

Yellow Perch and Crappie add a variety to the fishing experience at Eloika. These panfish offer more of a relaxing angling experience, making the lake suitable for seasoned veterans and beginners alike. Perch are abundant and make sure to check the regulations for the Crappie size and limit.

As ice fishing shelters and anglers dot the frozen landscape, camaraderie flourishes among anglers who gather to share stories and tips. Eloika Lakes icy embrace beckons, offering a unique and thrilling experience for those willing to brave the cold pursuit and snag the perfect catch!

Farmed. Hatchery. Wild.

I fed a rusty orange streamer into the current, threw an upstream mend, and let it swing. We call it First Water. It's what you get early in the morning when you get to the river before the next guy. First Water makes you smile after a hard week at work. Like making lemonade out of lemons.

A trout hammered the fly and the tippet snapped. Heart pounding, I cut the leader back to 8-pound, tied on another fly and cast quartering-down. This time when the fish hit, it turned and charged, coming straight out of the water. Five minutes later we slid the net under a four-pound gnarly, hook-jawed brood stock rainbow. We have learned from experience it's hard to revive the big hatchery rainbows, so it was an easy decision to keep it for the table.

FARMED, HATCHERY, WILD OR NATIVE?

Here's a thing that doesn't make sense. We go to the grocery store and complain about the price of groceries and then we drive to the lake and catch and release a limit of rainbow trout at $10 a pound. I've done it. 

Hey, those fish were put there to catch and keep. It's healthy food, high in omega-3 fatty acids and B vitamins. Easy to catch (sometimes). Easy to clean. Tastes good. Good for you. 

Think of it like this: we have rainbows, cutthroats, brook trout, brown trout, bull trout, and lake trout in our lakes, rivers, and hatchery raceways. Some of them end up behind the butcher's glass at the grocery store. How do we tell where they came from? The ones in the cellophane and Styrofoam, that's easy. Those are farmed fish, which are generally shoveled a high-quality pelletized food and then fed a carotenoid called Astaxanthin which gives the meat an orange color and improves the taste. 

According to Luke Allen, from the Wizard Falls Hatchery and Tim Foulk from the Fall River Hatchery, astaxanthin is produced by microalgae which is ingested by small fish and invertebrates like krill, which are then ingested by fish.  

In Oregon, hatchery-raised rainbow trout (and cutthroats) are classified as legals (usually 8 to 12 inches), trophies (usually 14 to 18 inches), and brood stock, which are the surplus breeding trout that tip the scales somewhere between four to ten pounds. In Central Oregon, these fish end up in places like Pine Hollow Reservoir, Walton Lake, South Twin, and Fall River. Hatchery trout may also be released as fingerlings in waters like Lava Lake, East Lake and Diamond Lake where the natural feed is so good the fish grow fast. Fingerlings are also released in the high lakes every other year. Fingerlings, although raised in hatcheries in geometric order, tend to behave and look more like wild trout as they reach a harvestable age.

The terms wild and native can refer to the same fish or mean two different things. Brown trout, brook trout, and lake trout are not indigenous to Oregon but were introduced. Browns come from Germany and brooks come from the East Coast. That's why we refer to them as German browns and Eastern brooks. But if they were hatched in gravel we call them wild trout.

The term native is inclusive of rainbows, cutthroat and bull trout. In some cases these fish may be caught, kept and eaten, but it’s a good idea to release them to spawn and prosper. If you catch a brookie in the high lakes, hey, that's some of the best wild food you can get. And you are not eating a native fish.   

A steelhead is a rainbow trout that migrated from freshwater to the ocean and returned. If a person eats farmed steelhead, it is probably not steelhead at all, but rainbow trout packaged as steelhead. An angler that catches and eats a fin-marked steelhead has consumed a hatchery steelhead. Surplus steelhead that returned to their hatcheries in places like Nehalem or Three Rivers are often trucked to coastal lakes and set free to give anglers another chance at them. Because they will probably not thrive in the lake, the highest use of these fish is to turn them into a good meal. 

Fisheries managers sometimes struggle with the divide between the consumptive and the catch-and-release ethic. 

Diamond Lake was devoid of fish before it was stocked by mule trains in the early 1900s. The food-rich lake still grows fish to trophy proportions and not enough gets taken home by sportsmen. It's a resource we could be making better use of, and the same principle applies all over the state from Lake Selmac to Wallowa Lake to Bikini Pond to Rock Creek Reservoir to Lava Lake. Those fish are there to eat. And there are some really good things like dill, parsley and lemon that go great with a pan full of eastern brookies or hatchery 'bows.

That's why I say when life gives you lemons, go catch a trout.

For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709 To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

By Josh DeBruler

As summer winds to an end, readers are likely anticipating glorious tales of monster sized salmon bending rod tips over the sides of boats, while adrenaline filled anglers run about with nets in hand, hoping to assist a buddy in bringing the big-one aboard for a well earned grip-and grin photo of a lifetime.

This story, regretfully, does not end in such a manner. The story does, however, dispel some myths about importance of boat size, shares some boating safety advice that pertains to smaller boats, and ends with a nice haul of tasty fish (the type that are more suited for a fryer rather than a smoker).

It was Saturday morning in the Sekiu village, and the gentle waves of the incoming tide at Clallum bay woke me in my tent at Masons Marina.

Thick marine fog typically blankets the waters from Sekiu to Neah Bay during the summer mornings, however, the start to this day greeted me with glassy calm seas, and blue skies that extended from Masons marina, all the way north, across the straits, and to the mountainous shores of Victoria B.C.

It was perfect weather, and it helped ease the nerves that had been accumulating over the past two days as I obsessed about all of the things that could possibly go wrong in a small boat out on the big water.

My boat is a V-hull 2008 14’ Smoker Craft Pro Mag with a 20 HP Honda. It’s a good little boat, equipped with a live well, an electric trolling motor, navigation lights, and a backup 6 hp Suzuki that I keep onboard in case of emergencies.

I take her out often, with most of my destinations being on the Puget Sound, Hood Canal, and various lakes in my region. But, as with many others that own boats similar to mine, the thought of taking a small boat out onto water that behaves a lot like the ocean never really crossed my mind.

Boating is fun, until it isn’t. And I’ve always figured it was better to avoid a bad situation than to plop myself directly into one. It wasn’t until I was on the Hood Canal that a friend told me about Sekiu, and how anglers were easily catching their limits of chinook and coho up there, that I began to put more thought into the idea.

Thus, a seed was planted. As I researched and asked around, I found that it was actually quite common to take smaller boats out around Clallum bay. In fact, 14’ kicker boats were at one time the most common sport-fishing boats seen on the water.

At least, that was the case in the 1940’s, when most people weren’t towing around larger boats and instead opted to rent the 14 footers from the marinas. The marinas still rent boats of this size today, most of them equipped with 15 HP outboards.

Sekiu is the quintessential small fishing town. It has two main marinas (both with campgrounds), a handful of motels, a cafe, a restaurant, and plenty of fishing tackle. The town got it start as a salmon cannery back in the late 1800’s, but after regulations ceased to allow commercial fishing, the cannery business crashed, and Sekiu had to look to other industries like logging, hide tanning, and sport fishing.

The latter of the three being the one that worked, and oh did it work well. The fishing is world-class, and seldom will you find anywhere outside of Alaska that has this type of salmon and other saltwater fishing. The unincorporated community is situated right inside Clallum bay, in the northwestern portion of the Strait of Juan De fuca.

The bay itself, and just west of the bay, enjoys decent protection from S,SW,W, and NW winds. Once you head further towards the ocean or out north into the open water, you become more exposed to the common west and northwesterly winds.

Luckily, you will find excellent fishing near-shore, or without having to travel too far west in the direction of the ocean. In fact, most fisherman catch their limits of salmon just west of the bay near what is known as “the Caves”.

Two main summer-run salmon routes exist in the area, and those two routes follow near shore on the Canada side and near shore on the Washington side. This is an ideal situation for a small boat fisherman who doesn’t want to venture too far out into the open water.

When I motored out of the marina that first morning, I was a day behind on my already limited schedule. This had me fishing on an odd numbered day of the month. At the time, odd days were closed to salmon retention due to emergency regulations set by the Department of Fish and Wildlife.

This meant that fishing for salmon that day was out of the picture. However, in Marine Area 4, just northwest of me, lingcod, rockfish, and other bottom dwellers were all very much on the table! To get to these, I had to run about 5 miles west to Shipwreck Point just east of Neah Bay.

So, with calm waters on my port side, I gunned it west towards the MA-4 boundary line. The swell and wind forecast for that day were predicted to be favorable up until around 1pm, and so far, the predictions seemed to be holding up.

My little boat planed quite nicely heading out with the ebb tide and gracefully skipped over the rolling swells. My first “yikes” moment occurred when I approached Kaydaka point. This large point that sits roughly 2 miles from the marina brings underwater structure out into the straits, and as a result, kicks up the wave height significantly.

Though the increased wave size didn’t pose a significant threat to me, I still figured it was a good idea to run a bit further offshore to avoid the turbulence. It’s worth noting that points like these can present sea conditions that might not be tolerable for particularly small boats during rougher conditions.

The bottom fishing was hot within minutes of being inside the MA 4 boundary.

I fished a 2 oz jig head with a pearl white double tailed grub over some structure, and within minutes I was into some fish. A few good-sized lingcod found my hook, along with several rockfish and a beautiful cabezon that fought like a bull! All in all, the day was a success.

I won’t bore you with the details of my next morning’s salmon trolling trip. I only had an hour to get it done, and let’s just say I’m still eating last season’s silvers from my freezer (and yes, some of it’s looking a little freezer burnt). But the success was had in that I made it back to the marina both days in one piece.

This wasn’t accomplished in a 30’ fishing boat that’s worth more than my life savings- nope, this was done in 14’ aluminum boat with a small engine and an even smaller backup.

Small Boat Safety

Now, let’s talk the important stuff. Small boat safety. Is it safe to take a small aluminum boat onto the straits? It certainly can be! There are inherent risks that come with any type of boating, regardless of the boat size or the water that you are on.

Risk assessment, risk avoidance, and preparation are all key components to keeping you safe on the water.

DISCLAIMER: I am by no means, an expert on boating safety. All I can do is share what works for me and what I have learned myself.

My first bit of safety prep comes well before I arrive at the marina. Fortunately for me, I have a work schedule that affords me the liberty to plan my trips around weather windows, so I’ll start by looking for consistently fair weather in the long-range forecasts.

As I get closer to my desired departure dates, I’ll home in on the NOAA webpage and start looking at wind directions and speed, wind waves, then swell predictions (paying close attention to wave period or duration), and then tide charts. It’s important to know how wind, swell, and tide currents all work together to cause either rough or manageable conditions.

I don’t have the page space to get into that here, but there are plenty of resources available online for anybody who wants to educate themselves on the nuances of ocean behavior. The calm waters typically occur in the morning, so be up and ready before sunrise.

If the winds are predicted to pick up, say, by 1pm, then I’ll be heading back to the marina at least 2 hours before those winds are predicted to occur.

Safety Equipment

Before I leave the docks I want to make sure I have life jackets (I carry an auto-inflate and a standard), a waterproof radio, working navigations lights, at least two GPS devices, a manual bilge pump in case my auto fails, a well-tuned and properly functioning outboard motor, a backup kicker, flare gun, an air- horn, and a reflector to hang up in case of dense fog.

Aside from these things, I also try to scout out beaches nearby that would be suitable for beaching my boat in case a situation calls for it. This is definitely a last-ditch option, as the risk of damaging the boat on rocks is very present.

So, will I be taking my boat my boat out to Sekiu again? Absolutely! I already have my next trip planned! Do larger boats afford more comfort and protection in the event you get stuck in some adverse conditions?

They absolutely do. But, if a capable small boat is all that you have, and you have educated yourself on all the safety measures necessary, then there is no reason for you to wait till you get that 100k boat to go have some fun and catch fish in arguably the most productive fishing grounds in our region.

By Jason Brooks

Every April, trout anglers get excited for the general lowland lakes opener: a day steeped in tradition, with tackle shops catering to the angler with spring sales, campgrounds hanging “welcome fishermen” banners, and families making long distance trips in the R.V. to their favorite lake.

State fisheries departments also get into the act by stocking the lakes full of “catchable” sized trout that are eager to bite. But by mid-summer, those same lakes are full of water skiers, swimmers, pleasure boats, and pure chaos on the weekends.

No wonder why trout anglers move away from these lakes during the hot months, but why do anglers forgo returning to the lakes once the summer tourists are gone? There is no need to wait until next spring for some good fishing, but don’t wait too long, as most of these lakes will close at the end of the month.

Those planter trout have put on some weight and learned to eat natural food sources. Instead of little “stocker” fish, the trout are now more like their native cousins: eager to bite, putting up a way better fight, and more likely to survive if you choose to do some catch and release fishing.

Trout will have also dispersed throughout the lake and lurk in places where they can feed and stay away from predators. Much like native fish, the planted trout now cruise the shoreline looking for bugs, or head to the deeper water during the day, only to come to the surface at last light when a hatch occurs and the fish rise.

Since the fish are no longer hanging out near the surface or the stocking area, you might find it a bit harder to catch them. In reality, it is still easy to get them to bite, you just need to find where they are so you can offer them something they want to eat or attack.

Trolling is your best bet but it doesn’t have to involve downriggers, sonar units, GPS plotters, or other “high tech” accessories like those that are used out salmon fishing in the ocean. The key to finding the fish is to remember that trout are affected by the water temperature, and our warm fall days followed by cool nights varies the water temperature more so than in the summer.

It is much like the spring when the same conditions are occurring. In the early morning and evening hours the fish will still be up towards the surface, both for bug activity as well as warmer water temperature.

As the bright sunlight of the mid-day sun hits the surface, the fish will go a little bit deeper, to get away from predators as well as stay in a moderate temperature. If you do have a sonar unit that can show you the thermocline, then use this for the mid-day fishing and concentrate on that depth.

Trolling is one of the most productive ways to find fish in a lake. A basic trolling set-up is a 3 or 4 blade “Flash Lite’s” gang troll by Mack’s Lure trailed by a Double Whammy Smile Blade Wedding Ring Spinner, tipped with a piece of worm.

Put a ½ ounce or a 1-ounce banana weight sinker in front and slowly troll along until you get bit. Another set-up is to use the free slider by Yakima Bait Company, but modify it a bit by adding a small pinch release to the front of the slider and attach a one-ounce cannonball weight.

From the mainline, tie a leader trailing behind a swivel. A black, brown, or olive-green Rooster Tail spinner, a wooly bugger fly, or a even a Mack’s Lure Smile Blade Fly is great for this set-up. Let the line out about twenty feet while holding onto the slider.

Use the pinch release to secure the slider on the mainline, and then drop it to your desired depth. This allows you to fish a small lure or fly with a weight to get it down to your desired depth, but the weight won’t affect or scare off the fish.

When a fish gets hooked, a small yank on the mainline will cause it to come free of the pinch release, and now you are fighting the fish with the slider back in its original free-sliding condition. Buzz Ramsey taught me this trick while out spring chinook fishing a few years ago and it works great for trout and kokanee anglers who don’t have downriggers.

Now that you found the fish, it is important to concentrate on that part of the lake. Circle back around and keep trolling in the same area. Making a figure eight pattern also keeps you on the fish. Watch the clock though, as once the bite “turns off” it could be something as simple as the fish moving depths due to the sun or water temperature. 

Bait anglers also do well, but unlike in the opening week of the spring season, the fish are not all congregated around the stocking area. Since they are spread out a little bit, don’t expect a “hot bite” to occur. One of the best things you can do if you prefer to use bait is to increase your leader length to at least 48 inches.

This is because the weeds have had all summer to grow and you need that bait to get above them. Another option is to use a slip-bobber. This allows you to adjust the depth of your bait. Make sure to put a weight below the hooks if you are using a floating bait such as Power bait.

Using scents is probably the most under-utilized techniques for trout anglers. Those that fish for steelhead use scents all the time but we tend to forget that a steelhead and a rainbow trout are the same fish.

By using scent, you can attract the fish to you as well as cover up unwanted scents that you transferred to your bait or lures that are undesirable to fish. Just like in winter steelhead fishing, some of the same popular scents work for fall trout fishing. When fishing lures, it is best to use “sauces” or gels as they tend to stick on the metal or plastic much better and you don’t need to reapply as often.

Bait oils are a good “all-around” and can be used on baits, lures, and some flies. If you are using a delicate fly, such as a wooly bugger that has a marabou tail or a hackle, then make sure to use the water-soluble oils so they don’t ruin the fly or its action. Popular scents that are extremely productive are Pro-Cure’s Bloody Tuna, Trophy Trout, Sweet Corn, and Nightcrawler.

Fly anglers know that the fall is a prime time to head to a lake. Trout are used to eating aquatic insects and have adjusted their feeding from the hatchery pellets rained down from heaven to the various insects in the lake, as well as those flying above.

For early mornings, try a moderate to slow sinking line and fish wet flies. Small streamers, leeches, and wooly buggers are fun to strip in but the chironomids, pheasant tail nymphs, and hare’s ears can be more productive.

Mid-day, the air temperature warms up, and a daily dry fly hatch occurs. Most of the bugs are small, so try a mosquito, Adams, and duns, but be on the look-out for a few damselflies and be ready to switch out to them for an exciting fishery when the hatch occurs.

Work the cover near any edges or cattails with a grasshopper or madam-x for larger trout.

One of the greatest things about October trout fishing is the lack of other anglers on the water. Our days can be very pleasant with mild temperatures. There is no need to rush to the boat ramp, and even the summertime jet-skiers and pleasure boats are gone.

The trout are still there and since they have had several months in the lake to change their diet, you will notice they taste much better. The fish are bigger and tend to bite better when it comes to fly-fishing.

So, if you prefer to use a fly rod, then grab your float tube or small car-topper boat, and head to a local lake. We only have until the end of the month for some of the best local lakes fishing.

By Hannah Pennebaker

What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think about Lake Washington? The I-90 bridge, SeaFair hydroplane races, and waterskiing are all popular answers. Lake Washington is the state’s second largest lake, right behind Lake Chelan, and spans about 22 miles long and 108 feet deep on average.

Fishing may not be the first thing that comes to mind about Lake Washington, but there are an astounding variety of fish in the lake, and October is a great time to target them.

Although houses and parks surround the lake, there are many boat launches and fishing docks as well. You may have heard that crappie, bass, cutthroat trout, and yellow perch inhabit the lake.

There are several bass fishing tournaments every year at Lake Washington, with 6 pounders being fairly common. Anglers of all ages line up at the many docks during the summer to catch buckets full of crappie and yellow perch.

You may have also heard about the coho and sockeye salmon fisheries in this lake. While the sockeye fishery has been closed down for years, the coho fishery is still going strong, with good returns predicted this year. Few anglers know about the Lake Washington kokanee fishery, and even fewer still take the time to figure out how to catch them in this enormous lake.

Intimidated by the size of the lake, many kokanee anglers will drive right past Lake Washington and go all the way up to Lake Samish or Lake Whatcom to fish. Don’t be daunted by this lake, it’s well worth taking the time to learn how to fish it.The fat, football shaped kokanee often measure up to 16 or 18 inches in size, and they have bright red meat that is hard to beat on the grill or smoker.

Fellow Northwest Fishing member and Lake Washington master Barry Dubnow often remarks that he would rather fish the lake and come home with 5 fat kokanee than drive all the way out to the Sound, then fight the wind and tides, only to have the chance at catching 2 fish at most!

Did I mention that the kokanee fishery is open year-round at Lake Washington? October is prime time for kokanee fishing, so don’t put the boat away for the season just yet. Let’s start off your Lake Washington journey with some tackle tips, then we’ll dive into locations and tactics.

While typical kokanee tackle works at Lake Washington, there are some strategies and tactics that can make your trip more successful. The kokanee fishery has its peculiarities, and it differs year by year, and day by day.

Short leaders seem to be the ticket, no matter what time of year. Mack’s Wiggle Hoochies, Brad’s Cut Plugs, and Mack’s Wedding Rings all work great. I’ve had days where Old Goat spinners and God’s Tooth spoons were all the fish wanted. Don’t forget to use scent, and plenty of it!

Tuna, herring, and anchovy are all tried and true. Leaded line works great early in the season, but as the fish push deeper due to the heat, you’ll likely need to use your downriggers. Pink is the old kokanee standby, and it works well, but color combinations with some contrast can do better on days when the bite is slow. Watermelon, pink and yellow, and orange and purple will all catch fish.

Like any good kokanee fishery, the key to success is having a few colors and scents of cured corn. Maggots will catch fish on some days, but corn seems to be the ticket. Keep in mind that no matter what you use, kokanee have soft mouths and tend to come off the hook, so take your time when playing your fish and have a net ready.

With miles of shoreline on both sides of Lake Washington, it can certainly be an intimidating lake to fish. How do we find the fish in such an enormous lake? The good news is that there are a few reliable spots around the lake where fish tend to congregate.

There are good kokanee spots throughout, so don’t feel like you need to run far from the boat launch. Those launching from Gene Coulon and Pacific Beach on the southern end of the lake tend to fish near the southern tip of Mercer Island. If you launch from Kenmore or the Kirkland Marina, you can fish in the cove near Juanita Beach Park and all alongside the shore near Kirkland.

Look for points and coves, and try to think about where the krill that kokanee feed on would tend to gather. Find those marks, and locate schools. Drop a pin where you get bites, and pay attention to what depth and speed you were fishing at.

Don’t be afraid to change up your speed or depth until you’ve figured out what the fish want that day. Remember to troll slow, and throw some s-turns and circles in!

Before you grab your poles and cooler, there are a few things to keep in mind while fishing Lake Washington. If you fish during the late summer or early fall, there is a chance you may hook onto a sockeye salmon. You’ll know when the sockeye are in the lake: they show up as large arches near the bottom.

Unfortunately, the kokanee tend to mix in with the sockeye, particularly in the late season when the water heats up and pushes them closer to the bottom. This creates a problem because sockeye retention is forbidden in the lake, and they do not tend to survive catch and release well.

If your rod slams down and starts peeling drag more than usual, be prepared to net the sockeye and release it as quickly as possible. But how do you tell the difference between a sockeye and a kokanee? After all, a kokanee is just a land-locked sockeye salmon.

Legally, any kokanee over 18 inches is a sockeye and must be released, so keep a measuring tape on your boat! Although there is a fish consumption advisory in Lake Washington for pikeminnow, bass, and cutthroat trout, there are no advisories for kokanee as of this writing.

Bad news for those fishermen who like to fish as many rods as possible; two pole endorsement fishing is also not allowed on Lake Washington. Keep these peculiarities in mind, and you’re sure to have an amazing day reeling in your kokanee limit at Lake Washington!

While it can be hard to find information on how to fish this lake, you can find all the reports made by local anglers by visiting our website at www.northwestfishing.net and clicking on the “latest fishing reports” button. Good luck, and I hope to see you out there!

By Mike Carey

Having moved recently from Washington to Montana, I find myself revisiting methods of getting on the water that I first learned when I moved to the Pacific Northwest. With less lakes close to me that lend themselves to launching my twenty-foot Thunderjet, I find myself going full circle back to my early roots.

When I moved out to Washington from Wisconsin, I lived in Spokane for a year, and during that time I took up the sport of fly fishing. The Spokane area has a wealth of smaller lakes and ponds well-suited to casting a fly for trout.

Because I was a renter, I wanted a way to get on the water that fit my lifestyle. Having a boat and trailer was not an option for me. I did the research and decided a float tube would be a good solution to getting on the water. It offered simplicity, ease of storage, and wouldn’t break the bank.

Back in the eighties the choices of float tubes were just starting to explode. Today, anglers have a huge selection of brands, styles, and price points to choose from.

Anglers that chose to access bodies of water in a float tube open up a world of possibilities to explore. And while most people think of fly fishing when it comes to float tubes, they are well-suited to be used for other species of fish.

Bass Angling

Bass angling from a float tube is a blast and tubes are an excellent choice for exploring waters that bass boats can’t go in. Tubes can even be used in saltwater angling, so long as an angler keeps safety in the forefront.

Certain rivers also lend themselves to float tubes, again with the caveat of the angler keeping safety first and foremost in mind.

Whatever type of fish you like to pursue, fishing from a float tube requires certain gear and set-ups to work. Let’s break down what you’ll need to get started.

First, let’s talk about the float tube itself. There are basically two shapes that you’ll see when you go shopping. The first is literally a round tube. The second is a u-shaped tube, open on one side. Across the top, connecting the two sides you’ll generally have a casting apron. A round tube will have this as well. 

The novice would be understandably confused when confronted with these choices. Both will get you on the water, so which is the right rig for you? I’ve fished out of both.

The pros and cons of each in my mind are as follows:

Round Tube Style

General less expensive, easier to breakdown and store, less prone to blowing around, lighter and easier to maneuverer. On the con side- smaller, so less storage capacity, harder to see on the water, less safe (generally 1-2 air chambers vs. 2-3 chambers).

U-shaped style

More storage for gear, more stable, tracks well, better visibility for boaters, safer (usually three air chambers), tend to be able to sit up higher for easier casting. On the con side- longer to set up, more storage space needed, more expensive.

For me the choice is easy, u-tube style all the way. What I like most about my rig is the ability to bring multiple rods, higher sitting posture, and overall safety. If I were hiking and wanted to do float fishing though, I would for sure pick a round style for weight considerations and ease of packing.

OK, you’ve settled on the type and pored through all the various brands, looking at specific features that you'd like to have on your tube. Some of the things I focused on were storage pockets, height and seat adjustment, ease of entry, three tubes for safety, and overall fit and finish.

Is the stitching tight and neat? Does the material seem of good quality? How about user reviews? YouTube is an excellent source of reviews that allow you to see what others have to say about the tube you’re considering.

Next on the agenda are the accessories you will need to purchase. Buying a tube is more than just hopping in and off you go. There are essential items you will need to have.

Fins

These are what you use to propel yourself through the water. Your legs will be in the water as you sit on the suspended seat. Kicking the fins will move you in the opposite direction of where you are facing and kicking one fin in one direction and the other in the other direction will cause you to turn.

It’s something that is easy to figure out and you’ll get the hang of it pretty quick.

Waders

Unless the water is very warm, you’ll want to wear chest waders, as from the waist down you’ll be wet. Waders can be neoprene or slip over clothes, whatever your preference. I like the pull-on type myself.

Water Shoes

You’ll want shoes on as they will provide better support for your fins. I get them one size larger to fit over my waders.

Life Jacket

Absolutely required in my opinion. I upgraded to the CO2 self-inflating style for comfort. The first time you get in the water and kickoff I can guarantee you’ll feel a bit apprehensive. It’s different from being in a solid boat. The life jacket gives me an extra level of reassurance and peace of mind.

Net

Hand-held style with a shock cord and clip to attach to your float tube is recommended.

Safety flag

If you’re fishing waters that have power boats, you want to do everything you can to be seen. An orange flag on a three-foot pole will help boaters see you better.

That said, if you’re fishing water that has power boats on it, I would urge you to stay close to the shoreline. Float tubes do not move fast, and you will not be able to get out of the way of a power boat bearing down on you.

Fishing on a small pond, whether for trout, bass, crappie, or whatever you pursue, is one of the most peaceful ways of fishing you can have.

The simplicity of the experience, not having to deal with all the issues that come with trailering a boat, and the quiet make for a relaxing day of fishing, not to mention, opens yourself up to new places to explore and enjoy!

And other ramblings...

Although there are a limitless variety of both the latest, tried and true kokanee lures hanging from the pegs at your local purveyor of tackle, many people choose to hit the water with at least a few home-tied lures. There is nothing wrong with ready tied kokanee lures and depending on the location, many shops will have a section catering to kokanee fishing. Even tackle stores far from a kokanee lake seem to have enough kokanee gear in stock to get you started. Here locally, Holiday Sports in Burlington has an aisle dedicated to kokanee lures, flashers, and lure components. So, with the variety of prepackaged kokanee lures available, why create your own?

I think that the answer is in kokanee fishing overall. Sure, they are a scrappy opponent, taste fantastic, and here in Washington most lakes have a 10 fish bonus limit. But more so, kokanee fishing is a mental game. A successful kokanee fisherman understands both the regional and seasonal adjustments required to consistently put fish in the net. Much of the fishery is spent massaging the grey matter while trying to figure out the trick of the day or even hour. Kokanee are very fickle and when you entice a bite on a lure you tied the whole experience is enhanced.

My personal history of fishing custom lures goes way back. I have always been an avid fly-tier and enjoy making one-offs or attractor flies. In my youth I used a black marker or nail polish to doctor up Oakie-Drifters and Steel-Lee spoons to enhance my steelhead offerings. I spent 20+ years in Southern California chasing anything that swims. I would often put a short notch in the body of small curly tail grubs when fishing for trout in the Sierra’s. The cut would give the tail action a little extra vibration that drove the trout nuts. When fishing the bays and nearshore I would modify my swimbaits with a marker or colored Sharpie. I even bought a mold to cast my own 4 and 5” swimbaits. I poured many crazy colors; I even modified the 5” mold to incorporate a scent chamber where I could squirt a bit of scent into the swimbait. These are just some of the ideas that constantly bubbled from my head on their way to the end of my line. So, why the effort when there is plenty of excellent gear on the market?

It’s that kokanee mental thing, catching a fish on something that you concocted. I think that with kokanee fishing, when you can consistently catch fish on a lure that you developed or modified, it just plain feels good! Hooked yet? How does one get started?

The answer may vary a bit depending on your goal. Do you want to invent the next hot Kokanee fly, design a new spinner blade, or just hobble together some random spinner blade/bead combos? Whatever your goal is, it may be a good idea to ease into your new interest; don’t go out and buy the stuff to make 250 kokanee lures. Start slow; a few spinner blades, beads and spinner clevises. If you’re a fly-tier, you probably already have the basics for any number of kokanee flies. Tying kokanee flies is fun and with some basic skills your imagination is your only limiting factor. 

Although I’m fortunate that I have a dedicated tackle workbench that is well stocked with just about everything needed for making lures, it’s not necessary. Your kitchen table, garage workbench, or even your lap while watching a game are perfect for making lures. I also carry a spinner/lure making Plano box on almost every fishing trip. One never knows when you’ll have to make mods or throw together an emergency lure. 

A problem I have is that I have kind of settled into a given group of custom spinner/bead combos and a handful of kokanee flies that consistently produce fish. Good or bad, not sure. I enjoy making lures but do I need more kokanee lures? No, probably not, but I’m sure that I’ll hatch a new batch of kokanee lures this year anyway. I may even explore the world of tube flies!

Where do you start? I think that before you spend any money, turn the trusty old trout tackle box upside down, give it a good shake and step back to see what you have. That big ball of old tangled up wedding ring spinners will be gold. Is there a handful of small spoons or old flies? Look in the tackle box and you’ll find an old rusty spoon stuck under one of the shelves. Pry it loose, maybe hit it with a drop or two of penetrating oil, and start dissecting your treasure pile. In the end it is likely that you’ll have quite a collection of small Colorado blades, wedding rings, beads, and a variety of components that may fuel your lure making passion all winter. 

You can also purchase the components through one of the many lure making supply websites or your local tackle shop, but be aware that many are either wholesale or cater to the bug-eye crowd. Size 1 and 2 spinner blades are hard to find. If you don’t find any at your local tackle shop, ask if they will make a wholesale purchase and then package in smaller quantities for retail sale. Beads? I think that every fisherperson has wandered down the bead isle at your local hobby store and thought “If I was a fish…” If you are anywhere close to Lacey, Washington pay a visit to Shipwreck Beads, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Believe me, as a tackle crafter you will be blown away!  

Now that you have a box full of doohickies to start making kokanee lures with, now what?

Regarding spinner blade clevises, try to find either the small plastic clevises or the spring type. The folded metal ones are great if you are making wire spinners but with manufacturing inconsistencies, they may abrade the light mono or fluorocarbon that you will be using as leader material. 

I own a couple different wire benders and have tried to fabricate wire kokanee spinners. Even using a very fine wire gauge, the spinners end up being too heavy and rigid. When making kokanee lures, you want the action of the lure to just sort of flutter or follow the attractor action. Wire spinners tend to just hang there.  

Line size? I used to believe a lighter leader line would draw more strikes than a heavier leader. Apparently in the underwater world of kokanee fishing I was WRONG, kokanee are not leader shy. In fact, there are a couple Washington State kokanee fisheries where I start with 20# fluorocarbon leaders and have no shortage of bites. I guess that it is mildly comical. Some days kokanee can be very boat shy, where they won’t bite anything running on less than a 70’ setback. Or crazy stuff; like a boat must be heading east instead of west with Jimmy Buffett, Son of a Sailor on the Bluetooth to get bit, but they have no problem smacking a spinner on an 8” hunk of 20-pound mono. That said, with few exceptions I tie my kokanee leaders on 12-14# fluorocarbon. 

Hook size and color are kind of a personal preference. Many of my kokanee lures are tied using size 4 or 6 black octopus style hooks. I typically tie a snelled rig with 2 hooks. With my standard rig the hooks are pretty close together but there are times where I want a trailer or stinger hook in the set up.  

Maybe a note about leader length; I tend to have spools of ready to go lures when I’m on a lake hunting kokanee. Typically, they are the correct leader length for that fishery. It is a good idea to have a handful of pre-tied leaders that haven’t been cut to length available. The thought is that you’ll be able to assemble your lure then set leader length as required quickly. An 8-10” is kind of a standard kokanee leader length, but sometimes the fish want something different.

Ok, you have a sizable collection of kokanee leaders, now what? How do you store them without ending up with a large cocoon of fluorocarbon? Speaking of…when I was a child, I used to have a recurring nightmare where I got caught in a spider web and then wrapped up for a later meal. In hindsight, maybe what I thought was a spider web was really kokanee leaders. I need to get organized… 

A couple of leader organization concepts are either sealable sandwich or snack bags, or, my favorite, the slotted foam tubes. If using the resealable bags, gently coil your kokanee leader and seal it in the bag. Store the sealed bags in something with a latching lid. With the slotted foam tubes, set the hook in the foam and wrap the leader securing the end in one of the slots. You can store the tubes on a rack, in a 3–5-gallon pail, or a 2-gallon resealable bag. I have found that using an empty 5 gallon to hang your leaders on during the day does wonders for keeping the boat organized as you cycle through set-ups. No point in becoming a fluorocarbon-spider meal, come up with an organizational plan that works for you and your boat.

Previously I mentioned that kokanee fishing is a mental game. As prepared as you are in the comfort of your living room, sometimes once on the lake you will need to think out of the box. My lure/spinner box allows me to tweak my presentations. I might add a couple beads and a second spinner blade, make a leader with a fly, then add spinner components. The box has small spin n glo floats, extra beads, various kokanee flies, wedding ring collars, some kokanee bugs, and a few other things to dress up your lure.    

Whether you are making spinners, tying flies or concocting something else, much of your kokanee lure making will be done at home. Enjoy the time and let your imagination go wild. Shoot, most small children love making lures, make it a family affair. Finally, lures made during the offseason should be stored in a cool, dark place. 

By Randy Castello

Kokanee fishing this spring? Then get the lead out; lead core line, that is. 

Where winter kokanee seems to be a very depth-oriented fishery, we are on the cusp of our popular spring/summer kokanee fishery. Downriggers rule for kokanee fishing, but on our boat we almost always put out 2 lead core line rigs before the downriggers are deployed. Using a properly set up lead core line rig gives the angler fairly accurate depth control without having to use downriggers.

Using the appropriate top shot and the following method for setting up your lead core line rigs, the angler can fish anywhere between the surface to about 30 or 40’ deep with some level of accuracy. To that note; while filming a Northwest Fishing segment, I snagged the bottom with a lead core line set up in 70’ of water while we were trolling in a straight line. Interesting, but how could that have happened?

Lake Southerland

We were trolling Lake Southerland on the Olympic Peninsula. We were metering a large body of kokanee at around 30-40’ in 70 feet of water. I ran out 2 ½ colors, or 60-70’ lead core line, plus my 60-70’ top shot while trolling at 1.0 mph. Not sure exactly what happened, but my guess is there was also an underwater current that was running with the boat. With minimal drag and water resistance on the line, it just sank to the bottom and I had to say goodbye to one of my favorite kokanee dodgers and custom kokanee flies. It was an unusual situation and you wouldn’t want to make a habit of trolling at 70 feet deep, but lead core line can run that deep.

What exactly is lead core line? It is a type of fishing line where there is an inner core of soft lead wire sheathed by an outer layer of braided fiber. Lead core line has been around since the 1940’s and is commonly used by Midwest walleye or Great Lakes salmon and steelhead trollers. The salmon guys use a technical approach using planer boards and multiple lines to target salmon on the great lakes.

Lead Line

Lead line isn’t as common here in the Pacific Northwest but it should be. Fortunately, our lead core line fishery doesn’t have to be technical, we can just clip on a dodger or lure and let out the appropriate number of colors. Lead core line is available at most of our local Northwest tackle shops. Lead core line comes in a variety of “pound test”, 12#, 15#, 18# and others. The line is your weight and eliminates the need for downriggers, planers, or separate weights. Lead core line comes dyed in contrasting colors. The color changes every 10 yards or about 30’. 

The following is solely my opinion and not supported by industry testing or maybe even your own experience. When fishing for kokanee, use the lightest test lead core line available. With the slower speeds used when we hunt kokanee, the test of the lead core line will not affect the sink rate; 15# lead core line will not sink faster than 12# lead line, in fact the 12# lead core line may sink further while trolling. The thinner diameter would result in reduced drag, and may allow gear to sink faster. Finally, 12# lead core line breaking strength is more than adequate for kokanee fishing. 

I think there is belief that lead core line setups are heavy and not really suited for the light tackle acrobatics common when kokanee fishing. For our lead core line rigs, we use standard 7 ½-8’ fiberglass kokanee rods and 150-300 (size ratings very greatly by manufacture) series round baitcasting reels. You really don’t need line counter reels because you will be counting colors; “hot bite at 1 ½ colors along the eastern shore…” My approach for spooling the reels is a bit different and is a phased setup that goes something like this:

On an empty reel with the same capacity as the reel you plan to fish the lead core line on, tape the end of the lead core line on the spool and load 3 colors of lead core line + 3-4’. Cut the lead core line, saving the balance of the filler spool.

Remove the actual lead core from 3-4‘of the loose end of the lead core line on the reel. Using a blood knot, Albright knot, a double uni knot, or other similar knot, tie 20# braid of your choice to the end of the stripped lead line. Then fill the spool with the 20# braid.

Here’s the tough part; you will need 2 empty spools or a second reel of the same type and size. The goal is to load the braid/lead line combo on your working reel braid first. When using the same reel or a reel with the same capacity as the reel temporarily holding the lead core line/braid combo, it is easy to just transfer reel to reel. Otherwise, you have to transfer to a spool, then to another empty spool, and then back on to the original reel.  

The reel is now loaded with 3 colors of lead core line on top. Strip the lead core out of 3 or 4 feet of the loose end of the lead core line. Using your favorite braid to mono (or in this case, favorite stripped lead line to mono) knot, tie on a 60’ 8-12# fluorocarbon top shot.  

That’s basically it. We use the lead core line setup almost exclusively for kokanee, so I just attach a small Duolock snap to the end of the fluorocarbon top shot to make changing dodgers easier. My reasoning for running only 3 colors of lead core line is that at 0.8-1.4 mph, 3 colors is all you need to fish to about 30-40’ deep.

In fact; as previously mentioned, using this approach I have snagged the bottom in 70 of water with just 2 1/2 colors of core lead line out. Running just 3 colors of lead core line with braid backing allows you to load a fair amount of backing on standard bait casting reels with the bonus of reducing the extra weight of additional colors of lead line.

Not always, but when fishing for kokanee, the lead core line rigs typically out fish any of the other rods on our boat. Believe it or not (you have to know me…), I have a theory about why the lead core line rigs are so fishy on our boat. I use a 60-70’ top shot, so even with just 1 color of lead core line out, the dodger/lure combo is running almost 100’ behind the boat.

Any boat-shy fish would have regrouped and forgotten about the big, noisy aluminum shadow that just passed overhead. Additionally, I know that I’m weird and overthink these things, but I think that the sonic vibration of the sheathed lead line moving through the water has some positive affect on a fishery. Something akin to a dog whistle: we can’t hear it, but they come running.

Whether or not the kokanee come running or swimming, lead core line is a deadly effective tool in our kokanee arsenal. It works equally well with the smaller dodgers, flashers, and gang trolls used for kokanee fishing. With the telltale thump, thump, thump at the rod tip, having at least one lead line rig in the water is a great indicator that your trolling speed is correct. 

Lead core line rigs are also an exceptional choice when pulling small stick baits or minnow type lures baits for cutthroat and rainbows. Just run ½ a color and get the frypan ready! Lead core line and stick baits go together like peas and carrots. The takedown when trolling stick baits on lead core line is surprisingly aggressive. The fish’s battle for freedom seems to magnify as it telegraphs up your lead line to your rod tip.

Once you set up a lead line rig or two, you’ll likely find that the lead core line rigs will be your go to kokanee rods. Lead core line is effective and straightforward to use when paired with the smaller dodgers, flashers, and gang trolls we use for kokanee fishing. Lead core line is equally effective with small spoons and stick baits for various trout species.

The initial investment may seem extravagant, but it’s still cheaper than a pair of downriggers. If you’re fishing from a kayak, canoe, inflatable, or even a drift boat without downriggers, your lead line rigs will be indispensable in your quest to do battle with a PNW silver football.

By Hannah Pennebaker

The salesman asked, “spinning or casting?” As we looked at the case full of shiny new fishing reels, I remembered what it was like to be a beginner fisherman who had no idea which reel was right for me. It can be a truly overwhelming, confusing mess if you don’t know what you’re looking for. My neighbors said they had been interested in fishing for years, but had no idea how to get started.

Rather than getting a dozen different rods and reels, they wanted a setup that would handle most of the types of fishing in the northwest. Intrigued by the challenge, I volunteered to take them to the local sporting goods store to pick out rods and reels. They had given me an idea of their budget, but that was it. They had no idea what type, brand, or size of reel they wanted. I walked them through the basics and let them test out several different reels within their budget.

They made their choices, and a week later we tested their setups out on surf perch in Ocean Shores. Not everyone has the luxury of an experienced fisherman to walk them through the ins and outs of fishing reels at the local sporting goods store. I’ll do my best to provide an in-depth guide to each reel type and their uses. We’ll talk about spinning reels, baitcasters, conventional reels, spincast reels, and mooching reels. Even experienced fishermen might find a new reel type to try out!

Spinning Reels

Spinning reels are probably the most common reel out there, and for good reason. They are extremely versatile, easy to take apart for maintenance, and often inexpensive. You can use spinning reels for just about any kind of fishing you can imagine. They are great for ultralight fishing tiny jigs for crappie as well as fighting giant tuna. If you intend to use them for saltwater fishing, make sure they are sealed, however. Saltwater is hard on reels, and you want to make sure it stays out of the inner workings of the reel.

There’s no need to find a left- or right-handed spinning reel, most have interchangeable handle sides. As I mentioned, spinning reels are extremely diverse. You can get heavy ones made out of metal that can withstand getting banged up on jetties, or you can get light, smooth ones that are perfect for finesse fishing, such as drop shotting. Do your research and compare reels at the store to find out your preference.

Higher end reels are going to generally have better drag systems and be constructed of more sturdy and lightweight materials such as aluminum. Consider the size of reel you need as well. 1000 is suited for crappie and other panfish. 2000 to 3000 is perfect for trout. 3000 to 5000 is great for salmon. 6000 to 10000 are used for crab snaring and tuna fishing. Spinning reels are a great all-around option with no major downsides. They are great for beginners and experts alike.
Baitcasters

The choice of many avid bass anglers, baitcasters are a bit more complicated to use than spinning reels, but offer many advantages to the serious angler. Your choice in reels is most likely going to come down to spinning or casting. With a baitcaster, you can precisely dial in your casts, since you can easily brake the spool with your thumb. This is handy for bass fishing, when you need to cast extremely accurately.

It’s also easier to use topwater lures, since you can slow down the lure and make it hit the water with less force. Baitcasters also excel at casting lures with little to no weight, such as wacky rigged senkos. Baitcasters also have a larger line capacity and tend to be lighter than comparable spinning reels. They are a popular choice for these reasons. The major downside to baitcasters is that if you don’t have the drag or barrel brake set properly, you can get a huge knot, or bird’s nest, while casting.

This happens when the spool spins faster than the line goes out, creating a bunch of slack in the line, which tangles and prevents you from letting line out. Make sure to get a few practice casts in and dial in your drag and barrel brake. You’ll need to do this any time you change the weight of your lure. Baitcasters also tend to be on the more expensive side.

They are not a great choice for beginners, since they require dialing in some settings and can cause annoying backlashes, but baitcasters are still a great option for experienced anglers. You can use them for trolling for trout, salmon, and walleye, as well as casting for bass, surf perch, and bottomfish. If you intend to use them for trolling, baitcasters with line counters are key!

Conventional Reels

The difference between conventional reels and baitcasters isn’t always clear. Some argue that they’re one and the same, others say the difference is that one has a button and the other does not. Typically, baitcasters will engage the drag and start reeling when you reel the handle after casting, but a conventional reel will not, and must be manually flipped to start reeling in line.

Conventional reels are a type of open-face reel that is simple, reliable, and tough. They may or may not have a levelwind. Some fishermen use them for casting, but most Northwesterners use them for trolling. They have a powerful drag system and can handle heavy weights, but they’re often heavier than spinning or casting reels.

Spincast Reels

If you grew up fishing with a Barbie or Spiderman pole, chances are it had a spincast reel on it. These reels are similar to baitcasters in that you simply push a button to free spool and cast your line, but the spool is encased in a cover. This can be both a blessing and a curse, because if your kid tangles their line, it’s difficult to fix. However, spincast reels are very light and simple.

Drag systems involve simply adjusting a dial above the button. Spincast reels can help kids learn to cast, since all they have to do is press and release a button. This is why they’re commonly called “buttoncasters”. They are affordable and easy to find at your local sporting goods store.

Mooching Reels

Mooching reels are a very niche type of reel, but they’re a ton of fun to use! They are typically used for salmon fishing in saltwater. You can either use them for mooching, as their name suggests, or for trolling. You can definitely get away with using a spinning reel, baitcaster, or conventional reel for mooching or trolling, but there’s something special about using a mooching reel. When you’re on a big fish that’s pulling drag, the handles will spin backwards and rap you on the knuckles if you don’t get your hand off them quickly enough!

They are commonly referred to as “knucklebusters” for this reason. Don’t let that scare you, though. They have a 1:1 gear ratio, so you’ll truly feel the fight of the fish. You’ll feel every headshake and run as you battle the fish to your net. Knucklebusters have a small but devoted following in the Pacific Northwest. Match them with a 9 to 10 ft rod with moderate to heavy action, and you’re in business. Give them a try and you’ll be hooked!

Whether you pick up a spinning reel, baitcaster, conventional reel, spincast, or mooching reel, having fun out on the water is the most important thing! May is a great time to try out most fisheries in the northwest. Get out there and enjoy the water!

While frigid temperatures and dustings of snow mark the end of the open water fishing season for some, it signals the beginning of another exciting ice fishing season for others.

Previously a sport dominated by anglers in the Midwest and Canada, ice fishing in the inland Pacific Northwest has boomed in recent years thanks to its reputation as a fun winter activity for the entire family, as well as the vast number of accessible lakes in the region.

Northwest lakes offer plenty of hard water game fish opportunities, including yellow perch, walleye, and other schooling fish, but there’s also plenty of trout species ripe for the catching — and these salmonids should be at the top of any ice anglers’ target list. Ice fishing for trout, however, is different than other species, but it can be just as plentiful.

Using the correct gear when ice fishing for trout

While not impossible to use when ice fishing, a typical 6- to 8-foot trout rod is likely to be a nuisance relatively quickly on the ice, as you’ll be sitting on a bucket most of the day. Instead, an affordable, 30- to 36-inch ice fishing rod with light- to medium-action is plenty sufficient for nearly any type of ice fishing adventure.

Spool your spinning reel with 4-pound fluorocarbon line and you’ll be in good shape for anything that bites, but especially trout. If you’re concerned about your line, there’s many fluorocarbon options that are designed for ice fishing that will handle the conditions better, but that’s simply personal preference.

In addition to your rod, reel, and line, you’ll want all the ice fishing staples, including an ice auger, as well as a bucket, a rope, ice scoop, warm, layered clothing, and a sled to tow it all onto the ice with you — or, even better, a snow machine.

Locating trout through the ice in early winter

To catch the fish, you first need to find the fish. On ice, that can be tricky, but trout, including rainbow, cutthroat, and browns, all cold-water species, are predictable in the winter months.

Trout crave cool, highly oxygenated water. Thus, as the lake turns over, they move into cold, shallow water, while panfish, including yellow perch, evacuate the shallows and head into deeper drop-offs. The trout’s migration into shallow water is ideal for ice anglers, as you can target them in flats as shallow as 4- to 8-feet. This is ideal for early season ice fishing, as it’s just short walk from the shoreline, an area that typically features the safest ice on the lake.

Experienced ice anglers will troll during the open water season to scout areas on the lake that will inhabit trout in the winter months. To locate these trout-rich areas, use electronic depth finders to look for areas with large, shallow flats, between 4- and 20-feet, and drop-offs adjacent to weed lines. It’s common for trout to cruise these drop-off edges and seek forage along the weed lines.

Once you’ve settled on a spot to fish for the day, it’s time to start drilling. Trout, though, are easily spooked, therefore moving around and drilling holes throughout the day can be counterproductive. Instead, pre-drill your holes early in the morning. Using your ice auger, begin drilling holes close to shore in 3- to 6-feet of water, drilling into deeper water every 5- to 10-feet until you see weeds. Once you’ve found the weed line, begin pre-drilling holes from the weed line into deeper water in a Z-pattern to cover more ice.

If the lake you’re fishing doesn’t feature many weeds, you’ll instead look for large, flat regions with muddy lake floors. Use the same technique, drilling in a Z-pattern, into deeper water, as later in the day, the trout will become less active and move into these areas, suspending themselves in the middle of the water column chasing small prey.

Selecting the best tackle for targeting trout through the ice

Trout, being the apex predator in most lakes, will cruise the weed lines looking to aggressively find any snack available to them, thus it’s imperative that you have reactionary type baits that emulate a dying baitfish to entice them to bite.

Small spoons, such as the Mack’s Lure Sonic BaitFish (1/16 oz. to 1/6 oz.) and the Mack’s Lure Hum Dinger (1/8 oz.), tipped with artificial pink maggots, meal worms, or corn will do the trick — and don’t be afraid to add scent to the lures and bait as well. When aggressively jigged, these spoons will create flutter and vibration, attracting trout from further distances.

If you’re not having luck with spoons, it likely means the trout aren’t as aggressive. Instead, use the smallest bait possible to reach your target depth. Try a Mack’s Lure Glo Hook (#6), tipped with maggots, corn, or meal worms, and a little split shot to get your presentation to the bottom.

Don’t be afraid to mix up your colors often. Begin with natural colors, including silvers and whites, but be quick to shift to brighter colors, including chartreuses, reds, and oranges if they’re not taking your offering. The trout will tell you what they want, so be versatile in your tackle selection and change often if they’re simply not biting.

Effective jigging techniques for targeting trout through the ice

When fishing closest to the weed line, make sure your presentation is hugging the bottom, typically 8- to 12-inches from the lake floor. Drop to the bottom, then a couple cranks up and you’re in the strike zone.

There’s no jigging cadence that’s tried and true. Really, it’s whatever you feel comfortable with. One thing that is for certain, however, is that your jigging cadence needs to be consistent and in rhythm. If you’re erratic, the trout will have a tough time attacking your presentation — and we’re in the business of making it easier for trout to bite your lure, not harder.

The only exception to rhythmic jigging is, occasionally, dropping your presentation to the bottom to drum up some silt and create a disturbance. Trout, in shallower water, are constantly feeding on prey that burrow in the sand, thus anything out of the ordinary is sure to catch their eye, especially from further distances. Alternatively, on really slow days, you can try dead sticking, just a few inches off the bottom, meaning you’re doing nothing with your presentation (tipped with a worm or bait) except holding it still. 

Later in the day, when the trout move deeper, you’re going to follow them, as you’ve already pre-drilled holes in this deeper water. Fish to these suspended trout, at least six feet from the top of the water column, using the same, rhythmic jigging cadence as before.

Practice safety at all times when ice fishing

While ice fishing is a perfect activity for the entire family, it can quickly go badly if you’re not prepared. Use common sense, dress warm and, especially early in the season, always check the ice conditions before venturing out. To do so, drill your first hole, then measure its thickness. Ice 4-inches and thicker is safe for small groups, but be sure to spread out.

At the end of the day, just being out on the ice with friends and family is a blast. Hooking into some trout on super light gear, however, is the prize. Hopefully, by using the tips here, you’ll be well on your way to a successful ice fishing season targeting trout.