fishing gear

While I know that our local lingcod fishery closes June 15^th hopefully this will be available for the last few days of the 2023 lingcod season. If not, it will give you a head start on next year’s lingcod plans. With the exception of the Marine Area 12 (Hood Canal) lingcod closure, Washington State WDFW Marine Areas 5-Marine Area 13 are open for lingcod fishing from May 1st through June 15^th. It’s a short fishery managed with a slot limit. You can only retain 1 fish that is 26-36” long each day. With the slot limit, legal fish are hard to come by after the opener. Lingcod is excellent table fare with many preparation options. Sooo, what the heck is a lingcod?

Lingcod or Ophiodon Elongatus. They are not actual cod, but a species of greenling. Lingcod are eating machines and can weigh over 80 pounds and tape out at 60” long. They have a 5-gallon bucket for a mouth with 18 needlepoint teeth to make sure their intended meal stays put (handling, never put your hand or fingers in their mouth or try to pick one up via hand in the gills). They are a very cool-looking warrior of the depths. Their color varies but all have clusters of darker colored and copper-colored patches.

Unlike humans, male lingcod mature at around 2 years old and 20”. The female lingcod mature at 3-5 years and 24-30”. Us mortals are just the opposite; females mature earlier than men and like myself, some of us never mature beyond 12 or so. Initially, both male and female lingcod have similar growth rates and grow very quickly. At around 4 years old the female lingcod growth rate outpaces the males.

Lingcod spawn December-March along reefs and rock outcroppings during periods of strong tidal flows and wave action. The eggs are deposited and fertilized in nests in crevasses in the rock. After spawning the males protect the nests until they hatch in 5-11 weeks.

Lingcod are very vulnerable while the eggs are developing. The males are very aggressive and will attack anything considered a threat to the nest. Many become prey while guarding the nests, leaving the nest vulnerable to predators. An unprotected nest is usually decimated in a day or so. The male lingcod is essential for successful spawning.

Although some migration has been observed, generally lingcod stay in the same location most of their lives. They are typically structure-oriented and found in 30-300 feet of water. However on Mother’s Day a few years back I caught a lingcod while flyfishing from the beach (not as bad as it sounds. I was doing a big brunch on a beach and had everything set up and ready to go. Planned or otherwise I had some time before everyone arrived. I know, I know; I still had a rod and gear with me on Mother’s Day…)

Fishing for lingcod in the straights, the San Juans, and inner Puget Sound can be a very rewarding adventure. Partially because once you find your rockpile it can hold fish for years. Lingcod can be found along any surface visible structure and here locally lingcod opportunity abounds. I like to meter around to find isolated rockpiles and then mark them on my electronics (note to self, don’t try to declutter your chart while not paying attention to what you’re doing. Just recently I deleted most of my spots accidentally. I think that I was in tears…) Having a secrete rockpile can make you a lingcod Zen Master, The Ling Whisperer! 

Once you have figured out where to fish, now what? Lingcod fishing can be either a put-the-rod-in-a-holder passive affair or a highly technical means of working an artificial bait along the edge of a reef. My approach is somewhere in the middle. Typically, I actively fish artificial baits using a less aggressive drop-and-retrieve method. More on that later…

Bait or artificials? Both work and lingcod are suckers for just about anything that passes in front of them. One of the biggest lings I have ever caught was a massive beast that had latched on to a smaller ling that had inhaled a homemade copper pipe jig. That said; bait can be deadly here in Puget Sound. Although herring or squid work sanddabs are the way to go. 

Sanddabs are easy to find, catch, and work well dead or alive. A simple way to keep them mostly alive is to keep them in a salt brine in a cooler. A couple of bags of ice, salt water, and an extra cup of rock salt. Not always but it seems that when you take the sanddabs out of the brine, they perk up a bit. It may be a suspended animation thing, like an old horror movie “The Attack of the Killer Sanddabs”…

I like to fish sanddabs on a 2-6 ounce painted jig head and fish them like an artificial bait. They also fish well on a dropper loop rig or a hard tie heavier mooching rig. If fishing them on the mooching rig, hook the lead hook through the mouth, out through the lower jaw then about 2/3rds of the way down the sanddab’s body the trailing hook just under the skin on the dark side of the fish. Insert the hook, point towards the tail, and loop it back out letting it just dangle along the back of the sanddab. Keep a solid hand on the rod. When a lingcod sets its sights on having a sanddab snack, the takedown can be ferocious. 

My favorite way to fish lings is with a large curly tail or paddle-tail type swimbait on a jig head but any artificial bait works. I have caught lings using pipe jigs, flutter jigs, and a variety of commercially molded baits, including molded sanddabs. Fished correctly the artificials drive lingcod nuts. The picture of the big ling was caught in Rosario Strait by James Vermeer using a home-poured bait. 

Actually, a great story; he used a kid's toy plastic shark to create a mold and then poured the lure. After a few testing modifications, he ended up with a heavy-bodied lure that was balanced in the water and sent out all kinds of “come-eat-me” vibrations. More importantly, James knows how to fish lings. 

I was motoring past in the workboat and noticed a guy in a small skiff fishing lingcod. I pulled the throttle back and watched the show. He clearly knew how to properly fish lings on artificial baits. Not long after I stop, he goes bendo and had on what looked to be a serious lingcod. 10 minutes later he and the fish were posing for a picture or two. 

”Properly fish lings on artificial baits”, what the heck am I talking about? Let’s break artificial baits down into 3 categories; pipe jigs, dart type jigs, and soft baits. They each fish a little differently

Pipe jigs should be fished straight up and down in deeper water. (Unless you are fishing for lings in WDFW Marine Area 4 East-Marine Area 11 and Marine Area 13 where fishing for bottomfish is prohibited in water deeper than 120’). Meter around and find a deeper reef. Either anchor or set up a drift along the side of the reef or from the high point towards deeper water. It doesn’t hurt to do a couple of test drifts with your chart trails on to see how you’re drifting. Once on station let your pipe jigs fall to the bottom (it helps to make sure they are attached to your line), touch bottom, and then wind up a few cranks. Basically, you want to fish just off the bottom while occasionally bouncing the jig off the bottom. Don’t erratically jerk your rod tip up and down. For lings, you want a slow deliberate motion. If you go herky-jerky you just attract rockfish. 

When fishing dart type or flutter jigs think salmon. Free spool to the bottom of your intended meter mark and stop. Slowly lift your rod tip about a foot and then quickly drop it again. The bite will almost always be as the jig is fluttering down. That said; I have caught a few lings casting and retrieving a Point Wilson Dart. One of my biggest San Juan lings chased down and inhaled a jig right at the boat up at Point Lowrance in the San Juans. 

Fishing soft baits is my favorite way to catch lingcod. There is something addictive about the takedown when you are actively working on an artificial bait for lings. My routine is to position the boat then drop your offering via free spool until it hits bottom and reel up a crank or 2. Then kind of become one with the rod and allow the current to work the bait. Slowly lifting the rod tip or letting out line here and there to avoid snagging the bottom while keeping in the zone. 

Lingcod are pretty hardy fish but still be respectful and quickly release any fish not going in for a ride in your fish box. To preserve the table quality, make sure to break a gill raker with dikes or pliers and/or make an undercut at the base of its tail to bleed the fish. Lingcod freeze very well when vacuum bagged and is great for a quick healthy meal. 

Start planning for next year’s Month of Ling. Take some time learning to catch sanddabs and study a chart for your select area. Look for underwater rockpiles, structures, or hard ledges and mark them to explore next season. Stock up on gear well before the May 1^st opener and may your fish box be full in 2024. 

Although this time of year can seem low on fishing opportunities, there is one fishery that I always look forward to. The Cowlitz River smelt fishery is a truly special opportunity. It's unique for several reasons. One, you don't even use a fishing pole! Two, you usually have less than a week's notice when it opens. Three, it's only open for a few hours at a time.

Thankfully, there is a generous 10-pound limit, and you don't need a fishing license to participate. Smelt are absolutely delicious when fried or smoked. They're very oily fish, and their meat is soft and sweet. If you aren't interested in eating them, they make great cut bait or crab bait. Interested in trying the fishery? Let's dive into how and where to get them.

Thankfully, the gear needed for smelt dipping is pretty minimal. You will need a bucket to hold your catch, a scale, and a long-handled net. I typically use a 5-gallon bucket, but you can get away with using a smaller bucket if that's what you have. The limit is 10 pounds, which WDFW says is typically a quarter of a 5-gallon bucket. It's a good idea to carry a scale though, in case you get checked by a game warden.

The most important advice I can give you is to make sure your net has a long handle and fine mesh. A typical landing net won't do the job. The handle isn't long enough to scoop down to the bottom of the river, and your smelt will slip through the wide mesh in the net. Here's another word of advice--get your net during the off-season and don't wait until the next dip is announced. Sporting goods stores can and do sell out when a smelt dip is announced, so if you wait, you might have to drive far to get one, or you can make your own.

If you're interested in participating in the next smelt dip, you're probably wondering where to go. During the last dip, the boundaries were between the Tenant Way Bridge and the mouth of the North Fork Toutle River. This stretch of the Cowlitz River has ample public shore access. You can find a map of popular spots on WDFW's smelt web page, or strike out on your own (but be mindful of private property). You can expect to have company, so it's a good idea to show up an hour or so early to stake out your spot. Longview, Kelso, and Castle Rock all have gas stations and restrooms. There's a dock at the boat launch in Castle Rock, if you don't want to get your feet wet or risk falling in the river while navigating the steep riverbank.

Once you're at the river, pick your spot. As previously mentioned, riverbanks can be steep, not to mention thorny. Be careful not to trip or slide- no fish is worth a fall in the river! You can wear a life vest to be extra cautious and put life vests on any kids joining the adventure. If the fish are in, one spot is as good as any. Dip your net in the river and sweep through it with one fluid motion.

You want to go quickly enough so that the fish can't swim out of the net. You should be able to feel them hitting your net. Don't be afraid to drag against the bottom if you need to. Resist the temptation to net as far away from you as you can. Sometimes the fish are right up against the bank! Deposit your catch carefully in the bucket and keep weighing them to ensure you don't exceed your 10-pound limit. Like any other fish, put your catch in an iced cooler on the way home so that their meat stays fresh and firm.

I'll leave you with some interesting facts about Pacific Smelt. Just like salmon, they hatch in rivers and spend their lives at sea. They return to their home rivers to spawn when they're between 2 to 5 years old. Again, just like salmon, they're an oily fish. They're about 15% oil! They're also called “candlefish” because they will catch on fire if you hold them up to a lighter.

Sadly, they're considered an endangered species. Around the mid 90's, their populations began to sharply decline. WDFW closely monitors their return numbers and determines if they are healthy enough to support a recreational fishery. This year, we were lucky enough to get not one, but two smelt openers. The reason that our smelt fishery is so limited is to protect their sensitive populations. They are susceptible to overfishing, so to ensure that future generations get to enjoy this fishery, it is tightly regulated and monitored.

Be sure to follow the rules! Don't exceed your 10-pound per person limit, and only net the section of the river that is open. Carry a watch or check your phone so that you don't start dipping until the time WDFW specifies. Most importantly, have fun!

It’s hard to think of fishing for most of looking at iced in boat ramps and/or iced over lakes but the ice will likely thaw by the beginning of March and you’ll have some great opportunities for fishing when it does.  Looking for some early-season trout and walleye ideas?  Here’s a few for you:

LATE WINTER WALLEYE:  

The Columbia River is the place to be in March for walleye as the big females get ready to spawn. In fact, this is the time of year to land a true trophy walleye. Traditionally, the bigger females have been targeted near the Tri-Cities but quality walleye can be found in The Dalles and John Day pools as well the Upper Columbia near Hydro Park in East Wenatchee, and in Rufus Woods Reservoir as well as the upper end of Lake Roosevelt.   

When it comes to catching March walleye, try trolling a small spinner worm harness like a Mack’s Lure Slow Death Rig at a very slow speed (around 1 to 1.2 MPH).  Once you find a school of fish you can jig for them.  In addition to jigging for walleye with soft plastics on jig heads, you can also use metal blade baits or vertical jigs like a Mack’s Sonic Baitfish.  

QUINCY LAKES TROUT FISHING:

The Quincy Lakes trout opener on March 1^st is either a boom or a bust depending on the amount of ice remaining on this chain of lakes between Quincy and George which lie in a sizeable state wildlife area.  The most popular lakes to fish are Quincy and Burke Lakes, which are both well-stocked with rainbow trout.  There are also several small walk-in lakes southwest of these bodies of water that are stocked with smaller numbers of trout but which receive less pressure.

The opener often finds crowds of both day-anglers and overnight campers congregated close to the shore of the main two trout lakes, many of them in a festive mood, especially when early spring weather and sunshine is present. That isn’t always the case though, The Quincy Valley Chamber of Commerce, which has hosted an annual trout fishing derby with prizes for kids and adults in the first half of March, is hedging their bets this year (as to whether the lakes will be ice-free) and will wait until March 22^nd and 23^rd to hold their event at Burke and Quincy Lakes.

TUCANNON LAKES TROUT:

The Tucannon Lakes, nestled in the W.T. Wooten Wildlife Area and the Blue Mountains of Southeastern Washington, offer another March destination.  Speaking with Kim Andersen at The Last RV Resort (the closest resort to these lakes), I learned two small lakes (Blue and Spring) are open all year and have historically received plants of 24,000 and 15,000 trout respectively.  

Four additional lakes open on March 1^st (Deer, Watson, Rainbow, and Big Four), though Anderson says since the area flooded a few years ago, Big Four Lake doesn’t really exist as such and should not be considered as a viable option.  Asked which lakes fish best in early March, Anderson said Spring, Deer, Rainbow, and Watson Lakes all fish well when ice-free. 

The Last RV Resort near Pomeroy has cabins, RV, and tent sites available along with a coffee bar. Anderson says they still have openings available for the popular March 1^st opening day of trout fishing. www.thelastresortrv.com

LAKE LENORE TROUT:

If you are looking for some big trout to catch and release, consider a trip to the Columbia Basin north of Soap Lake and cast a line into Lake Lenore.  You’ll find Lahontan cutthroat trout here, a species native to Nevada that was stocked in this very alkaline lake decades ago by WDFW.  The trout commonly weigh two to three pounds but five to six-pound fish are not uncommon and there’s always the possibility of landing a ten-pound trout.  

This was a very popular spring fishery in the 1990’s and early years of the 21^st Century.  Unfortunately, poaching efforts knocked down this fishery.  Why anyone would want to take home fish that likely taste like soap, I do not know but enough people did that the fishing suffered.

Fortunately, the fish population has rebounded but despite that, the word hasn’t gotten out to most anglers and this place fishes under the radar.  It is a selective fishery lake, where only single barbless hooks are allowed.  If you are in a boat, you can only use an electric motor and your fishing net has to be knotless.  

If you do decide to take a fish home you only get to take one and it must measure at least 18 inches long.  There is plentiful shoreline access along the east side and at the north end of the lake though there are a couple of areas closed (marked by signage) by the inlet stream and irrigation pumping station towards the upper end.

Lake Lenore is a wonderful place to fish.  The scenery of sagebrush and basalt cliffs is pleasant and the chorus of geese, ducks, chukar, and other wildlife add to the experience.  The best times to fish Lake Lenore are in the spring (March and April) and again in the fall (late September through November).

In the spring, most of the trout are found at the northern end of the lake, cruising the shoreline in depths as shallow as three feet as they prepare to spawn.  Fly fishing anglers target them from shore or float tubes and pontoon boats.  The “go to” offering is a small black chironomid, fished under a strike indicator, in sizes 12 to 20.  

Hardware anglers have success as well.  You can use a spinner but you’ll likely be frustrated by all the grass floating in the water which limits the effectiveness of the spin itself.  Instead, consider using a spoon.  I’ve had good luck with Luhr Jensen Krocodile lures in 1/8^th to ¼ ounce size.  Hammered brass and orange as well as a frog-colored pattern have both worked well for me.

In the fall, the fish will be found further to the south, especially around the islands in the lake and casting or trolling for them from the boat can net you and your partner up to 35 fish a day if fortune smiles upon you.  We’ll save that fall conversation for later though, because right now, it’s March and we’ve got fish to catch!

John Kruse – www.northwesternoutdoors.com and www.americaoutdoorsradio.com

Winter Steelhead fishing… where do we start? First off, winter Steelhead fishing in Washington is unique and different from many of our other fisheries based on one simple fact, the weather. The winter generally brings cold, dark, and wet days which makes this type of fishing a bit more extreme. So then, why do we do it? Great question, but the bigger question is, why would we not?

There is an allure to Steelhead fishing that is hard to describe. I know that there is nothing that I would rather do. On top of inclement weather, Steelhead are more elusive than our migrating salmon and less predictable, making them more difficult to catch. Changes in river conditions during the wet, winter months are constant, forcing us to drop what we are doing and go when the conditions are best.

We also need to change up our techniques based on river conditions. One more thing worthy of mention is that there are limited hatchery program opportunities left, so much of our Steelhead fishing is the catch and release of wild fish. I find that wild fish tend to fight better and to me, there is nothing quite like battling an amazing fish and holding onto its tail as it builds up the energy to swim off to where it came from.

For those of you interested in winter Steelhead, I would like to share some information that might help in getting started. I am only sharing what I have learned but I hope that the information is useful. Also, if you have followed my articles in other outdoor magazines, then you probably know that I spend a lot of time fishing with professional guides all over the Pacific Northwest. This helps as I can share a perspective that has been obtained across many experiences and years of fishing.

Most of my Steelhead fishing has been done in the rivers in NW Washington, SW Washington, and the Washington Coast, specifically Forks and the Quinault and Queets Rivers within the reservation. There are so many options available, so I recommend that you start with a river that is near you and learn a little about it…the rules, the opportunities, and most importantly, some good guides who know the river well. I encourage you to spend the money to fish with a guide to learn what works and understand how to target fish in different conditions. Know that every guide has a different opinion and approach, so try a few to gain a broader perspective.

Once you have spent time on the river with a guide or two, you can focus on the gear that you need. Believe me, you can spend a lot of money quickly so make sure that you get it right. To start, you should have a nice pair of waders and wading boots and a waterproof jacket. Getting cold and wet will ruin your day in a hurry. Next, and just my opinion, focus on 2-3 techniques that you would like to try and focus on the gear needed for those specific approaches. I find that it is best to master a few techniques before expanding your toolkit.

There are many popular techniques for catching Steelhead such as casting or trolling plugs from the bank or shore, throwing spoons and spinners, float fishing beads, bait, jigs and other offerings, drift fishing or bobber dogging beads, yarnies, bait and other offerings, and much more. So many different options to choose from and they all work.

If had to pick 2-3 techniques, here is what I would do. It’s hard to choose because they all work and some work better at certain times and under certain conditions. I like to float fish maribou jigs and soft plastic worms on jig heads, and I really like to float fish beads. My float fishing approach for beads combines a float, inline weight, a long leader with some split shot in the middle, and a soft bead that bounces along the bottom. Aside from these techniques, I love to throw spoons and spinners. If I am fishing from a drift boat as opposed to bank fishing, I like to troll plugs in long stretches of slower-moving, deep water.

If I was to start fresh right now, I would have a lot less gear in my garage. Now there are many different types of rods and some work better for certain techniques. If I had to pick one rod to use for multiple techniques, I would go with a 9’6”, 6-10# to 8-17# rated spinning rod with a 30/3000 or 35/3500 size spinning reel. I prefer a bit lighter rod to maximize sensitivity and have found that 30# braid works best for my mainline along with a 10-15’ bumper of fluorocarbon. This is a great all-around rod and reel setup that will allow you to employ most of the methods that I listed above.

If you want to focus on float fishing, I recommend a 10’6” rod that is designed for this purpose. The added length really helps you mend your line easily. For “old school” drift fishing, I prefer a one-piece 7’6” rod but most of the time I am bobber dogging, which is simply drift fishing with the addition of a float/bobber to pull your gear naturally along the bottom and downstream. A 9’6” rod works great for bobber dogging, and you can easily break it down to fit inside your car.

Once you have your clothing, rod, and reel, you can focus on terminal tackle. For this, I recommend going to your local tackle shop as opposed to a “big box” store. You will get valuable advice that will help you to purchase the best gear. Also, lean on what you learned from the guides you fished with, and make sure to take pictures of their gear setups and rigging when you fish with them. At this point, you’re going to need a collection of swivels, bobber stops, small beads for your bobber stop, and leader material, generally fluorocarbon. Note that if you don’t want to tie your leaders immediately, you can purchase them pretied.

It’s also a good idea to have a selection of hooks in sizes from #4 to 1/0 or even 2/0 in some cases. Purchase a box of soft beads in a variety of sizes and colors, some maribou jigs in pink/cerise/orange combinations and the red/white/black nightmare patterns, as well as 1/8 or 1/4oz jig heads (I prefer white) and some 3.5” plastic/rubber worms. Don’t forget a selection of weights. I am a big fan of the stainless-steel weights from Dave’s Tangle Free. You have enough gear to get you through a winter of learning and chasing Steelhead. Between maribou and worm jigs and beads, you can fish in just about any condition. It would not be a terrible idea to have a few spinners and/or spoons as well. They are fun to toss when nothing else seems to be working.

Now, you have learned the basics from one or more guides, you have learned how to fish a specific river system, you have purchased a handful of the gear that you need and the time has come to go out and give it a shot. Believe me, you don’t have to go buy a drift boat to fish. There are plenty of opportunities to wade and bank fish. Also, I encourage you to continue to fish with guides if you want to boat fish or make a friend who has one. Believe it or not, many fishermen who own boats are looking for fishing buddies, so join a Facebook group to make some friends. 

Winter Steelhead fishing is an amazing pastime and until you have spent some time doing it, you really don’t realize how special it is. One warning, don’t expect to go out and catch a Steelhead on your first trip. They are called a fish of 10,000 casts for a reason. I can say that they are very special fish, and you will never forget your first, or for that matter, any Steelhead that you catch. Now, get out there and good luck.

After our very cold January followed by the big thaw that brought us almost summer-like weather, more than our toes have thawed out. The average kokanee-obsessed sportsman is suddenly waking up with thoughts turning to spring kokanee fishing, kokan-energy.

If so, plug in and use your kokan-energy to get ready for this year’s kokanee adventures. Spend the time making sure everything is in tip-top condition. Check out your boat, gear, and tackle while developing a game plan for filling the freezer with mini sockeye. Let me share some ramblings that may help you prepare for this year’s Kokanee crusades.

If you store your boat outside and are a seasonal user you have some work cut out for you. Garage-stored or year-round boaters have a task or two to attend to also and now is the time to get at it. The number 1 most important item on your pre-season chores list is your fuel system. Even if you used a fuel conditioner or stabilizer in your portable tanks get rid of last year’s fuel. Pour any gas from the portable tanks into the lawnmower gas can. I have nothing against lawn mowers but a little SeaFoam will cure many small engine fuel-related ailments that you don’t want to deal with on the lake. 

For built-in tanks, hopefully last season you treated the fuel with each fill up. Even so, it is a good idea to drain the fuel filter bowl and replace the fuel filter/water separator cartridge as appropriate. If your rig (built-in tank or portable) is not equipped with a fuel/water separator, now is a great time to install one.   

Check all fuel lines and fuel line fittings. Replace anything that is brittle, cracked or otherwise damaged. If you are a seasonal user and your boat was winterized this task is much easier. Next check fluid levels for your hydraulic steering, power tilt/trim units, lower unit/gearcase and your 4-stroke motor oil. Use your motor manufacturer's recommended products and do not top off or mix the various products.

Pull the propeller and check the shaft for fishing line or damage. Remember to lay all the nuts, washers, sleeves, or adaptors out in the same order they came off the shaft. This makes reassembly much easier and remember that most thrust washers have a right way and a wrong way to install them. Look at the propeller, if the blade edges are showing an excessive number of nicks/dings, now might be the time to send it off to be rebuilt. Even slightly damaged blades will affect performance and running a boat with severely damaged blades can lead to all kinds of shaft/seal problems down the road.

Each spring, be sure to top off the batteries with distilled water. It’s a good idea to get them on the appropriate charger for your battery type and bring them up to a full charge. If you find corrosion on the terminals remove the battery from the boat and clean it off with a mild solution of baking soda and water. Once everything is clean, it is also a good idea to use one of the various corrosion guard offerings. As long as you have 12-volt wiring on the brain you should also go through the rest of your electrical installation and look for loose connections and damaged wiring. 

Mice and other rodents can cause a lot of damage during the off season. Check all the switches and breakers to make sure they are working. Then hook up the fish finder, VHF chart plotter, VHF, trolling motor and any other major electronics you are running to make sure they have power. Check all the lights to make sure they work. Electrical gremlins are difficult to trace and best investigated in your driveway. 

Independent of the weather, my retirement job has me on the water running a small boat as many as 6 days a week. The winter weather is not forgiving and often rattles or jars nerves and electrical connections loose. I have lost the radio, wipers, tilt/trim motor and the bilge pump while running in winter chop. I just deal with things as required but you don’t want to spend your precious fishing time troubleshooting electrical problems. 

After all things electrical are functioning as expected, hook the engine up to the garden hose (be sure to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer recommendations) or dunk it in a livestock trough and start your baby up. If your rig has water pressure and temperature gauges check them now. Make sure the tilt and trim are working. Check the steering, especially mechanical steering, to see if there are any problems. Also, before you shut the engine off pull the kill-switch to make sure it works. Check all the switches and breakers to make sure they are working.

Inspect the condition of your downrigger cable or braid. If you are running a stainless steel cable and it is rusted or kinked, replace it. If you are running one of the synthetic braids cut off a few feet and re-tie it. You don’t want 10-15 pounds of lead to suddenly head for the bottom, potentially taking your rod and rod holder with it. However, if it does, it may be an indication that your release clip was a bit too tight. Also check for loose fasteners, worn or missing parts and corroded electrical connections. Fix anything that is even remotely questionable.

Give your trailer the once over. Now is the time to check the trailer lights and trailer brake fluid levels. Also, check the tire pressure on all the tires including the spare. Ensure that all bunks and/or rollers are in good condition. Check your safety chain, winch strap or cable and tie down straps and replace them if they are questionable. Check your lights and if they need replacing consider replacing them with waterproof LED lights. Initially, they are more costly but with increased reliability they will pay for themselves in no time. As an added safety benefit the LEDs are much brighter than the standard 12-volt incandescent lights. Now is also a good time to check and maybe even repack your trailer bearings, better safe than sorry. 

I know, all your rods are piled up safe and sound in the corner of the garage and better yet everything worked fine last year so you have nothing to do, wrong! It is the start of what should be a productive fishing season and you don’t want to lose the fish of a lifetime because your favorite reel has a case of the herkie-jerkies. Although with most reels it is easy enough to replace the drag washers, sometimes getting the replacement parts can be a challenge. When you disassemble your reels use simple green to thoroughly clean the reel components. Rinse and then dry the parts using the low setting on a blow-drier or heat gun before reassembly. Once the parts are clean inspect everything, look for unusual wear and replace anything suspect. Use advanced synthetic lubricants and reel grease sparingly during the reassembly process. 

If you are running mono, replace it with new line. Take your reels to a high-volume tackle store (Think Holiday Sports in Burlington or similar) and have them bulk-fill your reels. Their line should be fresher, and most tackle shops recycle your old line.

Also, give all your rods the once over. Make a point to verify that each line guide is not cracked or worn. You can use a cotton swab and swirl around in each guide. If the guide catches any cotton fibers the guide needs to be replaced. I have lost a few notable fish due to cracked ceramic guide inserts. 

On any given trout or kokanee trip I pack several pre-tied rigs and various components to craft more. Often several of them were tied the previous year. Last year we caught a lot of fish and the 12# fluorocarbon I use to tie gear looks frazzled. It’s time to retie much of my Kokanee arsenal. Fishing with sharp hooks is critical when chasing kokanee. Check your hooks and replace them as required. Look over your gear, and retie anything questionable.

A few years back, one of the kids and I were fishing at the Lake Stevens Kokanee Derby. We ended up losing a huge kokanee. When I looked at the rig afterward, the trailing hook had come unraveled. It was a home-tied kokanee fly and after catching many fish it had just failed. There’s peace of mind in knowing that your gear is in tip-top condition.

Now is a great time to develop your Kokanee game plan. With all the PNW Kokanee lakes to choose from, my recommendation is that you choose a Kokanee lake close to your home. Somewhere where you can fish both on the weekend and during the week as your schedule permits. Don’t fret about the size of the fish or even the numbers. This will be your learning/confidence building lake. Learn your boat, fish finder, downriggers, trolling speed, lure presentation and generally become the local expert while building confidence in your kokanee angling abilities. Then, whether you’re fishing a new lake or fishing a frequently visited lake the lessons learned at your home lake will help you catch kokanee with confidence.

Kokanee are filter feeders, and the bulk of their calories come from plankton blooms. There are windows any given day where a bloom or hatch will occur, and the kokanee will briefly leave their comfort zone to feed. Because the bite may go off at 2:08-2:24 with your gear running at 43’, it is best to choose a kokanee lake close to home and as said before learn it. Especially when late winter or spring kokanee fishing, keep a detailed fishing log.

Be the local expert and share your hard-earned knowledge. Back at the ramp… “Yeah, it was great fishing today… Good luck, tight lines and may your cooler be full”

Although I align my tactics for a given lake, seasonally I don’t really change my overall approach much. The usual kokanee drill: a small dodger, lure with tuna corn is a great place to start when hunting for spring kokanee. Make sure you have your favorite scents, maybe a container of worms and additional leader onboard. Not always but occasionally you will need to revise your leader length. When trolling for spring kokanee you will want to run 0.8-1.2 MPH. “S” turns or tools like the iTroll “Hunt” mode help. Make sure to make a mental note of what’s working when you get bitten. “Monkey see, monkey do” strongly applies to kokanee fishing. Repeat what works.

Our dodger box has more dodgers in it than most but during the spring Kokanee fishery my go-to dodgers are painted dodgers in various colors. Using either spinner rigs, flies or a very small Spin-n-glo behind the dodger seem to consistently produce kokanee during the spring fishery. After you hook your prize, gently fight the fish. Always lead the fish to the net, don’t repeatedly stab at the fish with your net and hope that the slimy bugger ends up in your cooler. As with any kokanee fishery, a long-handled net will increase your actual catch verses hook up statistics. 

During the spring the lake temperatures should be down. But still make sure you still care for your catch. Bleed them and keep them on ice or even better in a slurry (ice, water, and salt) in your cooler. You’ll want to preserve the quality of your hard-earned prize. 

Kokanee are a noble opponent. They often make short runs, jump and go bonkers at the net. Summer fish are more aggressive, but spring kokanee take more finesse to get them in the net. After grilling, smoking or chowderizing hundreds of Kokanee, both the summer and the winter fish are excellent table fare. But the early spring fish are outstanding for whole or fillet panfries and grilling.

The above is just a starting point. Choose a lake, learn it and you’ll soon be the local expert! Trolling for Washington State kokanee can be frustrating. But, with the management challenges impacting most of our salmon fisheries; a bit of kokanee frustration will quickly become an addiction. Enjoy your spring koka-energy!

Ice fishing is a unique and rewarding outdoor activity that requires specialized equipment to make the experience enjoyable. One crucial piece of gear that can significantly enhance your ice-fishing adventure is a shelter. Two popular options on the market are hub shelters and flip-style shelters. In this article, we will go over the reasons why anglers might prefer one over the other, exploring the benefits and considerations that come with each choice.

Hub Shelters: The Central Hub Of Comfort And Versatility.

-Spacious Interior: One of the primary advantages of hub shelters lies in their spacious interior. These shelters typically feature a hub on each side, and top, that serves as the support point for multiple poles, creating a roomy and open fishing space. Anglers can enjoy ample room for movement, accommodating multiple people comfortably.

-Quick set up: Hub shelters are known for their quick and super easy setup. With a simple pop-up mechanism, anglers can have their shelter ready in minutes, allowing more time for fishing. This convenience is valuable in extreme and inclement weather conditions when the swift assembly is crucial for staying warm and focused on the catch. The design of hub shelters, with multiple support arms radiating from a center hub, contributes to their stability, especially in windy conditions. With proper support, the stability ensures that the shelter remains firmly anchored to the ice, providing a secure environment for all anglers.

Hub shelters often come with customizable features, allowing the angler to adapt their set-up based on personal preferences and weather conditions or using an overnight setup. From adjustable ventilation options to detachable flooring, these shelters offer a level of customization that enhances the overall ice-fishing experience.

Flip-Style Shacks: Mobility And Quick Strikes.

Flip-style shacks are favored for their portability and ease of transport. These shacks typically come in a compact, sled-like design that can be easily towed across the ice. This portability is especially advantageous for anglers who prefer running and gunning from one fishing spot to another quickly.

The flip-styles are equipped with sleds, enhancing their mobility on the ice. This feature allows anglers to tow their shelter to different locations without the need for additional equipment. For ice anglers, the defining feature is the quick setup and take-down process. Anglers can simply flip open the shelter, allowing immediate access to gear and the fishing area. This rapid deployment is ideal for anglers who like to stay on the move, running and gunning to explore various spots, making the flip-style shelter a valuable companion.

Ultimately, the decision between a hub shelter, and a flip-style shelter depends on individual preferences, fishing style, specific conditions, number of people, etc. Both options offer unique advantages, providing anglers with the flexibility to tailor their ice fishing experience and set up to suit their needs. Whether you choose the central hub for a spacious shelter or the quick mobility of a flip-style, investing in the right ice fishing shelter is a key step towards enhancing your winter fishing and adventures!

These are some of the best days on the water, in December and January, when a lot of other sportsmen are watching football. Fly-rodders watch the weather and hope for a hatch of midges and look forward to the little black stoneflies, but there are better ways to tempt bigger trout in December and January. Plastic worms and minnows can tease big trout out from beneath the undercut banks and beads, tailored to size and color can turn on the bite.

TWITCHING PLASTIC 

Plastic worms tend to produce as many fish as natural baits. And you don't have to dig through the compost pile to find them.  

Adapted from steelhead drift fishing the best rig is a six-pound main line tied to a barrel swivel. A sliding sinker on the main line is a good way to get the bait down but another option is to leave a tag on the main line knot and crimp on removable split shot. The leader should be 20 inches long terminated at a No. 10-8 single egg hook. 

Rig to drift the edge of a seam with just enough weight to tickle the tops of the rocks. Jeff Warner, founder of X Factor Tackle, relies on three main colors in cold winter water - hot red, fluorescent pink, and natural worm. 

Warner's go-to for brown trout on his home water is a 1/16-ounce jig head on a No. 4 hook and an X-Factor Teaser minnow. He fishes without a float. 

"In my experience, it is better to allow the bait to do its work as an injured bait fish. I don't want a natural drift, I want violent rips and jerks. It's why I like the lightweight jig. I don't need it to be down on the bottom. It lets the bait look more erratic than it does with a heavy jig head."

Jeff Warner

Warner's favorite on a bright sunny day is motor oil with red flake. Warner recommends a plastic minnow in the tail-outs and along the seams and ripping it back.

"I like to cast it upriver and then work the clock so to speak. Even cast it straight downriver and twitch it. If I don't catch a fish by that time there ain't one in there."

Jeff Warner

The bite can be hard to detect. Keep the index finger on the line to stay in touch with the rocks and set the hook at the least tug that signals a grab.

FLY ROD EGGS/BEADS

When fishing egg imitations and hard beads, the big challenge is to get them at the level the fish are holding and allow a dead-drift presentation.

Try to position the bead about two inches above the hook. This can be accomplished in several different ways. One easy way to do it is to nail knot a piece of clear mono on the leader and position it two inches above the hook acting as a stop. 

Set the indicator (a good one is the easy-to-cast plastic Thingamabobber) and put split shot on above the tippet knot (or swivel) and set the float about the depth of the water. 

When the trout bites the bead the angler reacts with a short upward lift which tends to pull the bead through and pin the hook in the outside corner of the mouth. 

With whitefish spawning in western rivers in late January and February we have bait to match. Trout that key on whitefish spawn get used to gobbling the yellow eggs and its why some fly-fishermen tie on yellow wet flies in February without knowing the reason why the trout are biting. Summer steelhead may also spawn in January and February, in which case, the trout are eating orange eggs. In any case, small orange beads or tiny yellow eggs can turn a rainbow's head this month.

SOFT PLASTIC BEADS

One of the greatest moments in drift fishing is to watch a trout peel away from its holding lie and follow a soft orange egg downstream then crush it. A squishable, scented egg imitation tumbled along the gravel with a drift fishing rig or a bottom-walking drop shot setup is a good bet in December. 

My favorite hook for this work is a Daiichi salmon egg bleeding bait hook sized No. 12 up to No. 8. Again, the soft bead is best positioned two inches above the hook, which can be accomplished by using a nail knot, a blood knot, a sequin or similar bead stopper. 

One of the mistakes we make is using an indicator in shallow, clear water. If the fish and the bottom is visible, dispense with the indicator and just watch for the take. 

A mistake we often make is allowing the weight to control the movement of the egg. This is why a sliding sinker is sometimes the best choice. And why a drop shot weight might be the best choice with a tag end of a surgeon's knot used to splice on a bit of 4-pound fluoro. That bait should present as freely as possible in multiple braided currents. The egg wants to be free!  

# # #

For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709

To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

Strip, strip, strip… the intermediate sinking fly line passed through my fingers in three-inch increments. Varying the retrieve, sometimes fast sometimes slower, pausing and resuming my retrieve, I floated along in my belly tube, taking in all the remote mountain lake had to offer. A tree-lined shore, snow-covered mountains for a backdrop, and not another soul in sight.

Suddenly the line came to a hard stop, jerking my rod forward, the frantic pulling of another chunky rainbow signaled “fish on”. Catching up my line to the reel, I played the healthy native trout to me, sliding the knotless net under her belly. The glistening distinctive markings of the bow glowed vibrantly in the evening light. Gently removing my barbless fly, I cradled the tired fish while it rested. In a few moments, the rainbow impatiently strained against the confines of the net, eager to return to the cool depths of the lake. Safely recovered, I tilted the net and watched the fish dart away, a splash of cold water in my face as if to say, “don’t fool me again!”.

If you had just one fly in your arsenal to catch trout, what would you pick? The hardcore anglers of course will dismiss this question as irrelevant and silly. Fly fishing is all about matching the hatch, and there are literally hundreds of variations of flies – dry, wet, nymph, the possibilities could fill up several tackle boxes. Picking one sounds like a fool’s errand, doesn’t it? Well, I will cast my vote and be that fool. Drum roll please…

My favorite, go to fly is – the venerable Wooley Bugger.

Was that your choice as well? If not, let me expand on why the Wooley Bugger is often the first fly I will cast out on a new body of water, and some of the qualities that make this fly, in my opinion, so essential to be in your tackle box.

First, a Wooley Bugger is a wet fly which can be used in lakes, rivers, ponds, and even saltwater fishing. Wooley Buggers come in a variety of styles and colors and can be considered to imitate many different food sources for fish, including small minnows, leeches, nymphs, and anything else swimming around a lake or river. As such, Wooley Buggers are the ultimate “searching” fly, perfect for exploring new bodies of water with.

Wooley Buggers lend themselves well to more than traditional fly fishing. They can be adapted for many styles of angling and fish species. Years ago, Uncle Wes Malmberg took me to a SW Washington Lake, and long lining a Wooley Bugger with a Mack’s Smile Blade off the back of his 14 foot aluminum boat we spent a relaxing morning catching and releasing rainbow after rainbow. A couple split shots was all that was required to sink the fly under the surface and entice fish after fish to grab on. Fished bait and scent-less, we easily caught and safely released several dozen fish that day. Such a simple but deadly effective method! I immediately went home and tied up several new colors to add to my collection.

For the beginner fly-tier, the Wooley Bugger is likely the first fly you ever will learn to tie. The reason is this fly is simple to make, and is generally on a larger, long hook shank, making it easy for beginner fingers (or those with older, arthritic hands). As such, it’s a great “introduction to fly-tying fly”, before tackling those challenging #20 dry flies and nymphs! A quick search on the internet will provide you with a multitude of videos and tutorials so I won’t go into the actual tying here, suffice it to say if this is an interest, you’ll find plenty of information on how to tie the Wooley Bugger. It’s a great first fly to tie and is hard to make a bad looking one.

Another application for the Wooley Bugger that you don’t hear about often, but can be deadly effective, is trolling behind a sling blade for kokanee. Go to colors are pink, red, and orange. Add a Mack’s Smile Blade and a single kernel of corn, short leader of 8 inches, and you are in business. The single hook provides excellent penetration on strikes, but if you’re anxious about that single hook tying on a small treble hook or trailing hook is certainly fair game.

Now that I live in Montana, more of my time is spent fly fishing. When I arrive at a new lake or pond, if I don’t see rising trout, I’ll start off with a sinking tip line and Wooley Bugger in a natural color, tans, browns, and greens. Casting and stripping back is a tried-and-true method, as his casting out and slowly kicking my belly boat along, waiting for that solid jerk signaling another fish fooled by this classic and timeless fly. Whether behind a fly rod, spinning rod, or trolling rod, the Wooley Bugger will get you on fish. Give it a try, I think you’ll be happy with the results!

With the arrival of each new season here in the Northwest, it’s hard not to feel like a kid in a candy store. Whether it's fall, winter, spring, or summer, these annual intervals of changing weather and day length always seem to provide new opportunities for the men and women who choose to reap the spoils of the outdoors. If the desire is there, the fun and the food is at our doorsteps. 

A commonly overlooked opportunity that starts up in Neah Bay during late August and ends down in the south Puget Sound towards the end of winter, is the squid fishery, specifically the Pacific coast squid, also known as the California market squid.

The Pacific coast squid are relatively small, averaging about 8 inches. They have short lifespans and spend most of their time in the Eastern Pacific Ocean—between Baja California and Southeastern Alaska. They move into the straights of Juan De Fuca during late summer and their numbers tend to peak in the Puget Sound around December and January.

The fishery is often fickle, with some years falling short of anglers’ expectations, while other years the fishery can prove to be quite robust. On these years when the squid are plentiful, the hardest working anglers can find themselves heading home with their limits, which, as of January of 2023, the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife has set at 10 lbs or a five-gallon bucket filled to the halfway point. Now that is a lot of calamari!

Jigging from a boat or a pier is the most common way to procure these saltwater delicacies, and during the winter you will often find the docks from Everett down to the south Puget Sound alive with folks chasing the Pacific squid. Squidding is a minimalistic endeavor. A fishing rod, a spinning reel, and a squid jig are essentially all that is needed. Squid jigs find their origins in Japan.

They are usually torpedo or bullet-shaped jigs with several spines at the bottom that point upright. These spines don't serve the same purpose as a typical fishing hook. Instead of puncturing or penetrating the squid, they create a bit of a platform for the squid to become entangled in as they latch onto the colorful plastic body portion of the jig.

Many squid jigging enthusiasts swear that nighttime is the best time to catch squid. By in large this holds true, but it’s also important to put some focus on the tides and water clarity. A high tide with decent water clarity can produce squid even during the daytime.

At night, squid are attracted to the lights illuminating off of the piers. The general belief around this is that light attracts phytoplankton, the phytoplankton then attracts zooplankton, and zooplankton attract the fish and other critters that squid like to feed on. Piers already come equipped with their own lights and these typically do a decent job of providing the needed illumination to bring in the squid.

With that being said, the chances of bringing in larger amounts of squid become increased when a more powerful and concentrated light is introduced. Folks will often bring battery or generator-powered lights to shine into the water. Check with local rules to find out if generators are allowed.

While on the topic of rules, it’s important to note that there is a fair amount of pier fishing etiquette to consider while navigating the pier. It’s best to speak with folks who are using lights and ask them if it’s ok to post up next to them. There’s a good chance they might be saving these spots for friends or family and It’s not uncommon for conflict to occur on the pier if people aren’t using common courtesy while acquiring their jigging spots.

Just as the gear is minimalistic, the technique is simple as well. Folks will work their jigs in a variety of ways, but sticking to the basics is what generally will get you on the squid. When casting, you should allow your jig to drop to a depth where squid are holding, lift the tip of your rod and slowly retrieve as you lower the rod tip back down, then repeat the process.

Once you have a squid on your jig, keep tension on the line and the squid should remain there as you retrieve. The method is similar while jigging directly beneath you, though you won’t be doing any reeling in of the line until a squid has attached itself. Some people like to do a few quick and hard lifts of the rod and then let it sit near the bottom for a few moments. Though you might not feel the squid strike your jig, the difference of weight at the end of your line once you lift again, will be your indicator that you have a squid on.

So, if you’re anything like me, and consider the sound of a bubbling deep fryer to be just as much of a winter staple as holiday tunes or roasted turkeys, then put on your winter jacket and head to a local pier for your shot at getting that bucket up to its halfway point with these great tasting cephalopods. And remember, there’s no such thing as bad weather, there’s only such a thing as bad gear!

2023/2024 Blackmouth Prospects

With the exception of a few laggard B-run coho in the rivers, our PNW salmon focus should be shifting to the 2023-2024 Puget Sound winter blackmouth fishery. Typically, winter blackmouth is one of my favorite local fishing opportunities. Going back to my mid-teens winter blackmouth fishing has always been one of my very favorite ways to grow snotsicles. 

Because recent conservation measures have severely reduced our opportunity to drag downrigger balls in the gravel, many of us will be considering putting the salmon gear away and winterizing the boat. You may want to hold off a bit, break out a wool hat, hoodie, and your cold weather friend Mr Heater. it’s almost blackmouth season. But, what’s a blackmouth?

Blackmouth are chinook salmon that have decided not to migrate to the usual feeding grounds in the Gulf of Alaska. Instead, they tend to remain in Puget Sound and the Straights to feed on local schools of herring, candlefish, other forage fish, and squid. 

Back in the 1960s, WDFW decided to duplicate the natural tendency of a small percentage of chinook to remain in Puget Sound and create a year-round sports fishery. The WDFW established a team led by Frank Shaw and got to work. It was determined that if you held the usual hatchery release at 3 months for an additional year, or 15-18 months total, the chinook would forage locally. 

The original releases were made in Capital Lake in Olympia. The program moved to net pens by Squaxin Island but the WDFW determined that the salt-reared fish tended to migrate. The program was shifted to several local hatcheries. They are for the most part clipped, but there are certain releases where the co-manager agreements do not allow the fish to be clipped.

Over the years we have seen a reduction in opportunity; a few years back we lost the winter blackmouth fishery in Marine Area 7, 8-1, 8-2, and MA 9. They were closed to preserve or extend some of the summer chinook fisheries while still supporting federal and co-manager escapement goals. 

Reduced opportunity, well maybe, but there are still a few areas that will host a blackmouth fishery this winter. That said; chip the ice out of your bilge, gas up the boat, and read on.

But first, no boat? While most of our winter blackmouth fishing will be from a boat, there is also an opportunity for a limited shore-based fishery. More on that later, if you do have a boat here is a breakdown of the 2023/2024 Puget Sound winter blackmouth fishery.  

• MA 5 will be open 4/1/2024-4/30/2024 with a 22” minimum and a 2 fish limit, (1 chinook may be retained). 
• MA 5 Management Criteria – Sublegal Encounters; the encounters guideline is 3,707 fish.
• MA 10 will be open 3/1/2024-4/15/2024 with a 22” minimum and a 2 fish limit, (1 chinook may be retained). 
• MA 10 Management Criteria – Total Encounters; the encounters guideline is 4,953 fish. Unmarked Encounters; the encounters guideline is 953 fish. Sublegal Encounters; the encounters guideline is 4,181 fish.
• MA 11 will be open 3/1/2024-4/15/2024 with a 22” minimum and a 2 fish limit, (1 chinook may be retained).  
• MA 11 Management Criteria – Total Encounters, the encounters guideline is 1,191 fish. Unmarked Encounters; the encounters guideline is 259 fish. Sublegal Encounters; the encounters guideline is 816 fish.
• MA 13 will be open 10/1/2021-5/14/2021 with a 2 fish limit and a 22” minimum size. Management Criteria do not currently apply. 
• MA 6, 7, 8-1, 8-2, 9 and both North/South MA 12 will be closed for the 2023/2024 winter blackmouth fishery.

The above information was extracted for the 2023 North of Falcon data and may be subject to additional closures. Consult the WDFW App, or website for the current regulations and emergency closures.

With the limited blackmouth opportunity for the 2023/2024 winter season, the open areas will likely be busy. Instead of detailing each area, I’ll try to break down the different Marine Areas into a few general options for starting your adventure. 

Before that though; think of points, banks, and flats. Look for areas where the currents will collect bait. Keep a constant eye on your fishfinder and look for schools of bait. Although forage fish populations change from year to year, candle fish and herring are the primary forage fish for Puget Sound blackmouth. That said, because of a general crash in the Puget Sound herring populations, candlefish are currently the major blackmouth food source. 

Candlefish show as a cloud of bait right on the bottom. Find candlefish and you significantly improve your odds, find arches and candlefish on the deck and it will be hammer time! Candlefish spawn in the gravel and are rarely found above that. I have caught many blackmouth where their gill plates and bellies were all scraped up. I have even cleaned fish and found gravel in their stomachs. So, where does one target gravel filled salmon? 

Marine Area 5

Or basically the Sekiu/Pillar Point area has a few notable blackmouth areas to target. The Caves, Clallam Bay, and then Slip Point to Pillar Point can all be awesome blackmouth fisheries. All can be very exposed to winter weather so know your limitations. Help is a longways off if you get in trouble so always err on the cautious side.

Marine Area 10

Is the Seattle/Bremerton area and includes a number of well known, semi-protected blackmouth fisheries. Kingston, Jeff Head, West Point, Elliot Bay, Alki Point, Point Monroe, Skiff Point, Manchester, and different banks or points around Blake Island consistently produce blackmouth. Look at the weather, choose a launch and learn a given area to feed your winter addiction.

Marine Area 11

Or the Tacoma area is one of the best small-boat blackmouth fisheries on Puget Sound. The Slag Pile, Owens Beach, and Clay Banks are all easily accessible and just minutes from the Point Defiance launch. With the proper boat for the conditions, Dalco Point, the Beach just north of Gig Harbor, Point Robinson, Browns Point and Dash Point all offer solid blackmouth fishing as well.

Marine Area 13

Is an interesting fishery. It is the area south of The Tacoma Narrows Bridge. The whole area is fairly protected from winter weather but the better fishing areas are a bit of a run from any of the all-tide metropolitan ramps. With that said, MA 13 is kind of a local’s fishery, with smaller boats launching into open water from a handful of unimproved county ramps. A few areas stand out; including Point Fosdick, various areas around Fox Island, Lyle Point, Oro Bay, and Johnson Point all hold fishable numbers of blackmouth. Depending on the tide there are many less known points that disrupt the tidal flow and hold bait. Be that guy, maybe more so than any other area in Puget Sound, MA 13 has many 1 fish spots. Review both your charts and tidal information and know where to fish during the different tidal phases.

Blackmouth fishing is a planning and patience game. Choose a ramp, select a handful of areas you want to fish, and understand how the tide will impact them. Independent from the tide often the best fishing will be at first light. From there follow your plan, if you make a pass on your initial stop and there are no signs of life move on to plan B and C as required. Depending on the tidal conditions don’t be afraid to revisit plan B! I know that I mentioned patience but if you’re not seeing bait on the meter move on. Typically boat limits will be hard to come by, but put a couple of nice blackmouth on ice and you’ve had a good day. 

My general blackmouth drill includes trolling with the downriggers or motor mooching cut plug herring. If dogfish are in the area, skip the cut plug plan and stick to trolling. Run 11” flashers ahead of spoons, trolling flies, or hoochies. Spice up the trolling flies and hoochies with salted herring strips. Target schools of bait along the bottom in 90-140’ of water while keeping your gear within 5’ of the bottom. I troll 2.5-about 3.5 mph for blackmouth and all my blackmouth leaders are tied on 42” of 30# fluorocarbon. 

Earlier I mentioned a shore-based opportunity to catch blackmouth. No really, I’m not nuts. Well, OK maybe I am a little nuts but there are many piers and boardwalks that are open to salmon fishing year-round. Study the WDFW Sport Fishing Rules and check the Emergency Rules as they supersede the general sport fishing rules. When I was a kid, well before cell phones and computers I used to frequently fish the piers and caught a lot of blackmouth. I didn’t chase reports to fish a hot bite. I had to put in the time while experimenting my way through the gear and presentation until I caught fish. 

I usually carried two rods, a dozen small herring (fresh or frozen, back then fresh herring was the norm), and a small handful of gear. My go-to rig was a level wind steelhead rod rigged with a large sliding float and a hand-tied mooching leader. I would nose hook the herring, leaving the trailing hook free, and gently cast it off the down current corner of the pier. I would free spool, letting the rig drift until I was down the last few wraps of line on the spool and then put it in gear. Recovering a crank or two every few minutes, it would take forever to reset. The process was deadly and accounted for many salmon dinners.

I also fished hardware. A double hooked Colorado spinner with a herring strip will catch anything in the sound. I’d rig them on a 24-30” leader behind a piece of pencil lead. Easy-peazy; just cast, let sink and slowly wind it back in. Where most fish would hammer it, salmon seemed to cause the retrieve to hesitate then go in for the kill. The other method was to use flutter spoons. This was pre-buzzbomb/rotators and involved casting heavy spoons or Swedish Pimple type lures and letting them sink for a bit. The process was similar to twitching jigs, slowly lifting your rod tip, and then picking up a crank of two while you quickly tower the rod. Between the 3 methods, most of my pier fishing excursions were a success.  

This should get you started in your quest to extend your local salmon fishing opportunities while you freeze your keister off. The when, where, and how are baselined but I suggest choosing an area and learning it. As a boater or pier-ite, become the local expert! Please remember that our winter weather can be unpredictable. Make sure your boat is seaworthy, full of fuel, fuel conditioner and you are dressed for the weather. A little upfront planning will help to ensure that you and your crew have a safe and productive blackmouth adventure.