Fishing Location

I’d never given it much thought until recently, a thought drifted up from my subconscious. This epiphany revealed to my satisfaction a reason for my deep peace and joy I experienced floating rivers on my pontoon. “Huckleberry Finn”. The childhood memory engulfed me, and I realized, all these years later, what a profound influence Mark Twain had on my life, all from a book I read many years ago in my childhood. 

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I would be lying if I told you I remembered any specific details that I read, rather, it was a realization that the journey of Huck Fin and Tom Sawyer, floating down the Mississippi, had etched into my spirit a longing for adventures, pondering what lies around the next bend, floating effortlessly on a liquid highway, seeing new sights and connecting with nature, and my essence, in a way that gave me a level of serenity essential to my very being. Now, so many years later, I see that it was natural for me to combine fishing with adventures. Indeed, from childhood on, I’ve found my true moments of peace outdoors. Adding fishing to the equation gave me a purpose, an excuse, and as I travelled through the decades of my life, I instinctively gravitated to the combination of fishing with outdoor adventures.

Canoes and overnight trips were the stuff of my early travels, whether a five-day float down Wisconsin’s Kickapoo River, or paddling and portaging the Boundary Waters of Minnesota, I saw the beauty of the outdoors, catching fish along the way. Casting a small Mepps up against a sandstone wall and feeling a beautiful brown trout bend my budget friendly spinning rod, pulling line off the reel, or tossing a topwater spinner into a weedy shoreline, the bubbling chatter of the blade drawing the attention of a green-stripped pike knifing toward it with a V-shaped wake, the anticipation and final smash of the grab – I was literally hooked for life!

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I was fortunate to have moved to Washington during a time when hatcheries put out large numbers of smolts, and returns of hatchery fish made for many memorable days of steelhead limits. My go-to rivers were the Cowlitz, Skykomish, and Satsop. I ran up and down these rivers in an eight-foot sport raft with an eight-horsepower prop (with my own modified, raised transom to avoid rocks). It was a fun time, but there was something missing. I can only thank the subconscious imprint Mark Twain had on me. At a winter Sportsman’s Show, I happened upon a booth where Dave Scadden rafts and pontoons were displayed. I stopped in mid-step and took a closer look at what would soon become my new passion. Dave had a variety of pontoon boats on display, but what really caught my eye was a cherry red two-person twelve-foot pontoon boat. My mind immediately began contemplating the adventures I could have with friends, and two boys who would soon be old enough to join in on trips with me. I remember the boat had features that caught my attention, such as being able to easily convert it from a two-person to a one-person pontoon, and a nifty storage system for coolers or overnight trips. Fighting the impulse to buy on the spot, I went home that night and did my research. Satisfied that it was a good quality product at a fair price, I came back the next day and made my purchase. 

The rest, as they say, is history. My cherry red pontoon took me on multiple adventures, including floating the Wilson River with each of my sons for fall chinook. Many a water was explored and many fish netted in my fire-red pontoon. The years added on, and the boat served me well. Twenty or so years later, my retirement years are coming ever closer. Last year, my wife and I moved to Great Falls, Montana, to be closer to our grandchildren, and farther away from the ever-growing Puget Sound region with its claustrophobia-inducing congestion. My backyard river is now the Missouri. My son Matt and I have floated the river several times, and the pontoon performed fine, but I found myself gazing enviously as drift boats and larger rafts floated by. I observed they offered a more stable platform for tossing flies and anchoring up on this big river. The seed had been planted, and it took full root when my wife JoAnn casually mentioned there was some spare cash in a savings account, which I knew nothing of. Husbands know that spare cash and a wife’s “OK” are the final straw. My research kicked into high gear!

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I looked at the variety of drift boats and rafts out there and narrowed my choice down to a raft. I prefer the flexibility and lighter weight of a raft. After looking at several companies and designs, I found myself on the Dave Scadden website. I was instantly impressed by the selection of framed rafts, with sizes and features aimed at whatever budget and needs a boater was looking for. I had determined that in addition to a stable platform, I also wanted a big enough raft to handle three anglers, and space to store overnight camping gear for those Huck Finn adventures. Each year, Montana opens the Smith River to a lottery, allowing a limited number of anglers to float this secluded and scenic 57-mile canyon-lined river. I’ve decided this four-day float is going to be on my Bucket List. 
After a call to Dave to discuss my goals, I selected his new 14-foot Dragonfly. With a 6-foot beam, three seats, a casting brace, an inline anchor system, and the rigid dry floor insert feature, the raft was just what I was looking for. Throw in an excellent warranty and my positive experience with my pontoon boat, and I feel confident I’d found a winner.

Pairing my new raft with a flat bed 5x8 trailer (to which I added a couple of rollers made with PVC piping), my sons Matt and James, and I headed to the Missouri River for a maiden voyage. Launching below the Holter Lake dam, we floated 5 miles down to the takeout at Craig. Around us were every style of floating vessels – drift boats, pontoons, rafts – we felt right at home. The Dragonfly had plenty of room for the rower and two anglers. While the front angler had a casting brace, the rear angler did not. This would be a feature I will try to add as a DIY project. The anchoring system is also not as robust as a higher-end (and twice as expensive) raft. I can live with it. Again, if you go on YouTube, there are some DIY setups to improve the anchor system.
Anchored up and casting nymphs with indicators, James let out a “fish on”, his first ever fish caught on a fly, and his first ever Montana fish. A nice native whitefish came to the net after a bulldog fight. The smile on James’ face was my big catch for the day.  Introducing Matt and James to my inner Huck Finn was more satisfying than catching a 20” trout – well, maybe.

It was a windier day than we had hoped for, but the waves were not white-topped, and we had a 40-horse Merc and a trolling motor to fight the wind with. It was my first trip to Ochoco for the season, but my dad had been fishing it since March and knew right where we wanted to start. It didn't hurt that the wind was blowing us that way, too. 

We started at the top of the lake where the creeks come in, around the flooded willows. 

For my main rod, I had selected a rust-colored, sparsely tied mohair leech and was using a floating line with a 4X tippet. 

My young dog Pepper was with me for her first time fishing. She thought she was expected to work and was watching tweety birds while we unlimbered the fly rods. I tried to keep her from tangling in the expensive tackle. Once she got so excited, she jumped into the lake. After she realized this was just supposed to be a pleasure trip for her, she settled down and was just irritated for the rest of the day. 

A big trout took my fly on the first pass but was able to throw the hook after a brief battle. Dad was also using a rust-colored fly, and our friend Keith Gran, fly-fishing for the first time in his misspent life, was using a fly called the Autumn Splendor, which might have reminded Keith of someone he used to know because he kept whispering to it, saying her name. 

Whatever he was whispering to the Autumn Splendor was working because soon he hooked and landed a trout. And then caught another. 

For my part, I began catching bass. And dad, running the trolling motor and a 4-weight rod, began catching bass too, and a crappie. 

OCHOCO AT FULL POOL  

After three winters of better-than-average snowpack, a lot of central Oregon waters that were very low, even dry in some cases, are back and better than ever. Ochoco Reservoir has always been a bit of a local's secret. It is only six miles outside of Prineville, and when conditions are good, the trout grow fat, putting on an inch a month. Better yet, this reservoir has good wintering conditions, meaning that holdover trout are common, going 16 to 17 inches in late spring and early summer. 

With water in it, Ochoco Reservoir is three miles long. Because it is an irrigation reservoir, water levels can change over the year. Surface acreage at low pool can go as low as 120 acres, but filled to full pool by early spring this year, the reservoir is full at approximately 1,100 acres. 

At full pool, Ochoco averages 30 feet in depth with a maximum of 100 feet near the dam. A few lava outcroppings fortify the banks but because of up-and-down water levels, shorelines are composed of exposed silty bottom and muddy flats. Mill Creek and Ochoco Creek form channels in the reservoir. In the spring and summer, afternoon winds can be substantial.

When targeting rainbows with a fly rod, try trolling from a float tube, canoe, or a pontoon boat. Fish along the riprap near the dam or on the east end of the lake near the inlets. Use an intermediate sinking line and troll leech patterns like the Woolly Bugger, Lake Bugger and Mohair Leech or a soft hackle wet fly like the Carey Special.

Crappie are often in large schools and may hold at specific depths around sunken structures. The challenge lies in locating them and plumbing the precise depth where the school is holding.

Because of the abundance of water, the trout fishing is going to continue excellently through July. But this is a great time of year to target smallmouth. And there are some surprisingly heavy bass in the lake. If fly-fishing is the game, use "bass nymphs" which are generally on No. 4 hooks tied like Woolly Buggers but with a heavy bead and black or yellow or orange rubber legs. These can be presented on floating lines under indicators or cast tight against the rocks or other structures. Bass will often take the fly on the drop. And you might be surprised by a big rainbow. 

When fishing with spinning gear, use spinner baits and crankbaits, or curly-tail grubs. 

Ochoco Reservoir has been overlooked for the last ten years because it has been hard to fish. But those days are behind us. This Central Oregon fishery is running full pool, and the trout and bass fishing is full tilt. 

It’s no secret that last year’s razor clam season was a banner year. Record number of clam diggers swarmed beaches, working hard to get their limits. 484,388 diggers showed up, harvesting 8,352,279 clams, over 120 total harvest days. That’s a lot of razor clams! This was a welcome success after the 2019-2020 and 2020-2021 seasons closed early due to COVID-19 and domoic acid, respectively. Thousands of eager razor clam diggers are wondering if this season will be as successful as the last.

Dust off those razor clam guns and get your hip boots ready, because the forecast is looking promising! WDFW assessed razor clam populations throughout the summer and all had strong, harvestable populations except for at Kalaloch, which will be closed this year to allow recovery. Let’s take a closer look at this year’s forecast, and how WDFW determines annual razor clam harvests.

Razor clams have been enjoyed by millions of people over thousands of years. They are a valuable resource to hungry fishermen and local economies. WDFW estimated the fishery value to be $71,689 last year. So how are these crucial resources managed? Since 1929, WDFW has managed the coastal razor clam harvest. It’s a difficult job- they have to balance the demands of recreational fishermen with the rights of the tribes, all while keeping public safety in mind. Management strategies have been ever evolving.

From 1929 to 1942, there was a year-round season, and a 36-clam limit. In 1943, WDFW limited the season from March 1st to September 30th, and in 1960, the clam limit was reduced to 18. In 1973, the seasons were further reduced, and in 1974, the 15 clam limit we are familiar with today was implemented. In 2000, the seasons became much less set in stone and varied from October to May, depending on counts conducted through the “pumped area” method. In 2004, WDFW switched to the system still in use today, the “adjusted exploitation rate” method. Management strategies are ever evolving based on the increasing amounts of clam diggers every year, and changing oceanic conditions.

There are 3 pieces to the puzzle that WDFW must take into account before announcing razor clam digs: population counts, domoic acid levels, and tribal rights. The first piece of the puzzle is population counts. Each summer, WDFW conducts population counts at every beach: Long Beach, Twin Harbors, Copalis, Mocrocks, and Kalaloch. Based on these counts, they estimate the total number of clams measuring under 3 inches, and the total number of clams measuring over 3 inches.

They allow a certain percentage of razor clam population over 3 inches to be harvested each year, in order to make sure the population stays sustainable for years to come. Up to 40% of razor clams 3 inches and above may be harvested every year for the population to remain sustainable. After every harvest, WDFW calculates the remaining TAC (total allowable harvest), and sets further days based on that number. This way, poor tidal conditions and weather don’t mean we get shorter seasons. Alternatively, if conditions are great and there are more harvesters than predicted, the season may close early on that beach. Population counts are closely monitored throughout the year to make sure this popular fishery will remain for years to come.

Before WDFW opens recreational harvesting, they must also determine whether the clams are safe to eat. WDFW’s goals are not only to keep the resource around for years to come, but also to protect public health and safety. Unfortunately, clams are subject to accumulating marine toxins in their bodies which can make harvesters sick. Harmful algae blooms are naturally occurring, but concentrate in razor clam tissue. The most prevalent toxin is domoic acid, caused by consumption of marine plankton, called diatoms.

Eating a razor clam that has high levels of domoic acid can cause nausea, dizziness, memory loss, and stroke-like symptoms. There is no antidote, and the toxin is not destroyed by cooking/freezing. WDFW carefully tests razor clam populations for domoic acid throughout the year, and will close seasons accordingly, even if TAC (total allowable catch) hasn’t been met.

The final piece which WDFW must take into account is tribal fishing rights. Each year in August, WDFW discusses population estimates and domoic acid levels with the coastal tribes that have fishing rights on razor clam beaches, and comes up with the total allowable catch (TAC). 50% of the TAC goes to recreational fishermen and 50% goes to the tribes.

The coastal tribes work with WDFW staff to come up with joint population assessments, and share their data together. Tribal seasons take place on different days than non-tribal seasons, and each group makes their own harvest estimates and enforces the rules themselves. Razor clams are a co-managed resource that tribal and non-tribal stakeholders take very seriously.

Beach has by far the largest TAC (total allowable catch) share at 5,865,490 clams, and Mocrocks has the smallest, at 1,964,732. Interestingly, the average size of clams is slightly smaller this year. Last year, they were 4.4 inches long, and this year they were 4.22 inches on average. Although the clams are a little smaller, there are plenty of them! Overall, the forecast looks promising. WDFW always tries to schedule razor clam digs on weekends at least once a month during the months of October through May. The WDFW director checks marine toxin levels and looks at the remaining TAC for the year before announcing that the harvest dates can proceed. Clam digs have been tentatively approved throughout November and December.

In an unprecedented move, WDFW increased the limits from 15 to 20 razor clams last year. Will it happen again this year? For now, keep an ear to the ground and always check your rules and regulations before heading out. Speaking of rules and regulations, it’s always a good idea to brush up.

Make sure each harvester has their own container to put clams in. Many sporting goods stores sell clam nets, which readily tie to your wading belt to keep your hands free for digging and holding flashlights. Remember that the first 15 clams dug must be kept, no matter the size or condition. We’ve all accidentally crunched clams while digging them, or dug up a tiny one, but they still must be retained as part of your 15-clam limit. That being said, there are plenty of clams out there to be had. It’s shaping up to be a good year, so go out and get those razor clams!

Summer is an exciting season for bass anglers. The bass are done spawning and are actively feeding in both the shallows as well as deeper depths. There are also a variety of ways to catch bass, both largemouth and smallmouth, this time of year.

Perhaps the most exciting way to catch bass during the summer months is using topwater baits. Watching a largemouth bass explode out of the water to smash your lure is always an exhilarating experience! Just make sure you don’t set the hook when the bass comes out of the water. Pause and let them take it first. Easy to say, I know, but hard to do.

When it comes to topwater fishing, have a frog rigged up on at least one rod.  Whether you use a standard frog or a popping frog, you have the advantage of fishing this weedless offering in heavy cover, whether it be weeds, grass, or lily pads.

If you are casting into more open water, I like to fish a topwater popper.  My go-to popper is a Berkley Bullet Pop in either a bluegill, bass, or frog pattern. The Whopper Plopper made quite a splash in the bass fishing world when it was introduced in 2008, and many anglers insist it’s still a great offering. However, this is a low-confidence lure for me, and while I’ve had a blow-up or two, I’ve yet to catch a fish with a whopper plopper.

And then there are the classics. The Arbogast Jitterbug and Hula Popper have been around for over 70 years, but they still work, especially in the evening hours. Speaking of which, when is the best time to fish with a topwater lure? Conventional wisdom says you should fish topwater lures in the early morning and in the evening.  However, if the weather is cloudy, you can experience good topwater fishing all day long.

LIPLESS CRANKBAITS

Lipless crankbaits like the original Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap or my favorite, the Berkley War Pig, are great search lures. You can cast them a “country mile” and retrieve at a fast or moderate pace, which means you can cover a lot of water while looking for schools of bass. Places to fish lipless crankbaits are in shallow water (two to eight feet deep), especially parallel to brush lines, weed lines, or near points of land. These lures also work well over submerged grass or weed beds. One thing that can be particularly effective is to pause your retrieve, just for a moment, from time to time while you reel.

SPINNERBAITS

The spinnerbait, like the lipless crankbait, is used to search for schools of bass. One advantage the spinnerbait has is that, by design, it is more snag-proof than lipless crankbaits or topwater plugs with treble hooks. The spinner bait can be fished a couple of different ways in the summer. You can fish it mid-depth with a moderate retrieve, just under the surface of the water, creating a wake, with a fast retrieve. Or slow roll it, letting the spinnerbait sink to the bottom in six to 15 feet of water and bringing it slowly back just off the bottom. While ¼ and 3/8-ounce spinnerbaits are widely sold, I prefer to use a ½ or ¾ ounce spinnerbait, especially if I am fishing deep.

DEEP DIVING CRANKBAITS

High summer temperatures will drive those bass into deeper waters, especially smallmouth bass. So, how do you reach them? With a deep diving crankbait! Rapala and Berkley are two lure companies that make quality deep-diving crankbaits. I tend to use two types of crankbaits in the summer months. That would be lures that dive 8 to 12 feet deep and lures that will dive to 25 feet deep. Once you locate the fish, you can stay put and cast to them or switch over to a jig to pull bass out of the deep. As for crankbait colors, I try to “match the hatch” and use patterns that are forage for bass. Trout, perch, bluegill, and largemouth bass patterns all work well if these species live where you are fishing.

JIGS

I always have a weedless jig with a crawfish trailer tied on to one of my rods because they catch bass in the spring, summer and fall months. They can be fished in partially submerged brush, under docks, around beaver huts, trees and other areas where bass live, but other lures would get hung up.

 Jigs can also be fished in deeper water on sloping banks, on underwater humps and other structure. Your choice is also wide. In addition to weedless jigs, you can fish neko rigs, which work great for smallmouth bass, and swim jigs, which have become a favorite for many bass anglers.

SOFT PLASTICS

You can’t go wrong fishing soft plastic baits. Drop Shot fishing with a weight a foot or two below a hook tied on the same line can work great, especially on heavily pressured waters. Put a small 4-inch worm or other small plastic grub or swimbait on your hook and just drop it to the bottom. Texas-rigged worms still work great for bass on the bottom, as do the tried-and-true Carolina rig, where a weight and glass bead are placed above a swivel. A foot to 18 inches of leader with a worm is tied behind that. Finally, tube baits, which were all the rage 25 years ago, still work fine today for bass.

The bottom line is this: When it comes to catching bass this summer, you have a lot of options. Don’t get stuck on one or two baits. If they are not working, try something new. As you can see, there is more than one way to catch a bass.

John Kruse

www.northwesternoutdoors.com

A fishing derby? I'd better set up a team and sign up. I’m the “Fish Whisperer", my buddies and I can outfish anybody! Actually, that’s not fair. Although the fame and money would be nice. Most people sign up for a derby just to participate in the event and to enjoy the camaraderie and fellowship. Winning would be a sidebar to enjoying the fishing trip, enhancing the overall experience.

Fishing derbies and tournaments for just about everything that swims are organized throughout the country each year. In the US, there are 30,000-50,000 derbies and tournaments organized each year. In 2023, there were around 58 million licensed anglers. Even if only a small percentage of licensed anglers participate in an event, participation could range from 1.5 million to 5 million anglers annually. 

Here in the Pacific Northwest, there are derbies for trout, kokanee, walleye, tuna, salmon, surf perch, halibut, razor clams, and chowder cook-offs. There may be derbies targeting other species, and those anglers will know the whens and wheres. The basics of this article will cover all species.

Although over the years the Castello clan has enjoyed occasional success while participating in various derbies, overall success has been metered. That said, I’ve had many “almost” in the money derby experiences. 

Many years ago, while fishing in a big money tuna tournament out of Ensenada, Mexico, we hooked a large big eye tuna with just hours to go before the weigh-in. By the time the fish was secured on deck, we only had a short few hours to make a 40+ mile run back to the marina for weigh-in. Despite having one of the fastest boats in the tournament, we did not make the weigh-in queue in time.  We were quite the talk around town, but made the drive back to the border with nothing more than a stack of swag bags and my own flip-flop print on my board shorts.

Then locally, with a derby contender, coho on ice, I’ve missed the weigh-in for the Everett Coho Derby by probably 15 minutes because of another last-minute fish. These were all skipper miscalculations where I knew the rules but pushed the time limit. The list goes on, but you get the idea. These kinds of errors can be minimized by creating a plan and then sticking with it.

If you plan to fish a derby or tournament, have a plan! Although it doesn’t hurt, your plan does not need to be written out. Either way, you and your fishing partners need to sit down and come up with a plan for derby day.

In working out a plan, consider basic things like getting enough sleep, being on time, and not showing up at the dock hung over. 

One of the first items to discuss is how to handle winnings. On my boat, there is usually an agreement that all winnings are split evenly. Occasionally, we just let the prize go to the person catching the fish, but either way, this should be agreed upon before Derby morning. If a juvenile is part of the team, they always get their winnings in full. 

There are many variations of how to distribute derby winnings. The team should consider a means of covering the day's expenses, such as fuel, launch fees, and moorage. Back to my boat, I usually cover the boat-related expenses, fuel, bait, and provide all the gear, but this is a team decision. Again, discuss winnings as an element of your derby plan, friendships depend on it!

In your derby plan, you should also discuss your catch rotation. Again, on my boat, we do a rotation through solid hookups with the skipper being last. Many teams will take a more traditional route where each angler runs with their personal gear, but this is a team decision. 

Your derby plan needs to address technique, gear, and location. It is important that the boat fishes as a team, and everyone knows what to expect. At the end of the day, you want everybody to have fun and feel like they had an equal say in your potential success or if so, disappointment.

The plan should include an agreement for a meeting place, time, and ensure the skipper has everyone’s phone numbers. Also, decide what each angler should bring. Example: ice, lunch, derby tickets, license, and gear if required. Maybe also discuss parking and usage fees at the launch area.

For derby day, you want your deck as clear as possible, so it could be a good idea to address storage space and limit personal items. Use a common ice chest for fish. I have a case of fish bags, and each angler gets 1 for their Derby catch.

Back to location, your derby day plan should include an agreement regarding fishing location throughout the day or changes required for changing conditions. This is especially important when fishing in marine areas influenced by the tides.

The skipper is responsible for making sure the boat and gear are ready for derby day.  This includes a rod and reel check, replacing line and or top shots as required. I always have a backup rod or three on the boat. Typically, I have two nets on board anyway, but having two nets available is especially important on derby day.

Depending on the derby, it is also important that at least one other team member can run the boat, drive the tow vehicle, and be familiar with the boat’s electronics. (Mostly in case the team gets tired of the skipper and the flipping plan, thus throwing the skipper overboard.) 

As the skipper, I find Derby days pretty stressful. To be honest, I experienced this for any fishing trip, but for me derby day is worse. It’s not that I’m not having fun, but I feel a true responsibility towards my crew’s success.  

That said, don't forget to have fun. Turn setbacks into opportunities and laugh in the face of calamity.  Winning is icing on the cake of an otherwise enjoyable fishing trip.  By developing a derby day plan, the skipper and crew are more likely to enjoy the day, even increasing their chances of putting a fish on the leader board.

Be the best big stick by slowing down the presentation and lightening the tippet. 

Last year, in early June, we fished a small reservoir in the high desert. Like a lot of private waters in Central Oregon, the lake had tules along one side and willows on the other. 

We started in float tubes, backing into the water, then settling in. 

My dad called out that he was seeing lots of damselflies. For which I thanked him and immediately tied on a damselfly imitation. 

Kicking away from the launch into deeper water, I observed midges, PMDs, snails, dragonflies, and damsels.

My first fish to the net was a 21-inch rainbow. Dad was on the other side of the lake and could not get a picture for me. While I was using a damsel, I was thinking about how I usually like to start with a Renegade or a Brown Hackle or some other snail imitation.  

A person has a chance in the first hour of daylight to catch trout close-in to the tules on snail patterns before the fish sense the vehicle traffic or start to feel pressured by people in float tubes. But a lot of my friends don't want to fish using snails. It is not something they think about. Why would fish eat snails? And what do snails even look like? I think the real reason a lot of us don't fish using snails is because we are too restless. The snail just sits there on the surface or just under it. Until a trout eats it. It is so simple to fish snails. 

The best thing to do is walk along the reed beds and scout the weed lines with polarized glasses. Look for swirls. Look for shaking tules. Watch for fins and tails or the white gum line as a trout opens its mouth and flares its gills. 

Pattern choice is as simple as it gets. A No. 10 Woolly Worm. A Brown Hackle. A Renegade. These are all suggestive of snails when fished at snail speed. Cast or dap, and let it sit. Wait for the butt of the fly line or the leader to move. The fish will often have to change course to take the fly, so as the trout turns, it will feel the fly and spit it. Don't wait to feel the take, set the hook when the leader starts to move. After the sun comes up, the fish tend to retreat to deeper water, and now is the time to switch to a leech, damsel nymph, or dragonfly nymph. 

While it is tempting to use old standbys like the Woolly Bugger or even the Thin Mint, don't forget, the fish have seen all these flies before. We can catch more fish if we use lifelike patterns that are faithful to the profile, contrast, and color of the food source, but also incorporate rubber legs, gill movement, and eyes. 

It's okay to experiment with retrieve, but in general, these critters don't move fast and can spend a lot of time at rest. One-inch increments are my rule for retrieves. Unless I am fishing a minnow imitation. 

We need to be more patient and precise with our presentations. Once I watched a guy in a float tube. He was using the right fly, but his tube was underinflated, so when he kicked, he leaned way back, transmitting all of that back-and-forth motion to his fly rod and his fly. His fly was probably making two-foot moves. No bug does that. Some guys don't like to be told what they are doing wrong, so I just kept my mouth shut. While the guy's buddy caught half a dozen trout that morning, this guy didn't land one. The difference between a poor day of fishing and a good day might just be the way the fly swims. 

A good presentation is one where the bug swims and rests naturally. Since real bugs don't get towed around on lines, we have to minimize the way the line affects the movement of the fly. The smaller the tippet, the more that the fly will work in the water like the tyer intended. If you have been using 3X, go down to 4X tippet or even 5X on smaller flies. Don’t forget, fluorocarbon was made so that you can catch more fish. And the guy with fluoro will probably out-fish the guy with mono five-to-one if everything else is equal. 

Like it or not, you might have to learn a new knot. Try a non-slip or a perfection loop and see how the fly behaves differently at rest. My biggest fish of the morning was a 25-incher with a thick wrist, one of my best trout of the year. But it was in the late afternoon with a low-pressure system coming in when I earned a 20-inch rainbow. 

"What are you using?" Dad wanted to know.

"A damselfly."

"Oh, good idea," Dad said. "Why didn't you tell me earlier?"

"Because you told me, I figured you already knew."

"Oh yeah, I'm pretty smart," Dad said.

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For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709 To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

Omak Lake, nestled within the picturesque landscape of Washington State, is a hidden gem for anglers seeking the thrill of catching Lahontan cutthroat trout. This expansive body of water is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and the bountiful presence of this unique trout species.

 The Lahontan cutthroat trout (Oncorhynchus clarkii henshawi) is native to the Lahontan Basin of Nevada, Eastern California, and Southern Oregon. These trout are well-adapted to the alkaline and saline conditions of the region, making Omak Lake an ideal habitat. Lahontan cutthroat trout are known for their striking appearance, characterized by vivid red and orange hues along their sides and beneath their jaws. They can grow to impressive sizes, with the Washington State record at 18.04 pounds and was caught out of Omak Lake.

Omak Lake is located on the Colville Confederated Tribes Reservation, and is 3,244 acres, nestled in a high desert of rolling sagebrush hills. The prime fishing season at Omak Lake runs from early spring to late autumn. During these months, the water temperatures are optimal for trout activity, and the fish are more likely to be found near the surface. The early mornings and late afternoons are particularly productive times for fishing, as the trout are more active in these cooler hours

Due to its large size and regulations by the tribe that protects the shallow shorelines in the northern part of the lake during the May spawning period, this is primarily a boat fishery. As the lake begins to thaw in March and warms up through May, the regulations change from a catch and keep to a catch and release fishery, which means using fly gear or single barbless hooks on lures and no bait. Just like the other popular Lahontan waters in Washington, the fish start cruising the shallows and shorelines looking for creeks and sources of cold water for spawning.

Fly rod toting anglers usually target these areas with the same standard flies for Lake Lenore, another Lahontan Cutthroat producing lake in Washington. A black or green whooly bugger in size 8 to 4, or very small bead head chironomids in sizes 14 to 18. A heavy 6-weight rod is best since fish can be measured in pounds over inches, but some anglers will use a 5-weight or even a 4-weight. Sinking lines and the ability to cast in an afternoon thermal breeze are a must. 

For those who prefer to use a spinning or casting rod, using lures such as spoons, spinners, and soft plastics can be highly effective. These lures mimic the movements of baitfish and can provoke aggressive strikes from predatory trout. Top producing lures to try are the Luhr-Jensen Krocodile spoon in the frog pattern and Dick Nites in silver and chartreuse. Another option is to troll the F4 Kwik Fish in a frog pattern. For both fly fishermen and gear trollers can do very well using a Smile Blade Fly by Macks Lure, which is a whooly bugger with a smile blade in front as a “go to” fly. For the gear guys, simply put a few split shots a foot or two above the fly and troll at slow speed. The fly anglers should use a slow-sinking tippet line and strip it in slowly.

Fishing for Lahontan cutthroat trout at Omak Lake is more than just a sport; it's an experience that connects anglers with nature. The serene beauty of the lake, surrounded by rolling hills and open skies, creates a tranquil setting for a day on the water. What makes this trip to Omak Lake unique is that you are fishing a part of history.

First, the region itself should be explored. It is rich in Native American culture. In fact, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, who gave the famous surrendering speech “I will fight no more forever” died on the Colville Reservation in 1904 and is buried at Nespelem. The Grand Coulee Dam is bringing back its laser night show during the summer months, and just seeing this dam is worth the nearby side trip. There are also several trails to hike and, of course, the Columbia River to fish if you want to add other places to cast a line.

Omak Lake received its first plantings of Lahontan Cutthroats in 1968, which is noted in a report “Colville Lakes Compendium, Limiting Factors, and Management Plan” published by John Arterburn in 2003. These fish were a cross of rainbow hybrids from Lake Heenan in California and Lahontan’s from Pyramid Lake in Nevada. The reason why these fish were put in the lake was due to its alkalinity. Back in 1953 a netting of the lake revealed only chum suckers lived there.

The lake was stocked with rainbows from 1950 to 1960, and in 1956, brook trout were planted. None of these fish survived, so in 1968, they tried the Lahontan’s which did well in the alkaline waters with successful fishing since 1975. A creel census that the tribes conducted from 1975 to 2001, over 26 years of data showed that the average fish caught weighed just under 2 ½ pounds, with most of the fish in the 19 to 20 inch range, but some fish were recorded over 30 inches, including that state record of 18 pounds.

You will need a fishing permit from the tribe. For non-tribal members, the cost is $10 for a single-day use permit, a three-day permit is $20, a seven-day is $30, and the yearly permit is $40. Also, get a copy of the current regulations as it will describe the closed waters, closed shorelines to all access, and also give launch sites that can be used by non-tribal members. There is some camping available, but again, contact the tribe for more information.

Before going to Omak, you should contact the Colville Confederated Tribes Fish and Wildlife Department for current regulations and also where to launch. The Mission Bay launch was recently closed, and other launches are mostly for small watercraft. A launch permit is also needed in addition to a fishing license. The south end of the lake’s shoreline is closed to non-tribal members, and the north end is closed to fishing. 

Colville Tribes Fish & Wildlife Department can be contacted at:

Front Desk (509) 634-2110

Main website: https://www.cct-fnw.com/

It's that time of year again, trout fishing has finally kicked off! May is a great time to take your family out to your local lake. WDFW stocks many lakes with thousands of catchable size rainbow trout every spring. These fish are hungry and active, and taste great on the grill. There's nothing like a relaxing day of fishing followed by a good trout dinner. Let's talk about my favorite Western Washington trout lakes. I will include lakes with both boat ramps and good shore access on this list. 

American Lake

Let's kick off this list with a beloved Pierce County lake. There are multiple boat ramps and shore access spots on this large lake. This is a popular spot for jet skis and pleasure boaters, so exercise caution if you're on a small boat. This lake is deeper and larger than most lakes in the area. The fish can be a bit more difficult to find since they have room to spread out. However, WDFW usually plants twenty thousand or more fish, so your odds are pretty good! Try fishing the shore or dock at Harry Todd Park, or pay a small fee to fish at Bill's Boathouse. They also offer boat rentals. If the trout aren't biting, you can also try your luck for yellow perch.

Lake Ballinger

This northern lake has good shore access and a large fishing pier. It's a great spot for fishermen with small boats, rafts, or kayaks. Gasoline motors are not permitted, so you won't have to worry about getting blown off the water by jet skis or large boats. The south end of the lake is a bit deeper, and that's where the fish tend to hang out. 

Mineral Lake

This lake is a bit off the beaten path, but you have the best chance of scoring a trophy trout here. There is a fishing dock and decent shore access. You'll have company on weekends, however. There are also brown trout in this lake! A word of caution for boaters- there are many stumps on the lake, and some are difficult to see. Keep an eye out! 

Black Lake

Located close to Olympia, this popular lake boasts a variety of different kinds of fish. If the trout aren't biting, try for panfish! There is good shore access at the park and boat launch. WDFW has planted over twenty thousand trout here this spring. 

Lake Padden

No list of West side trout lakes is complete without this one. It has some of the best shore access around! The shoreline is dotted with families enjoying a tranquil day on the water. There is a boat launch, but gasoline motors are not allowed. This lake is small and shallow, I'd definitely recommend soaking dough baits or using a bobber and worm. 

Harts Lake

This secluded, serene lake has amazing scenery and even better fishing. There is a small campground, pay to fish dock, and tackle shop right next to the boat ramp. Troll around the edges of the lake until you figure out where the fish are holding, it seems to change frequently. You can also drop anchor and toss dough bait. This lake is also great for catfish, the shore fills up with fishermen on hot summer nights. 

Remember to check the weather forecast before heading out, bring life jackets, and put on plenty of sunscreen! For the best meat quality, bleed, gut, and ice your fish right away. Most importantly, have a great time! Rainbow trout put up a good fight for their size and are eager biters. They are easy for kids to handle because they don't have spines on their body like many other fish. May is the perfect time to go out and explore your local lake! 

If you’ve fished anywhere off the coast of Washington state, chances are at some point you’ve landed a rockfish, or depending on who you talk to, a black seabass. While rockfish are often seen as only a bonus catch during the pursuit of something larger, like lingcod, they are, in my opinion, some of the best-eating fish that swim along our coastline. The name “Rockfish” is an umbrella term that encompasses over 100 different species of fish, but the ones we most commonly fish for here in the northwest are the canary rockfish, black rockfish, blue rockfish, and deacon rockfish. 

Where to fish

Though Rockfish do inhabit the waters of the Puget Sound, it is illegal to retain or target them here due to conservation concerns. As you move northwest into the straights of Juan De Fuca, you’ll find that the populations of rockfish become healthier and fishing opportunity increases the closer you get to the Pacific Ocean. Marine Area 5 (Sekiu) is where allowable rockfish retention begins, though as of 2025, in MA 5, you can only retain 1 rockfish per day. Moving further west to MA 4 (Neah Bay) the possession limit increases to 7 and the season is year-round.

Aside from Neah Bay and Sekiu in Clallam Bay, you can also target rockfish southward along the Washington coast around Westport, Ocean Shores, and Pacific County near the mouth of the Columbia River. Boat fishing Rockfish tend to prefer deeper waters near rocky structures, reefs, kelp beds, or even shipwrecks, which in general makes fishing from shore not a viable option (though there are some exceptions). Fishing from boats, kayaks, or canoes, are generally the most effective method. And because rockfish are such aggressive feeders, it makes them a great species to target when bringing the family along on a boating trip, as these fish aren’t terribly difficult to catch.

Most soft plastic grubs on a 1-3 oz lead jig-head can entice a bite. Use lighter-weight jigs-heads when the current is mild, and heavier jig-heads during strong currents. The amount of sunlight should influence your choice of jig colors. I try to stick with darker color soft plastics during overcast days and brighter colors on sunny days. Flashy metal jigs anywhere from 2-4 oz can prove phenomenal for catching rockfish as well.

My favorite jig as of lately has been a 2.5 oz blue and silver laser minnow, and I seem to catch rockfish on this regardless of weather conditions and current strength. Most of the rockfish you catch will likely be around 2-3 lbs (though they can get much larger), considering this, they are a blast to catch on lightweight gear. However, larger fish like lingcod and cabezon will bite at the same jigs and lures as rockfish, so anglers should be prepared for this potential. I almost always run 25 lb braided mainline with a 20 lb monofilament leader off of a 6-7 ft medium light rod and find this to be a good middle of the road setup.

Jetty fishing

Though boat fishing may be the most effective method for catching rockfish, land dwellers should not fret because there are options for folks who prefer to stay off the water! Jetties or rocky outcroppings that extend into deep water offer ample opportunity for a limit of rockfish. The Westport jetty, the north jetty in Ocean Shores, and the Columbia River north jetty all allow somewhat easy access to this fishery. Furthermore, if you normally fish out of a boat for rockfish, and have had plenty of success over the years, you might find that the process, though fun, can eventually become a bit repetitive.

Jetty fishing offers a welcome change of pace as it provides an altogether different experience and requires different techniques and tackle to land the fish. When fishing from a jetty, netting the fish off the rocks isn’t always an option. This means you will have to lift the fish out of the water with your rod and line. That process can put an excessive amount of strain on your line, thus, jetty anglers should stick with a 25-40 lb mainline and 20-25 lb leader.

A soft plastic swim bait lure with a weight of 1/2 - 1 oz weight between your mainline and leader will allow your gear to fall deep enough into the water column while also remaining high enough to avoid snagging on the rocks. If you run a soft plastic jig, you can retrieve, jig and repeat. For a swim bait, anglers can find success by either doing a steady retrieve or by doing a steady retrieve with an occasional jig or twitch. Safety is a major concern while fishing on jetties. With this in mind, anglers should monitor weather, tides, and swell activity. During extreme conditions, waves can crash onto the jetties and pose a risk for anyone who’s on the rocks. Refer to NOAA for weather conditions and surf reports for swell and wave activity. Hiking boots, felt-soled boots, or even toe-shoes are favored by jetty anglers for walking around on wet rocks. 

The rockfish fishery is a great way to get back out onto the water and get the sun back on your face as we crawl out of our long Pacific Northwest winter. Whether you're launching a kayak at Hobuck beach in Neah Bay, motoring out onto the straights, or climbing around on some rocks at the Westport jetty, there’s nothing better than introducing the upcoming summer season with a cooler full of rockfish and a fish taco dinner at home with the family.

Make no mistake, kokanee can see up, down, and all around. They see close up and farther out (depending on water clarity) at the same time, but not as clearly as we can. They can see effectively behind them as they swim, because their undulating swimming motion turns the head just far enough to see very near the plane of the tail.

Color Shift At Depth

Since sight is part of the effective formula, you must make sight important in your presentation. The very last thing you want is for your lure to be camouflaged. You want it to be noticed. You work against yourself if your target winds up being camouflaged because you have not accounted for the three things that change your lure's appearance at depth:

• Lack of light at target depth;
• Color shift (attenuation), making your lure dull gray; and
• Lack of contrast (conveys information about shape and form)

Consider what it is that you are trying to do. You want your setup color-wise to be different than the water surrounding it. If your setup contrasts with the water it is in, it has a far greater chance to be noticed and targeted. Remember, we are seeking a striking response. Your setup must appear different than the predominant color of the surrounding water at that depth.

As we descend the water column, certain light wave frequencies are absorbed (because water absorbs light). Here is the other prong of that absorption concept. As we go deeper in the water column, some of the colors we see at the surface will no longer be the same color at depth. At this point in the discussion, I am speaking of ordinary colors - the color spectrum we can see. Fluorescent colors will be discussed in a moment.

The longest visible color wavelengths are the reds. Shorter in descending order are orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. As you descend the water column, the longer wavelengths are absorbed, leaving the shorter wavelengths to continue down the water column. Those shorter wavelengths will ultimately be absorbed, even in the clearest of water, provided you go deep enough. The kokanee fisherman is dealing with depths generally down to 100 feet, give or take. The typical kokanee body of water will have no light in the later season beyond 75 feet. In the very early season, there may be no light at 30 feet.

As you recall from last month’s article, the proper target depth for kokanee fishing is 54 degrees. And since that temperature descends the water column as the season wears on, the resulting less light at your target depth also means that certain ordinary colors are no longer what they appeared to be on the surface because their wavelengths have been absorbed. If you use such a color at depth, your presentation will be gray and not have much contrast to the water it is in.

A lure of ordinary red will virtually disappear in but a few feet of water. Soon to follow would be the ordinary orange, ordinary yellow, and then ordinary green. Also, about that time would be ordinary indigo and ordinary violet due to the structure of water and the use by phytoplankton of these frequencies. If you take an ordinary red object into a dark closet and shine orange light on it, the red object will appear gray. If you take an ordinary green object, and test it the same way with blue light, the green object will appear gray.

For the object to be seen in its correct color, it has to be struck by a light frequency of equal or higher wavelength. In these examples, if you take a green object and strike it with red light, it will appear green. If you take the green object and strike it with orange light, it will still be green. For ordinary colors, the deeper you go, the very light necessary for that color to be that color, has likely been absorbed in the water before you reach your target depth. Without the right light wavelength hitting it, it will be dull gray and not at all distinctive to the water that surrounds it. The little remaining visible light at depth makes the dullness even duller

Our lures are rarely of a pure color wavelength. But even the mixing of colors (hues) will still be subject to the same color deterioration at depth. Pink is a good example. Pink is not a color of the visible spectrum, but is a mixing of red and white. White is not a color of the spectrum, but is all colors of the visible spectrum. Thus in pink, a little of the color will respond to green and blue wavelength at depth. But the color intensity will be mostly dull. From what you now know, ordinary pink is not the ideal choice for getting noticed at depth.

While this might seem confusing to us above water, it is still the reality of the color situation in the water and at depth. Perhaps some encouragement is in order. To be "expert" of color at depth you need not memorize anything. Because most of our kokanee fishing occurs in green or blue light wave frequencies, we want all of our presentations to show up in green and blue light.

Fluorescent Colors

Enter the amazing world of fluorescent colors. No intense scientific discussion is needed here. What you need to know is this. A true fluorescent color will remain its color when struck by a lower light wave frequency. If a true fluorescent orange is struck by a green light (lower frequency than orange light), it will remain orange. The same is true for all of the fluorescent colors. And that means that if you use true fluorescent colors in your setup, your setup will be seen at depth. True fluorescent colors tend to be brighter as well, making for higher visibility.

Not all materials on the tackle market are of true fluorescent colors. You can easily test whether a color is a true fluorescent by taking your lures and dodgers into a dark closet and then shining a black or UV light on them. If the color seen is the color you saw in full light, you have a fluorescent color. Again, there is a difference in intensity of the color. Just because a material is fluorescent does not automatically mean it is intense.

U.V. light is below the visible spectrum (of lower wave frequency), which means it cannot be seen directly. All U.V. light is dissipated in very shallow fresh water holding kokanee, because the water, plankton and other particulates in the water absorb all of it. It is well documented that there will be no U.V. light in the freshwater column below just a few feet. 

I have tested lures labeled "U.V." Most work very well in waters holding kokanee, and in particular, the UV squids should be a part of your tackle box. However, lures labeled "U.V." would be more accurately labeled as "fluorescent." These "U.V." lures come in visible colors. Since UV is not visible, the color you see is fluorescent. As with all fluorescent colors, stimulation by a black light will make the color jump out at you. But these lures are in fact, only fluorescent. But that is why they are good. They still need some visible light at depth to be most effective. They do not glow. Match one of these "UV" (fluorescent) squids with a Fish With Gary™ POWER Dodger, and you have a great setup.

Using true fluorescent materials in your setup will resolve issues of color shift in your favor. While some fluorescent colors will fade somewhat the deeper you are in the water column, they still are not gray if there is some light available to act on them. When using true fluorescent materials, the colors you are delivering at depth are those NOT ordinarily seen at depth. And that is exactly the effect you want. Your setup will be out of the ordinary, and kokanee will focus on it in the near field.

Vital Contrast

Using fluorescent materials is not the only way to get your setup noticed. Remember that you are after contrast, or what I call vital contrast. Vital contrast can be obtained by using different fluorescent colors next to each other or spaced in such a way as to create the illusion of not being connected. Components that contrast with themselves will stand out even more in dull watery depth.

Contrast is the enemy of camouflage. Contrast is the better-developed part of kokanee vision and encompasses about 10 times larger visual window area than does color. The color window is directly in front of the kokanee, but contrast is not only seen in front, it is seen up, down, sideways, and backwards. Contrast vision overlaps color vision. Effectively presented, color is a great contrast. When color and contrast are effectively presented, color and contrast are in front of the kokanee to see and react to them. This allows the kokanee to put its mouth where the color is, which is pretty much what you want!!

Glows

There is another fantastic way to achieve this vital contrast at depth, and that is the use of glows. Glows are termed phosphorescent (or luminescent) as they carry their own light to depth. No intense scientific discussion is needed here either. Glows emit light when the light source that charges them is removed. On the other hand, fluorescent materials appear brighter in light, but do not glow when that light is removed.

Most glows on the market and peddled to fisherman are of very poor quality. Their glow simply does not last even long enough to make it to depth, let alone work for you at depth.

All Fish With Gary™ glows are of the highest quality and are termed extended glows for good reason. The natural glow beads in particular will glow for hours on a simple charge of sunlight for a few minutes. Stimulation of glows by using a black light is not very efficient, and the resulting glow does not last as long as sunlight stimulation.

Glows clearly take on more importance when the level of light is less in the water column. As you descend below light in the water column in later season, glows make visible what would otherwise be invisible. And if the surrounding water is pitch black, the glow of light most certainly is the kind of dramatic contrast that will get your setup noticed.

The Ideal Presentation

The ideal presentation in achieving vital contrast is one that makes generous use of fluorescent materials and glows, arranged in such a way to be in contrast with each other and in contrast with the surrounding water. And this is exactly what is incorporated into the entire Fish With Gary™ Tackle line.

While the dodger blade attracts far field (long distance), the beads, and the spinner(s) on the leading wire are near field (short distance) attractors.

Here is what is going on with the beads and spinner in front of the dodger. Because the beads and spinner(s) are being moved about by the dodger, they are creating short field sound. The spinner(s) do not consistently spin as you would expect. Instead, their movement in the water makes the spinner(s) come in contact with the glass beads. Metal versus glass produces a sound. In this case the two produce an irregular sound that alternates with some spinning, and some "tap-tap" of the metal on the glass.

There is nothing in nature that this imitates, and this sequence of short field sound is itself a contrast to the natural water environment. Add to this is the natural movement of the glass beads working against themselves as this setup is whipped through the water. And all of this is going on while your dodger is still producing far field sound, attracting other kokanee to your setup. A gathering of kokanee is more likely to result in a strike than a single kokanee.

While your sound generating machine is working, your kokanee has been drawn close enough so that the colors and contrasts are within its sight window. A curious thing happens at this point. Having been drawn to the sound, the kokanee will see a particular color and contrast sequence. Once seen, this color and contrast sequence effectively imprints the kokanee with that combination, even if briefly. If your dodger and the upfront beads and spinner are of the same color and contrast, you increase that imprinting. And if your lure is of the same color and contrast, then you give the kokanee a target that it does not fear. That is why it is absolutely critical that your dodger setup and the lure be matched.

The lure is making short field vibrations and adding color and contrast, and adding scent.

So now you have the complete picture. Far field vibrations attract, short field vibrations and colors in consistent vital contrast imprint the kokanee and provoke the strike.