oregon fishing

Be the best big stick by slowing down the presentation and lightening the tippet. 

Last year, in early June, we fished a small reservoir in the high desert. Like a lot of private waters in Central Oregon, the lake had tules along one side and willows on the other. 

We started in float tubes, backing into the water, then settling in. 

My dad called out that he was seeing lots of damselflies. For which I thanked him and immediately tied on a damselfly imitation. 

Kicking away from the launch into deeper water, I observed midges, PMDs, snails, dragonflies, and damsels.

My first fish to the net was a 21-inch rainbow. Dad was on the other side of the lake and could not get a picture for me. While I was using a damsel, I was thinking about how I usually like to start with a Renegade or a Brown Hackle or some other snail imitation.  

A person has a chance in the first hour of daylight to catch trout close-in to the tules on snail patterns before the fish sense the vehicle traffic or start to feel pressured by people in float tubes. But a lot of my friends don't want to fish using snails. It is not something they think about. Why would fish eat snails? And what do snails even look like? I think the real reason a lot of us don't fish using snails is because we are too restless. The snail just sits there on the surface or just under it. Until a trout eats it. It is so simple to fish snails. 

The best thing to do is walk along the reed beds and scout the weed lines with polarized glasses. Look for swirls. Look for shaking tules. Watch for fins and tails or the white gum line as a trout opens its mouth and flares its gills. 

Pattern choice is as simple as it gets. A No. 10 Woolly Worm. A Brown Hackle. A Renegade. These are all suggestive of snails when fished at snail speed. Cast or dap, and let it sit. Wait for the butt of the fly line or the leader to move. The fish will often have to change course to take the fly, so as the trout turns, it will feel the fly and spit it. Don't wait to feel the take, set the hook when the leader starts to move. After the sun comes up, the fish tend to retreat to deeper water, and now is the time to switch to a leech, damsel nymph, or dragonfly nymph. 

While it is tempting to use old standbys like the Woolly Bugger or even the Thin Mint, don't forget, the fish have seen all these flies before. We can catch more fish if we use lifelike patterns that are faithful to the profile, contrast, and color of the food source, but also incorporate rubber legs, gill movement, and eyes. 

It's okay to experiment with retrieve, but in general, these critters don't move fast and can spend a lot of time at rest. One-inch increments are my rule for retrieves. Unless I am fishing a minnow imitation. 

We need to be more patient and precise with our presentations. Once I watched a guy in a float tube. He was using the right fly, but his tube was underinflated, so when he kicked, he leaned way back, transmitting all of that back-and-forth motion to his fly rod and his fly. His fly was probably making two-foot moves. No bug does that. Some guys don't like to be told what they are doing wrong, so I just kept my mouth shut. While the guy's buddy caught half a dozen trout that morning, this guy didn't land one. The difference between a poor day of fishing and a good day might just be the way the fly swims. 

A good presentation is one where the bug swims and rests naturally. Since real bugs don't get towed around on lines, we have to minimize the way the line affects the movement of the fly. The smaller the tippet, the more that the fly will work in the water like the tyer intended. If you have been using 3X, go down to 4X tippet or even 5X on smaller flies. Don’t forget, fluorocarbon was made so that you can catch more fish. And the guy with fluoro will probably out-fish the guy with mono five-to-one if everything else is equal. 

Like it or not, you might have to learn a new knot. Try a non-slip or a perfection loop and see how the fly behaves differently at rest. My biggest fish of the morning was a 25-incher with a thick wrist, one of my best trout of the year. But it was in the late afternoon with a low-pressure system coming in when I earned a 20-inch rainbow. 

"What are you using?" Dad wanted to know.

"A damselfly."

"Oh, good idea," Dad said. "Why didn't you tell me earlier?"

"Because you told me, I figured you already knew."

"Oh yeah, I'm pretty smart," Dad said.

# # #

For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709 To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

When May rolls around, the spring Chinook fishery kicks into high gear as more and more fish begin filtering into the “Big-C.”
While most of the effort will shift to tributaries in May, the Columbia River mainstem spring Chinook fishery opportunities both above and below Bonneville Dam still remained up in the air as of this magazine’s publication deadline.

All decisions on whether the Columbia River mainstem reopens later in May and possibly into early summer are left up to joint Washington and Oregon in-season management decisions. To keep track of updates, the public is encouraged to sign up for WDFW Columbia River Compact mailing list notices at https://wdfw.wa.gov/about/lists.
The 2025 forecast for Columbia upriver spring Chinook is 122,250 fish, more than the 116,332 that returned in 2024, but lower than the 10-year average of 139,676 fish.

Several factors influence the arrival of spring Chinook, including flow patterns, which can change on a daily basis. These fish are known to work their way up the maze of channels and will follow bottom structure in the river. They will avoid turbulent water and are known to stall below dams when abrupt changes occur at the tailrace and fish ladder channels.

The initial spring Chinook fishing seasons for the Columbia River mainstem were set in late February, with end dates in mid/early April for below Bonneville Dam and late April upstream. It is usually soon after that when the run begins to ramp up. In recent years, the timing of the run has been later and later.

As of mid-April, the spring Chinook fishing success was just starting to build in the lower river. The number of fish seen at the Bonneville Dam fish ladder was also sporadic. Anglers can track daily fish counts by going to Columbia River adult salmon counts at https://www.fpc.org/currentdaily/HistFishTwo_7day-ytd_Adults.htm, which is key to knowing when to go fishing.

It’s also wise to not wait to go fishing once the run begins to peak, as you’ll likely miss out on the best time period. “For 2025, the corresponding harvest rate tiers are determined by the Snake River wild abundance estimate. Following that, we apply a 30% buffer applied to the forecast until we get a run size update, this is then used to determine the harvest rate,” said Ryan Lothrop, Columbia River fisheries manager with the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW), which he referred to as step one.

Next, fishery managers calculate the allowable catch. Lastly, fishery managers apply the commission guidance of proportion of the Endangered Species Act splits by sector and area.In 2025, recreational anglers are projected to harvest approximately 5,200 adult spring Chinook below Bonneville Dam in the Columbia mainstem, and 550 spring Chinook from Bonneville Dam upstream to the Washington/Oregon border.

“Fortunately, we were able to provide additional quality April days of opportunity downstream of Bonneville Dam this year, given there was a substantial balance remaining,” Lothrop said. “Upstream of Bonneville Dam, increasing catch rates in recent years have led to early closures, resulting in fewer open fishing days before this year’s in-season run size update."

However, if the run size update is large enough or if there’s remaining catch allocation, additional fishing time is likely. ”Fishery managers will monitor the fisheries, dam counts, and hatchery returns as the season progresses and adjust as necessary. The U.S. v. Oregon Technical Advisory Committee typically provides a run size update in mid-May. Based on the 2025 preseason forecasts, anglers can expect to find a decent number of spring Chinook in the Cowlitz, Kalama, and Lewis rivers. Tributary fisheries are managed based on hatchery spring Chinook surplus.

Places like the Cowlitz experienced closures a few years ago, but with a forecast of 13,310 (4,580 and 8,822), a closure isn’t necessary in 2025. The Cowlitz spring Chinook forecast to the tributary mouth is greater than the recent five-year and 10-year average return of 5,300 and 9,800, respectively. In the Kalama River, the spring Chinook forecast to the tributary mouth is 2,900 (1,840 was forecast with an actual return of 2,310 in 2024).

The Kalama spring Chinook forecast to the tributary mouth is similar to the recent five-year and 10-year average return of 2,200 and 2,500, respectively.In the Lewis River, the spring Chinook forecast is 3,060 (3,270 and 2,553). The Lewis spring Chinook forecast to the tributary mouth is similar to the recent five-year average return of 3,700 and greater than the 10-year average return of 2,600. During May a lot of the spring Chinook fishing attention also shifts to tributaries above Bonneville Dam such as Drano Lake, and the Wind and Klickitat rivers. The best way to gauge when it’s time to go is by watching the fish counts at Bonneville Dam.

The Wind forecast is 4,900 (4,200 forecast and actual return of 4,604 in 2024) and is greater than the recent five-year and 10-year average return of 4,100 and 4,000, respectively. In Drano Lake (aka Little White Salmon) the forecast is 7,600 (5,300 and 7,863) and forecast is similar to the recent five-year average return of 7,400 and less than the recent 10-year average return of 8,100. The Klickitat forecast is 1,200 (1,300 and 491) and is similar to the recent five-year average return of 1,300 and less than the recent 10-year average return of 1,500.

In Drano Lake, the best action happens in the area referred to as “Toilet Bowl,” a popular spot where anglers troll in a tight circle near the entrance of the lake. While most are Drano Lake stock fish some of these fish are known as “dip-ins” as they first enter the lake before migrating further up the Columbia River. There isn’t much space to troll so make sure you’re following the same path as others and are good at handling your boat and keep your lines right underneath to avoid getting tangled up with others. If someone nearby hooks a fish stay clear of them.

If you plan to fish Drano Lake, be aware the Columbia River outside the mouth of Drano Lake is closed. There is a marked boat fishing boundary area in Drano to allow for some bank angling to occur near the mouth. From the shore cast spinners or Wiggle Warts. Anglers also fishing for springers in the Wind River must stay within the fishing boundary of the river itself and not stray into Columbia River mainstem area. Spring Chinook tips and tactics I could list a hundred different ways to successfully catch spring Chinook and what to use varies depending on river location, flow patterns and water clarity but the most important factor to keep in mind is patience.

Earlier last month, I had a friend who spent six days and nearly 50 hours on the water of the Lower Columbia River and managed to bring home one hatchery-marked fish.

As for fishing gear, don’t skimp on the rod and reel and spending money wisely will be an investment toward catching more fish. The rods of choice are usually a 9 ½ to 10 ½ foot of 15 to 25 pounds with a lot flex and soft tip. Oftentimes these fish will grab the bait and turn away so flexibility in the rod will allow for a proper hook-up. Let the salmon pull your rod tip down a few times before gently setting the hook and don’t jerk hard since usually the depth of water you’re fishing isn’t very deep to begin with.

Line counter reels are the norm nowadays and enable you to find the sweet spot by aligning the depth on your fish finder to the area where the fish are lurking. Many like to use braided line, but I’m old school and will stick with monofilament line for a bit of stretch and give when the fish bites. The standard setup for trolling is a three-way swivel with 10 to 18 inches of 15-pound monofilament to an eight- to 15-ounce dropper weight, depending on current and flow.

On the other end of the swivel is 24 inches of 30-pound monofilament line to your fish flash and then another 40 to 50 inches of 30-pound monofilament line with a swivel halfway down the leader to allow the bait or lure to spin freely and eliminate the line from twisting and tangling. Often I’ll go “naked” and not use a fish flash which creates less drag too.

The traditional bait is a green-label herring, whole or cut-plug, with the proper tight spin. Many will soak their bait in a brine mixture to toughen them up. After bouncing off the bottom a few times or running into debris they’ll tend to get blown out or will lose their quality spin. To get the right spin on a whole herring, I like to insert a toothpick in the anal vent of the herring and bend the herring to a 45 degree angle. Then take the top hook and insert it under the lower jaw and out through the hard spot between the eyes. About halfway down the side of the body insert and pull out the trailing hook so it dangles freely.

Others like to pin a plastic bait helmet – Krippled Herring or Rhys Davis – to avoid wear and tear on the herring. Before dropping it down, add some scent and make sure it has the right spin. Other top choices are a 3.5 spinner and prawn, flat fish wrapped with a sardine or a Brad’s Super Bait. Downsizing to smaller Kokanee Cut Plugs, or a 2.5 or 3.0 Spinfish filled with tuna to tandem trailing hooks are effective in warmer water conditions and when it gets crowded during a slow troll like at Drano Lake.

Colors are also key to catching fish. Be sure to carry a wide variety but usually chartreuse, silver, orange and red work well. The scent of bare hands can be a deterrent so keeping some environmentally safe liquid soap, clean hand towels and elastic nitrile gloves will enable you to stay in the game of catching fish. Have a small bucket to wash down your lures and be sure to keep your rod handles and cranks on the reel clean.

Be sure to check the WDFW website at https://wdfw.wa.gov/ for current daily limits, other area-specific rules, any emergency rule changes, and closures or openings that tend to occur during the spring Chinook fisheries.

Tight lines, and I’ll see you on the water very soon!

(Mark Yuasa is a Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife Communications Manager. He was also the outdoor reporter at The Seattle Times for 28 years.)

Make no mistake, kokanee can see up, down, and all around. They see close up and farther out (depending on water clarity) at the same time, but not as clearly as we can. They can see effectively behind them as they swim, because their undulating swimming motion turns the head just far enough to see very near the plane of the tail.

Color Shift At Depth

Since sight is part of the effective formula, you must make sight important in your presentation. The very last thing you want is for your lure to be camouflaged. You want it to be noticed. You work against yourself if your target winds up being camouflaged because you have not accounted for the three things that change your lure's appearance at depth:

• Lack of light at target depth;
• Color shift (attenuation), making your lure dull gray; and
• Lack of contrast (conveys information about shape and form)

Consider what it is that you are trying to do. You want your setup color-wise to be different than the water surrounding it. If your setup contrasts with the water it is in, it has a far greater chance to be noticed and targeted. Remember, we are seeking a striking response. Your setup must appear different than the predominant color of the surrounding water at that depth.

As we descend the water column, certain light wave frequencies are absorbed (because water absorbs light). Here is the other prong of that absorption concept. As we go deeper in the water column, some of the colors we see at the surface will no longer be the same color at depth. At this point in the discussion, I am speaking of ordinary colors - the color spectrum we can see. Fluorescent colors will be discussed in a moment.

The longest visible color wavelengths are the reds. Shorter in descending order are orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. As you descend the water column, the longer wavelengths are absorbed, leaving the shorter wavelengths to continue down the water column. Those shorter wavelengths will ultimately be absorbed, even in the clearest of water, provided you go deep enough. The kokanee fisherman is dealing with depths generally down to 100 feet, give or take. The typical kokanee body of water will have no light in the later season beyond 75 feet. In the very early season, there may be no light at 30 feet.

As you recall from last month’s article, the proper target depth for kokanee fishing is 54 degrees. And since that temperature descends the water column as the season wears on, the resulting less light at your target depth also means that certain ordinary colors are no longer what they appeared to be on the surface because their wavelengths have been absorbed. If you use such a color at depth, your presentation will be gray and not have much contrast to the water it is in.

A lure of ordinary red will virtually disappear in but a few feet of water. Soon to follow would be the ordinary orange, ordinary yellow, and then ordinary green. Also, about that time would be ordinary indigo and ordinary violet due to the structure of water and the use by phytoplankton of these frequencies. If you take an ordinary red object into a dark closet and shine orange light on it, the red object will appear gray. If you take an ordinary green object, and test it the same way with blue light, the green object will appear gray.

For the object to be seen in its correct color, it has to be struck by a light frequency of equal or higher wavelength. In these examples, if you take a green object and strike it with red light, it will appear green. If you take the green object and strike it with orange light, it will still be green. For ordinary colors, the deeper you go, the very light necessary for that color to be that color, has likely been absorbed in the water before you reach your target depth. Without the right light wavelength hitting it, it will be dull gray and not at all distinctive to the water that surrounds it. The little remaining visible light at depth makes the dullness even duller

Our lures are rarely of a pure color wavelength. But even the mixing of colors (hues) will still be subject to the same color deterioration at depth. Pink is a good example. Pink is not a color of the visible spectrum, but is a mixing of red and white. White is not a color of the spectrum, but is all colors of the visible spectrum. Thus in pink, a little of the color will respond to green and blue wavelength at depth. But the color intensity will be mostly dull. From what you now know, ordinary pink is not the ideal choice for getting noticed at depth.

While this might seem confusing to us above water, it is still the reality of the color situation in the water and at depth. Perhaps some encouragement is in order. To be "expert" of color at depth you need not memorize anything. Because most of our kokanee fishing occurs in green or blue light wave frequencies, we want all of our presentations to show up in green and blue light.

Fluorescent Colors

Enter the amazing world of fluorescent colors. No intense scientific discussion is needed here. What you need to know is this. A true fluorescent color will remain its color when struck by a lower light wave frequency. If a true fluorescent orange is struck by a green light (lower frequency than orange light), it will remain orange. The same is true for all of the fluorescent colors. And that means that if you use true fluorescent colors in your setup, your setup will be seen at depth. True fluorescent colors tend to be brighter as well, making for higher visibility.

Not all materials on the tackle market are of true fluorescent colors. You can easily test whether a color is a true fluorescent by taking your lures and dodgers into a dark closet and then shining a black or UV light on them. If the color seen is the color you saw in full light, you have a fluorescent color. Again, there is a difference in intensity of the color. Just because a material is fluorescent does not automatically mean it is intense.

U.V. light is below the visible spectrum (of lower wave frequency), which means it cannot be seen directly. All U.V. light is dissipated in very shallow fresh water holding kokanee, because the water, plankton and other particulates in the water absorb all of it. It is well documented that there will be no U.V. light in the freshwater column below just a few feet. 

I have tested lures labeled "U.V." Most work very well in waters holding kokanee, and in particular, the UV squids should be a part of your tackle box. However, lures labeled "U.V." would be more accurately labeled as "fluorescent." These "U.V." lures come in visible colors. Since UV is not visible, the color you see is fluorescent. As with all fluorescent colors, stimulation by a black light will make the color jump out at you. But these lures are in fact, only fluorescent. But that is why they are good. They still need some visible light at depth to be most effective. They do not glow. Match one of these "UV" (fluorescent) squids with a Fish With Gary™ POWER Dodger, and you have a great setup.

Using true fluorescent materials in your setup will resolve issues of color shift in your favor. While some fluorescent colors will fade somewhat the deeper you are in the water column, they still are not gray if there is some light available to act on them. When using true fluorescent materials, the colors you are delivering at depth are those NOT ordinarily seen at depth. And that is exactly the effect you want. Your setup will be out of the ordinary, and kokanee will focus on it in the near field.

Vital Contrast

Using fluorescent materials is not the only way to get your setup noticed. Remember that you are after contrast, or what I call vital contrast. Vital contrast can be obtained by using different fluorescent colors next to each other or spaced in such a way as to create the illusion of not being connected. Components that contrast with themselves will stand out even more in dull watery depth.

Contrast is the enemy of camouflage. Contrast is the better-developed part of kokanee vision and encompasses about 10 times larger visual window area than does color. The color window is directly in front of the kokanee, but contrast is not only seen in front, it is seen up, down, sideways, and backwards. Contrast vision overlaps color vision. Effectively presented, color is a great contrast. When color and contrast are effectively presented, color and contrast are in front of the kokanee to see and react to them. This allows the kokanee to put its mouth where the color is, which is pretty much what you want!!

Glows

There is another fantastic way to achieve this vital contrast at depth, and that is the use of glows. Glows are termed phosphorescent (or luminescent) as they carry their own light to depth. No intense scientific discussion is needed here either. Glows emit light when the light source that charges them is removed. On the other hand, fluorescent materials appear brighter in light, but do not glow when that light is removed.

Most glows on the market and peddled to fisherman are of very poor quality. Their glow simply does not last even long enough to make it to depth, let alone work for you at depth.

All Fish With Gary™ glows are of the highest quality and are termed extended glows for good reason. The natural glow beads in particular will glow for hours on a simple charge of sunlight for a few minutes. Stimulation of glows by using a black light is not very efficient, and the resulting glow does not last as long as sunlight stimulation.

Glows clearly take on more importance when the level of light is less in the water column. As you descend below light in the water column in later season, glows make visible what would otherwise be invisible. And if the surrounding water is pitch black, the glow of light most certainly is the kind of dramatic contrast that will get your setup noticed.

The Ideal Presentation

The ideal presentation in achieving vital contrast is one that makes generous use of fluorescent materials and glows, arranged in such a way to be in contrast with each other and in contrast with the surrounding water. And this is exactly what is incorporated into the entire Fish With Gary™ Tackle line.

While the dodger blade attracts far field (long distance), the beads, and the spinner(s) on the leading wire are near field (short distance) attractors.

Here is what is going on with the beads and spinner in front of the dodger. Because the beads and spinner(s) are being moved about by the dodger, they are creating short field sound. The spinner(s) do not consistently spin as you would expect. Instead, their movement in the water makes the spinner(s) come in contact with the glass beads. Metal versus glass produces a sound. In this case the two produce an irregular sound that alternates with some spinning, and some "tap-tap" of the metal on the glass.

There is nothing in nature that this imitates, and this sequence of short field sound is itself a contrast to the natural water environment. Add to this is the natural movement of the glass beads working against themselves as this setup is whipped through the water. And all of this is going on while your dodger is still producing far field sound, attracting other kokanee to your setup. A gathering of kokanee is more likely to result in a strike than a single kokanee.

While your sound generating machine is working, your kokanee has been drawn close enough so that the colors and contrasts are within its sight window. A curious thing happens at this point. Having been drawn to the sound, the kokanee will see a particular color and contrast sequence. Once seen, this color and contrast sequence effectively imprints the kokanee with that combination, even if briefly. If your dodger and the upfront beads and spinner are of the same color and contrast, you increase that imprinting. And if your lure is of the same color and contrast, then you give the kokanee a target that it does not fear. That is why it is absolutely critical that your dodger setup and the lure be matched.

The lure is making short field vibrations and adding color and contrast, and adding scent.

So now you have the complete picture. Far field vibrations attract, short field vibrations and colors in consistent vital contrast imprint the kokanee and provoke the strike. 

As many anglers know, our fishing opportunities in Washington are dwindling, specifically when we are talking about salmon and steelhead. With retention opportunities waning, we are often fishing in catch-and-release fisheries, which are very misunderstood.

I was recently reminded by someone from the State of Washington that as outdoor writers, we have a responsibility to educate readers about topics such as the ethical handling of fish that we will release. We all want a picture or two of our trophy catch, but we should always place the mortality of the fish ahead of ourselves.

Please note that I took much of the information below from an Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife article written in 2019 and titled, Catch-and-release: Tips to reduce fish mortality. One very important note to share. ODFW will allow anglers to take a fish out of the water before releasing it. In Washington, it is illegal to remove a fish from the water that must be released.

One way anglers can help maintain and restore native fish populations is to learn how to catch and release wild fish properly. Before fishing, anglers should always consult WDFW fishing regulations for any harvest restrictions.

Here are some tips for the safe and ethical release of a wild fish or a hatchery fish that is caught out of season.

Land the fish quickly.

A fish on the end of the line is under stress, so don't play the fish to utter exhaustion. Severe exhaustion reduces the fish’s odds of surviving.

Support the fish when bringing it in.

Support the fish underwater in a natural position, handling it as little as possible. Give it time to recover and keep it in the water, it needs all the oxygen it can get from the water passing over its gills.

Use barbless hooks.

Bring the fish quickly within reach. Leave the fish in the water and, without squeezing it, remove the hook carefully with long-nosed pliers or thumb and forefinger. If necessary, cut the leader near the hook, which will dissolve over time.

Revive the fish before releasing.

Point the fish into the current or in standing water, gently move the fish forward until its gills are moving and it maintains its balance on its own. Let the fish swim freely from your hands.

Use appropriate gear.

Use tackle, including line and rod, that are strong enough to bring your fish in quickly and gently.

Safe handling.

Note that fish have a natural slime on them, which is a coating that prevents disease and protects them. Though the slime makes the fish slippery and hard to hold onto, avoid using any material, such as a cloth glove or towel that will remove the slime from the fish. This will increase the odds or chances that the fish survives.

Getting a photograph

Taking a photograph with your fish can be a lovely way to capture the moment. But try to minimize handling and keep the fish in the water as much as possible with these tips:

• Have help. If someone is helping you with the photo, make sure they’ve composed the shot and adjusted the camera settings before you position the fish. Remember, the fish must remain in the water, so the head and gills should always be submerged, never leaving the water.
• Get your hands wet before handling the fish. This will help protect the delicate membrane on the fish’s skin.
• Support the fish properly. Put one hand under the forward part of its body and the other at the base of its tail. Keep the fish in the water. Do not place fingers or objects into or under the gill plates.
• When you’re ready, cradle the fish at or just above water level and snap a quick picture, again, keeping the head and gills submerged in the water. Note that most pull the head quickly up for the shot with the mouth still submerged and then immediately place the fish back into the water, fully submerged, to revive the fish and begin the release process.
• Return the fish to the water quickly. Then revive it gently before letting it swim away. It is very important to revive the fish and let it swim off under its own power to ensure that it is ready to go.

Many anglers may not agree with these rules and may have heartache with our regulatory agencies, but I feel strongly that we need to be bigger than our frustration. We must do what is best for the fish to preserve them and ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to experience what we get to today. Things may not be what they were 20-30 years ago, but at least we still get to fish and experience that feeling of the tug on the other end of the rod.

Kokanee, which are a landlocked sockeye salmon, can be found in a couple of dozen or so lakes in Oregon and are some of the best eating at any fish fry. This year, we did the scouting for you. Here are seven lakes and reservoirs you must fish in 2025. 

LAKE BILLY CHINOOK

At Lake Billy Chinook, it’s not hard to imagine the old river channels – the Deschutes, the Crooked, and the Metolius and their confluence, now obscured by 4,000 surface acres and up to 415 feet of water.

Round Butte Dam was finished in 1965, and the power of the water was harnessed by three 1000-kilowatt generators. Today, the Pelton Round Butte complex generates enough energy to power a city the size of Salem.

Kokanee angling is popular here, and anglers show up as early as February, teasing them with jigs early in the season. Trolling pays off later in the year. 

ODELL LAKE

Odell Lake (and nearby Crescent) are some of the coldest, deepest lakes in the state, which makes them good habitat for a big char we call lake trout or mackinaw. Odell and Crescent also have good populations of kokanee (a landlocked sockeye salmon), the lake trout’s favorite food. 

Kokanee can be easy to catch when conditions are right. Full-grown, they average 12 to 18 inches. Kokanee are most easily enticed in the early morning. As soon as the sun hits the water, the plankton go deeper, and the kokanee follow. 

Jigging is a favorite technique early, but trollers seem to do better in the summer. An easy rig, whether using a downrigger or not, consists of an eight-inch flasher on the main line terminated at an Apex or Wedding Ring spinner. Most anglers add white corn and season it with a scent like Pro-Cure's Kokanee Special Super Gel. To rent a cabin or a room, click on odelllakeresort.com 

WALLOWA LAKE

Sockeye are native to Wallowa Lake. Historic runs of sockeye were strong in Wallowa Lake until 1916, when the lake’s dam was enhanced. The fish still in the lake were landlocked. 

Wallowa, with 1,500 surface acres and an average depth of 160 feet, can be daunting. Favorite kokanee areas are the western shore off Eagle Point and along the eastern bank up and down from the large pine tree. Try jigging after ice-off and then switch to trolling in the summer. Great trolling lures include Pro-Troll Kokanee Killer, Worden's Spin-N-Glo Kokanee, and Mack's Double Whammy.

For a great place to stay, check out wallowalakelodge.com 

WICKIUP 

Wickiup as a storage reservoir is one of the largest in the state, and its waters harbor rainbows and brown trout. And the kokanee grow big, too. 

Fed by the Upper Deschutes via Crane Prairie, the Davis Lake sump, Davis Creek, Browns Creek and several springs, some of the best fishing is in the old channels. At its deepest, the lake is 70 feet deep, but the average depth is 20 feet. 

Kokanee are spread throughout the lake early in the season, but tend to school up and head toward deeper water (the channels) as temperatures warm. Both jigging and trolling are productive throughout the season.

EAST LAKE

East Lake kokes average 12 to 17 inches. While kokanee are known to feed on plankton in most waters, the most reliable food sources at East Lake are the chironomids and midge larvae (chironomids). This is the reason a lot of people who are good kokanee anglers sometimes struggle at East. 

Jigging works best early in the season and trolling takes more trout later in the season. Fly-anglers can take kokanee all season long on wind-drifted Callibaetis nymphs or on chironomids fished below an indicator.

PAULINA LAKE

Paulina Lake shares the caldera of Newberry National Volcanic Monument with its twin East Lake. This 1,300-acre lake is 250 feet in some places. Kokanee fishing is the main attraction and trolling flashers is the most popular method. Trolling a Wedding Ring with a kernel of corn or a chunk of worm on the end is very effective. Other great kokanee lures include the Cha Cha 1.5 Kokanee and the Kokanee Killer. 

Jigging is the other way to catch them at Paulina, especially till about mid-June. Mack's Cripplure and Sonic Baitfish are productive, as are Nordic lures. First locate schools with a fish-finder and, depending on the depth, troll with a downrigger, flashers, a kokanee spinner and a kernel of corn on the hook. Or drop down a jig and try to put it in the school. 

DETROIT RESERVOIR 

The Detroit Dam was built in 1953, creating a large water storage and electric power generation reservoir that has become an important recreation resource. This nine-mile lake, with 32 miles of shoreline is surrounded by forest of Douglas fir and hemlock and is fed by the Breitenbush River, North Fork Santiam and Blowout and Kinney and several smaller creeks.

ODFW stocks Detroit with rainbows throughout the season. This 3,580-acre reservoir is also home to kokanee. Angling success picks up in May when the water warms.

Try the Kokanee Kid Mysis Bug or Promise Ring made in Salem, Oregon. Other good bets include the Silver Skalez Koko Leaf or Kokanee Creek Tackle 1.5 Micro Bite Squid. Popular trolling areas include Piety Island, west of Mongold State Park, the north shore near the dam and at the mouths of inlets.

AND FURTHERMORE

Some of our favorite fisheries were destroyed in 2023 and another one may be destroyed this fall. 

One of the best kokanee days of my life was on Green Peter Reservoir. GPR had a seemingly inexhaustible supply of kokanee and if you figured them out on any given day, you could not go wrong. What did the Feds do? The US Army Corps of Engineers decided to drain Green Peter and Foster and wiped out some of the state's favorite kokanee fisheries while simultaneously silting over and smothering salmon and steelhead and trout spawning beds in the South Santiam for miles downstream. Brilliant. 

Think they are done? The National Marine Fisheries Service and the Corps of Engineers have their fish-killing sights set on Detroit Reservoir and the North Fork Santiam now. So go fish Detroit this year and I hope you catch a bunch of limits and have a good time, but don't forget the very agencies that purport to be working for the people are often working against us and the fisheries we love. 

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For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709 To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com