Kokanee

By Gary Gordon

It is the single most important thing to grasp: kokanee are kokanee and have the same whims, growth, hormone, and feeding issues wherever they are found. So these kokanee issues are the same in Washington, Oregon, Colorado, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, California, North Carolina, New Mexico, and British Columbia.

It turns out that before getting to the point of deciding what colors are the answers to today’s fishing mysteries, selecting color is the last component of a successful outing. Since color makes no sound and has no scent, its single role is to stimulate a biting response.

The next thing to grasp is a consistent presentation strategy. What you are trying to do is make your presentation as 100% efficient as possible. This means that all of your equipment from your boat, trolling motors, fishfinder, GPS, rods, reels, downriggers, and releases must be working together so that your presentation can be as efficient as possible. Having the “right” colors means nothing if you are not placing your tackle where the fish are.

Correct presentation strategy means also that your attractor and the lure have to work together. You have to troll the dodger at a speed that allows it to attract. That means that each attracting dodger has a minimum speed that allows it to work correctly. What that speed is depends on the size and shape of the attracting dodger.

One of the best ways to check the correct speed is to simply put the dodger into the water on your fishing line right next to the boat, and look at the action. Speed up or slow down the boat until you feel the action is what you are looking for. Recognize that the dodger and lure are working together, so look for movement in the lure behind the dodger. You simply do not want the lure to just sit there in a straight line behind the dodger; you want some movement. Keep the lure in tight behind the dodger for the best movement. I advocate 6 to 8 inches of leader, even if your lure comes with a long leader.

For early season, that movement does not need to be great. As the season progresses, speed up your presentation to get more movement on your lure. Also, as your target depth gets deeper, increase your trolling speed, and increase the size of your dodger.

I carry three different size selections of dodgers for these very reasons.

For all except the Apex type lures, it is critical to have a short leader behind the dodger for the lure. This gives the maximum movement to the lure from the movement of the attracting dodger. I prefer only about 6 inches behind the attracting dodger regardless of the size of the dodger.

Next would be to match the dodger colors with the lure colors. Although color is not an initial attractor, it is vital to stimulate the biting response. You want what is making the attracting vibration (the dodger) and the following matching lure work together. The following chart shows relative penetration of visible colors in the water column. We all know there is less light at depth.

Go deep enough and there is no light. Water absorbs light in sequence of the visible spectrum. Light enters the water as white light. Then very shortly the red drops out, leaving the balance of colors to continue together down the water column. The next to drop out are the oranges, then the yellows, then the green, then the blues and then the indigo and then finally the violet.

But use fluorescent colors and the color you see in your hand will be the same color at depth. So, a fluorescent yellow will still be fluorescent yellow when only violet light can act on it. If it is not fluorescent, it will be black when violet light strikes it. All tackle marketed as “UV” is really fluorescent. There is no “UV” colorCOL, and “UV” light does not penetrate the water column more than just a few inches. Most tackle marketed today is fluorescent even if it is not marked “UV.” Fluorescent colors penetrate the water column to far greater depths than do ordinary colors.

So, can kokanee see color? Kokanee are vertebrates and as such they have eyes that contain rods and cones. Cones are the part of the eye for color. Salmonids have a distribution of about 10% cones and 90% rods. So, color vision is basically limited to an area directly in front of the snout and extending out about 20 inches or so in clear water.

This is actually a good thing. Stay with me now. You have this awesome hot pink squid properly trailing your dodger. The fish is going to be attracted to the dodger vibrating, but that will be at some distance to your lure. Once that lure become visible to the fish, it is still only seen by the fish’s eye rods in shades of gray and black and white tones. But as the fish approaches that 20-inch mark, there’s an explosion of color – just like turning on a light bulb. The fish backs off to 21 inches and it is back to black and white and gray. Come in closer, and bam! Hot color – just the way you planned it topside, but not exactly the way you planned it topside. This color shift works for you as a bite stimulant.

Here are some helpful suggestions about color.
• The first suggestion is that the color of the day, or even of the hour, is up to the kokanee.
• Early season stuff: pink, red, orange, green, natural glow, blue
• Mid-season – absolutely wide open, but add copper and gold to the mix. Run copper and gold setups a bit faster than the nickel. Don’t forget the black and white stuff.
• Later season – kokanee love the blue, pink, and watermelon.
• All seasons: White and glow.

Too many kokanee. That was the problem. We had the cure. 
As we idled away from the dock in the Nomad's Fishing Adventures 24-foot Koffler sled, Bill Kremers and Josh Hopkins tied up rigs. Our guide, Damon Struble, passed out cups of cured corn. Garlic on the starboard side and krill-marinated kernels on the other. Then Struble pointed the bow up into the narrows. 

A few minutes later, when Struble shut off the Mercury, he looked each of us in the eye - Tim Wehde, Kremers, Hopkins, and me. "We're going to set the back rods at 60 feet out and the front rods at 70 feet. Put one to two kernels of corn on each hook. Things are going to be chaotic. If a rod starts bouncing, don't worry about whose rod it is. Pick it up. If you are tying up a new bait and see a rod with a fish, set the first rod down and get the fish in the boat."

Each rod was loaded with a 3-ounce weight to run the baits 30 to 40 feet down where thousands of kokanee schooled below us. 

At full pool, Green Peter covers 3,700 acres and is ten miles long, with 38 miles of shoreline. 

The water level fluctuates and the fish move around, but some of the best kokanee spots are by the dam, in the Quartzville arm (where we fished), and around the peninsula in the main channel. Jigging is a favorite technique early in the year, but trollers seem to do better in the summer. 

Damon uses a Simon 4.0 kokanee dodger on the main line with a Gold Star micro hoochie. Another good bet is a Kokanee Kid Super Mysis Bug or a Mack's Lure Double Whammy with a 10-inch leader. Most anglers add white corn. Damon likes to marinate the corn overnight in Pro-Cure krill powder and Garlic Plus. Hopkins had brought two prototype Lamiglas kokanee rods, graphite/fiberglass hybrids with slow actions. We would put them to the test with these heavy 3-ounce weights. 

For several years, ODFW found themselves with a surplus of sockeye smolts, Struble explained. Those fish ended up in Green Peter Reservoir.  

"The result is such an overabundance there isn't enough food for all the fish. So they are stunted," Struble said. 

In less than two minutes, we had the first bite. The fish came fast, sometimes with two or three rods bouncing at once. As quick as we could put fish in the box and put fresh bait on hooks, there would be another bite. Our kokanee averaged eight to nine inches each. The direct beneficiary of the kokanee experiment is a little known landlocked chinook salmon fishery created by ODFW almost 20 years ago. 

"They wanted to see if the chinook salmon would migrate through the dam and return. For seven or eight years, ODFW put 20,000 chinook smolts in the reservoir," Struble said. "After some high water flood years that blew out the catch nets, the project was abandoned." Technically, the experiment didn't prove successful, but the chinook are still there. "They turned Green Peter into their ocean and spawn up in the creeks," Struble said. 

How big do they get? 

"The biggest one I have caught was 16-1/2 pounds, while trolling for kokanee with a dodger and a little hoochie," Struble said. Those landlocked chinook are growing big on the kokanee. Struble estimates he has caught 25 or 30 chinook between two and ten pounds while fishing for kokanee. 

"When they are small, I'm not sure what they feed on, but inside that 16-1/2 pounder was a mostly digested kokanee about eight inches long."We didn't have time to target Green Peter rainbows, but that is another facet of this interesting fishery. Ahead of every Memorial Day weekend, the state plants 10,000 rainbows. Anglers don't get them all.

"Come springtime there is a really good population of hungry holdovers that range from 12 to 18 inches," Struble said. While we worked back and forth above a biomass of kokanee, the eagles and ospreys watched. When we lost a fish at the surface, a raptor would swoop down to pluck it out of the wind-riffled water. 

At Green Peter, the kokanee limit is 25 per day in addition to the daily five-trout limit. There is no size restriction for kokanee. Landlocked chinook salmon may be retained as part of the kokanee limit. 

Damon glanced at the western sky, which had suddenly filled with clouds and said, "Unless you guys want part of that, we should run for the dock!" And run we did. By the time the Ford was pointed back toward Central Oregon, the windshield wipers were working overtime. We had boated 45 kokanee in two hours. We hardly put a dent in them. 

www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

In the years since Kokanee University was written, many wonderful developments have happened. The tackle designs, for example, are way different now as technology has made available vast improvements in action and color. What has not changed are the concepts outlined in previous articles. Let’s take a look at fishing strategies to catch more kokanee!

Color Fish Finder

No doubt, the very best piece of electronic equipment is the color fish finder–sonar. Color is better because of the unique biology of the kokanee, which have an unusually large air sac, and sonar cannot penetrate air. Because of this, kokanee can be seen on the fish finder, usually as bright orange (the default color on many systems). No other freshwater fish has this distinct detectable characteristic, so you can easily tell the depth of kokanee by this method.

The fish finder will let you know the current depth. Knowing the depth of the bottom is essential, especially if your lake has varying contours. On more than one occasion, I have raised downrigger balls "just in time" to avoid getting hung up on a bottom that suddenly came up, seemingly out of nowhere. Your fish finder will track your downrigger ball, and you can use this to verify the accuracy of the counter on the downrigger.

One factor to consider is how large a viewing area there is. The larger the viewing area, the higher the cost. Screen resolution is another factor to consider – will your viewer be viewable in sunlight and with polarized sunglasses? Another critical factor is the location of the fish finder in relation to where you are sitting while fishing. You need to be able to see the details on the screen.

GPS

GPS serves many useful functions. One of the best is showing accurate boat speed. (The little paddle wheel on the fish finder is unreliable and next to useless.) If you are targeting a speed of 1.4 MPH, you will be able to know when you are going 1.4 MPH. You will also be able to know when you are NOT going 1.4 MPH.

GPS will display a track of where you have been, and the memory will store those tracks until you erase them. I have had these tracks for years on the same device, showing both where I have been and also where my favorite and most successful areas have been.

Another fabulous feature is the cartography, which shows the contour depths of the lake you are on. You can either purchase the SD card, or many now come with the cartography pre-installed. My SD card covers all the lakes in the western US. You can get these cards to cover your region as well. Knowing the depth contours is a tremendous help. For example, it will allow you to stay on course within a former river channel. It will show points of land that are underwater and which could be a problem in navigation when the downriggers are out.

Temperature At Depth

One of the very best recent developments in technology is the ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water at depth. While the temperature function on your fish finder only tells you the surface temperature, the simplest device for measuring water temperature at depth is from FishHawk Electronics.

This little device is called the FishHawk TD. It is easy to use by simply attaching the device to your fishing line, pressing START, waiting for READY, then lowering it into the water. I send it down deep, then retrieve it, then press view, and it shows the water temperature in 5-foot increments down the water column as far as you have lowered the probe. This is extremely useful, particularly when looking for that 54-degree temperature depth in kokanee season. 

I have also used the device to understand what was going on underwater. During one early September outing on a high mountain lake, I could see on the fish finder a few scattered kokanee at 40 feet, and a whole bunch of kokanee at 60 feet. Try as I could, no kokanee could be enticed from the 60-foot depth. The kokanee at the 40-foot depth were the only ones that would bite. I set out the FishHawk TD to determine if temperature had anything to do with it. Sure enough, it did.

The fish at 40 feet enjoyed a temperature of 54 degrees. The fish at 60 feet were at 44 degrees. The deeper fish were already starting to settle in for the winter. Since it was September, I could tell these were the two-year-olds (next year's fish). Most of the kokanee I had caught at the 40-foot level were either turned or were turning color. By combining what I learned from the temperature measurements with what I saw on the fish finder, I was able to figure out why I was not getting bit at the deeper depths.

Electric Trolling Motors

The single best advantage of the electric trolling bow-mounted motor is the ability to steer the boat by wireless remote control from wherever you are in the boat. I simply strap the small control on my wrist, and that lets me easily control the boat's direction and speed, even when I am fighting a fish or setting the downrigger.

Scouting A New Lake

Once you have enjoyed some success fishing for kokanee, you can have confidence in fishing any lake with a kokanee population. Kokanee are kokanee regardless of whether they are in Oregon, Idaho, Montana, North Carolina, British Columbia, Washington, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, or California. When I know I am going to fish a new lake, the very first thing I do is to find the lake using Google Earth. I need to know the shape of the lake, where the deep water is, and where the shallow water is. I need to know what feeder streams come into it and where the outlet(s) are. I need to know the structure of the surrounding terrain, such as whether one side coming into the lake is steep and the other side is gentle.

I also check out the lake using my GPS cartography. I can sit in my boat in Central Oregon and study lakes in any other location simply by moving the cursor on my GPS.

Generally, what I am looking for is where the current might be and where feeder streams come into the lake. Those are two locators of what I call "active" water. This is where water mixes with the regular lake water, adding oxygen to the water. Fish need oxygen. This is also where trace nutrients come into the lake from feeder streams. These nutrients act like fertilizer to the plankton (phytoplankton) that the zooplankton, kokanee, and other baitfish feed on.

I look for drop-offs, where the lake suddenly gets deeper. Recall that as you go deeper down the water column, the water gets colder. It cannot get colder unless it gives up heat that rises to the surface. This process causes mixing - water movement up and down. This process is also good for the plankton and, hence, good for the kokanee.

If I am fishing early in the season, I look for structures, such as points of land coming into the water. I have found that in the early season, kokanee relate to structure.

Finally, using the internet allows you to research in ways we never could years ago. Don’t limit yourself to fishing forums. Searching and finding hidden gems can give you inside information that many anglers have overlooked. 

The whole idea is to learn as much reliable information about the new lake as you can from the available sources. Be assured, what has worked for you on your local lake will also work on the new lake.

 The Science Of "Scent"

All fish have nares, which are scent-detecting tubes on the snout of the fish. A fish's ability to detect scent is flat out amazing, often measured in parts per million. And salmonids are probably near the best in scent detection. For thousands of years, fishermen have used bait on hooks to persuade fish to bite.

Some awesome kokanee fisherman or fisherwoman discovered a long time ago that kokanee will bite a lure baited with white shoepeg corn. And that discovery has been passed down for many years to the present time. What has not been passed down is why white shoepeg corn works so well.

It turns out that white shoepeg corn has an amino acid that is a bite stimulant for kokanee, something that yellow corn does not have. White shoepeg corn also manages to stay on the hook fairly well at kokanee trolling speeds. My research has revealed another interesting characteristic of white shoepeg corn: it stays white down the entire water column without any fade. As such, it presents a clearly defined target for the fish to attack. (For doubters, take a kernel of white shoepeg corn into a dark closet and shine a black light on it.)

Over the years, it has become popular to add additional scent to the corn by brining it first. Such scents have included anise, garlic, vanilla, and a host of others. Savvy kokanee fishermen would have more than one type of scented corn to entice the kokanee; in case the first one didn't seem to work, they would have a backup. I know that making up different scent combinations is part of the wonderful pre-fishing ritual. Some even dye the corn different colors. More ritual.

In the past, I endorsed using two kernels of corn on each of the tandem hooks in the lure. I have changed my philosophy a bit over the years. I found out that putting corn only on the leading hook helped prevent that dreaded "short" bite. A "short" bite is where the fish targets the trailing hook, hits it, and does not get hooked. The same concept is where the fish will take a bite out of a worm that extends beyond the hook. Either way, the fish wins, and you get that wonderful, frustrated feeling.

Placing the corn on the leading hook takes advantage of a fish's biology. Since a fish cannot see directly in front of its snout a distance of about two inches, placing the target scent corn on the leading hook will make the trailing hook invisible to the fish. The result is a higher percentage of hook-ups and deeper penetration of the hooks.

I have also studied the hydrodynamics of putting two kernels of corn on the leading and trailing hooks. At kokanee trolling speeds, using two kernels on each hook significantly dampens the action of the lure. This poses an issue. I want maximum action on my lure, and I also want to maximize the scent on my lure. Can I have both action and scent without compromising the action of the lure? And I also want to prevent the "short" bite.

The best solution finally emerges as being obvious all along. Many scents now come available with a sticky gel. In my opinion, these scents are more powerful bite stimulants than anything that corn can produce by itself. I now use only a single kernel of undyed, and otherwise unscented, white corn on the leading hook only, and place some gel on the beads of my beaded spinners. This gives maximum scent to my lure without interfering with its action. If I am using a squid or a hoochie, I place some of the gel inside the squid or hoochie body, again using but a single piece of white shoepeg corn on the leading hook. I believe my success rate has increased using this setup.

At the end of the day, do your best to rinse off the gel on your lures. Using generous amounts of hot water will help. I have now substituted my pre-fishing "brine the corn ritual" for a post-fishing "clean the lures ritual." I have found the gel scents of anise, kokanee special, garlic, and especially bloody tuna to be excellent.

Next month, we'll look at the gear you need to catch more

Fish With Gary - Kokanee university

https://fishwithgary.com

Counting kokanee in your sleep? As we slowly transition from winter’s frosty grip to warmer days, tee shirts, and flip-flops, your thoughts may shift to your local kokanee fishery. If so it’s time to inventory your gear and make sure there is still a boat under one of those mossy tarps out back.

First thing on the list, you may want to give the boat motor and trailer a quick once over. Start peeling back tarps until you find the boat. You probably don’t want to mount new rod holders on the wood pile or stack of doors from a past remodel. 

Check your fuel system; regardless if you used a fuel conditioner or stabilizer in your portable tanks get rid of last year’s fuel or not. For built-in tanks, hopefully, you treated the fuel with each fill-up. Even so, it is a good idea to drain the fuel filter bowl and replace the fuel filter/water separator. Replace any brittle fuel line, cracked or otherwise damaged. If you have your owner’s manual, use it as your preseason checklist. 

Make sure the battery is topped off with distilled water. Then bring it up to full charge. If you find corrosion on the terminals remove the battery from the boat and clean it off with a mild solution of baking soda and water. Once everything is clean it is also a good idea to use one of the various corrosion guard offerings. You should also go through the rest of your electrical installation and look for loose connections and damaged wiring.

Give your trailer the once over. Check the trailer lights and trailer brake fluid levels. Also, check the tire pressure on all the tires including the spare. Check your safety chain, winch strap or cable and tie down straps and replace if they are questionable. Ensure that all bunks and/or rollers are in good condition. If your trailer lights are wonky, consider replacing them with waterproof LED lights. 

Look over your rod holders, net, and downriggers for damage and functionality. Also check for loose fasteners, worn or missing parts, and corroded electrical connections. Fix anything that is even remotely questionable. We recently made a 30-mile run to fish salmon on one of the Canadian banks. One of the downriggers was acting up and it turned out that the shaft seal had failed and allowed water into the motor. Basically, it was sort of seized. Slow going down with a breaker popping retrieve. Would I have seen the problem on a preseason check, I doubt it, but you never know. 

As a final note about kokanee boats. We have caught many kokanee from a human powered boat. Kayaks, drift boats, and inflatables will all work. No down riggers? just flat line or use a lead line rig and row away. I think the random action from paddling or rowing drives kokanee nuts. If you do head out without a motor watch the weather and consider whether your boat is appropriate for the body of water.

Check out your rods and reels. I know everything worked fine last year so you have nothing to do - wrong! It is the start of what should be a productive fishing season and you don’t want to lose the fish of a lifetime because your favorite reel has a funky drag. If anything is questionable, fix it or get it repaired. It may be time to replace your line. If so, take your reels to a high-volume tackle store (Think Holiday Sports in Burlington or similar) and have them bulk fill your reels. Their line should be fresher and most recycle your old line. Look at your rods and make a point to verify that the line guides are not cracked or worn. You can use a cotton swab and swirl around in each guide. If the guide catches any cotton fibers the guide needs to be replaced. 

Because kokanee are notoriously unpredictable, kokanee fishing is kind of a numbers game. Generally, the boat with the most tackle wins. Sure, there are days where you can go out and limit before daybreak using one dodger and a worn-out lure. Unfortunately, those days are a gift from the kokanee gods. Most of the time you must cycle through gear and trolling patterns to get it dialed in. On any given kokanee trip, you should have several pretied rigs and attractors on hand and ready to go. 

Before you head out on the lake with your collection of kokanee gear give it a good inspection. Look for rusty dull hooks, frayed lines, and missing or broken components. Repair and replace as required, A couple of years ago, we were fishing for kokanee on Lake Washington. We were pulling 8” flashers and veteran home-tied double hook kokanee flies. 

One, being a tried-and-true favorite, was frazzled looking but I put it out anyway.  After a solid takedown and an extended acrobatic fight, the line goes slack. What the heck? On inspection, the trailing hook was gone and much of the body of the fly had come unraveled. We only got a glimpse of the fish, but it was a huge chrome bright kokanee. I owned that one, I knew the fly was on its last leg and shouldn’t have used it. There’s peace of mind in knowing that your gear is in tip-top condition.

As you prepare for the 2024 spring kokanee fishery, review your gear to ensure you have the basics. Make sure that you have an assortment of small dodgers and swing blade-type flashers. Carry an assortment of small spinners, spoons, wedding rings, and flies. Other gear will work but this is your general kokanee kit. It is also a good idea to have a collection of lure components available. Start slow, a few spinner blades, beads, and spinner clevises and flies. If you’re a fly-tier, you probably already have the basics for any number of kokanee flies. Carry a separate Plano Box as your lure-making kit.

 My lure/spinner Box allows me to tweak my presentations. I might add a couple of beads and a second spinner blade, make leader with a fly then add spinner components. The box has small spin n glo floats, extra beads, various kokanee flies, wedding ring collars, some kokanee bugs, and a few other things to dress up your lure.    

Line size? With a few exceptions, I tie my kokanee leaders on 12-14# fluorocarbon. Hook size and color are kind of a personal preference. Many of my kokanee lures are tied using size 4 or 6 black octopus-style hooks. I typically tie a snelled rig with 2 hooks. With my standard rig, the hooks are close together. 

Regarding leader length, although I tend to have spools of ready to go lures when I’m on a lake hunting kokanee. Typically, they are the correct leader length for the given fishery. It is a good idea to have a handful of pretied leaders that haven’t been cut to length available. The thought is that you’ll be able to assemble your lure and then set leader length as required quickly. An 8-10” is kind of my standard kokanee leader length but sometimes the fish will want something different.

A couple of leader organization concepts are either sealable sandwich or snack bags or my favorite the slotted foam tubes. If using the resealable bags gently coil your kokanee leader and seal it in the bag. Store the sealed bags in something with a latching lid. With the slotted foam tubes, set the hook in the foam and wrap the leader securing the end in one of the slots. You can store the tubes on a rack, in a 3–5-gallon pail, or a 2-gallon resealable bag. I have found that using an empty 5-gallon to hang your leaders on during the day does wonders for keeping the boat organized as you cycle through set-ups. Come up with an organizational plan that works for you and your boat.

Kokanee fishing in general is a mental game. Be prepared but flexible and you will bring home a cooler full of spring kokanee.

After our very cold January followed by the big thaw that brought us almost summer-like weather, more than our toes have thawed out. The average kokanee-obsessed sportsman is suddenly waking up with thoughts turning to spring kokanee fishing, kokan-energy.

If so, plug in and use your kokan-energy to get ready for this year’s kokanee adventures. Spend the time making sure everything is in tip-top condition. Check out your boat, gear, and tackle while developing a game plan for filling the freezer with mini sockeye. Let me share some ramblings that may help you prepare for this year’s Kokanee crusades.

If you store your boat outside and are a seasonal user you have some work cut out for you. Garage-stored or year-round boaters have a task or two to attend to also and now is the time to get at it. The number 1 most important item on your pre-season chores list is your fuel system. Even if you used a fuel conditioner or stabilizer in your portable tanks get rid of last year’s fuel. Pour any gas from the portable tanks into the lawnmower gas can. I have nothing against lawn mowers but a little SeaFoam will cure many small engine fuel-related ailments that you don’t want to deal with on the lake. 

For built-in tanks, hopefully last season you treated the fuel with each fill up. Even so, it is a good idea to drain the fuel filter bowl and replace the fuel filter/water separator cartridge as appropriate. If your rig (built-in tank or portable) is not equipped with a fuel/water separator, now is a great time to install one.   

Check all fuel lines and fuel line fittings. Replace anything that is brittle, cracked or otherwise damaged. If you are a seasonal user and your boat was winterized this task is much easier. Next check fluid levels for your hydraulic steering, power tilt/trim units, lower unit/gearcase and your 4-stroke motor oil. Use your motor manufacturer's recommended products and do not top off or mix the various products.

Pull the propeller and check the shaft for fishing line or damage. Remember to lay all the nuts, washers, sleeves, or adaptors out in the same order they came off the shaft. This makes reassembly much easier and remember that most thrust washers have a right way and a wrong way to install them. Look at the propeller, if the blade edges are showing an excessive number of nicks/dings, now might be the time to send it off to be rebuilt. Even slightly damaged blades will affect performance and running a boat with severely damaged blades can lead to all kinds of shaft/seal problems down the road.

Each spring, be sure to top off the batteries with distilled water. It’s a good idea to get them on the appropriate charger for your battery type and bring them up to a full charge. If you find corrosion on the terminals remove the battery from the boat and clean it off with a mild solution of baking soda and water. Once everything is clean, it is also a good idea to use one of the various corrosion guard offerings. As long as you have 12-volt wiring on the brain you should also go through the rest of your electrical installation and look for loose connections and damaged wiring. 

Mice and other rodents can cause a lot of damage during the off season. Check all the switches and breakers to make sure they are working. Then hook up the fish finder, VHF chart plotter, VHF, trolling motor and any other major electronics you are running to make sure they have power. Check all the lights to make sure they work. Electrical gremlins are difficult to trace and best investigated in your driveway. 

Independent of the weather, my retirement job has me on the water running a small boat as many as 6 days a week. The winter weather is not forgiving and often rattles or jars nerves and electrical connections loose. I have lost the radio, wipers, tilt/trim motor and the bilge pump while running in winter chop. I just deal with things as required but you don’t want to spend your precious fishing time troubleshooting electrical problems. 

After all things electrical are functioning as expected, hook the engine up to the garden hose (be sure to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer recommendations) or dunk it in a livestock trough and start your baby up. If your rig has water pressure and temperature gauges check them now. Make sure the tilt and trim are working. Check the steering, especially mechanical steering, to see if there are any problems. Also, before you shut the engine off pull the kill-switch to make sure it works. Check all the switches and breakers to make sure they are working.

Inspect the condition of your downrigger cable or braid. If you are running a stainless steel cable and it is rusted or kinked, replace it. If you are running one of the synthetic braids cut off a few feet and re-tie it. You don’t want 10-15 pounds of lead to suddenly head for the bottom, potentially taking your rod and rod holder with it. However, if it does, it may be an indication that your release clip was a bit too tight. Also check for loose fasteners, worn or missing parts and corroded electrical connections. Fix anything that is even remotely questionable.

Give your trailer the once over. Now is the time to check the trailer lights and trailer brake fluid levels. Also, check the tire pressure on all the tires including the spare. Ensure that all bunks and/or rollers are in good condition. Check your safety chain, winch strap or cable and tie down straps and replace them if they are questionable. Check your lights and if they need replacing consider replacing them with waterproof LED lights. Initially, they are more costly but with increased reliability they will pay for themselves in no time. As an added safety benefit the LEDs are much brighter than the standard 12-volt incandescent lights. Now is also a good time to check and maybe even repack your trailer bearings, better safe than sorry. 

I know, all your rods are piled up safe and sound in the corner of the garage and better yet everything worked fine last year so you have nothing to do, wrong! It is the start of what should be a productive fishing season and you don’t want to lose the fish of a lifetime because your favorite reel has a case of the herkie-jerkies. Although with most reels it is easy enough to replace the drag washers, sometimes getting the replacement parts can be a challenge. When you disassemble your reels use simple green to thoroughly clean the reel components. Rinse and then dry the parts using the low setting on a blow-drier or heat gun before reassembly. Once the parts are clean inspect everything, look for unusual wear and replace anything suspect. Use advanced synthetic lubricants and reel grease sparingly during the reassembly process. 

If you are running mono, replace it with new line. Take your reels to a high-volume tackle store (Think Holiday Sports in Burlington or similar) and have them bulk-fill your reels. Their line should be fresher, and most tackle shops recycle your old line.

Also, give all your rods the once over. Make a point to verify that each line guide is not cracked or worn. You can use a cotton swab and swirl around in each guide. If the guide catches any cotton fibers the guide needs to be replaced. I have lost a few notable fish due to cracked ceramic guide inserts. 

On any given trout or kokanee trip I pack several pre-tied rigs and various components to craft more. Often several of them were tied the previous year. Last year we caught a lot of fish and the 12# fluorocarbon I use to tie gear looks frazzled. It’s time to retie much of my Kokanee arsenal. Fishing with sharp hooks is critical when chasing kokanee. Check your hooks and replace them as required. Look over your gear, and retie anything questionable.

A few years back, one of the kids and I were fishing at the Lake Stevens Kokanee Derby. We ended up losing a huge kokanee. When I looked at the rig afterward, the trailing hook had come unraveled. It was a home-tied kokanee fly and after catching many fish it had just failed. There’s peace of mind in knowing that your gear is in tip-top condition.

Now is a great time to develop your Kokanee game plan. With all the PNW Kokanee lakes to choose from, my recommendation is that you choose a Kokanee lake close to your home. Somewhere where you can fish both on the weekend and during the week as your schedule permits. Don’t fret about the size of the fish or even the numbers. This will be your learning/confidence building lake. Learn your boat, fish finder, downriggers, trolling speed, lure presentation and generally become the local expert while building confidence in your kokanee angling abilities. Then, whether you’re fishing a new lake or fishing a frequently visited lake the lessons learned at your home lake will help you catch kokanee with confidence.

Kokanee are filter feeders, and the bulk of their calories come from plankton blooms. There are windows any given day where a bloom or hatch will occur, and the kokanee will briefly leave their comfort zone to feed. Because the bite may go off at 2:08-2:24 with your gear running at 43’, it is best to choose a kokanee lake close to home and as said before learn it. Especially when late winter or spring kokanee fishing, keep a detailed fishing log.

Be the local expert and share your hard-earned knowledge. Back at the ramp… “Yeah, it was great fishing today… Good luck, tight lines and may your cooler be full”

Although I align my tactics for a given lake, seasonally I don’t really change my overall approach much. The usual kokanee drill: a small dodger, lure with tuna corn is a great place to start when hunting for spring kokanee. Make sure you have your favorite scents, maybe a container of worms and additional leader onboard. Not always but occasionally you will need to revise your leader length. When trolling for spring kokanee you will want to run 0.8-1.2 MPH. “S” turns or tools like the iTroll “Hunt” mode help. Make sure to make a mental note of what’s working when you get bitten. “Monkey see, monkey do” strongly applies to kokanee fishing. Repeat what works.

Our dodger box has more dodgers in it than most but during the spring Kokanee fishery my go-to dodgers are painted dodgers in various colors. Using either spinner rigs, flies or a very small Spin-n-glo behind the dodger seem to consistently produce kokanee during the spring fishery. After you hook your prize, gently fight the fish. Always lead the fish to the net, don’t repeatedly stab at the fish with your net and hope that the slimy bugger ends up in your cooler. As with any kokanee fishery, a long-handled net will increase your actual catch verses hook up statistics. 

During the spring the lake temperatures should be down. But still make sure you still care for your catch. Bleed them and keep them on ice or even better in a slurry (ice, water, and salt) in your cooler. You’ll want to preserve the quality of your hard-earned prize. 

Kokanee are a noble opponent. They often make short runs, jump and go bonkers at the net. Summer fish are more aggressive, but spring kokanee take more finesse to get them in the net. After grilling, smoking or chowderizing hundreds of Kokanee, both the summer and the winter fish are excellent table fare. But the early spring fish are outstanding for whole or fillet panfries and grilling.

The above is just a starting point. Choose a lake, learn it and you’ll soon be the local expert! Trolling for Washington State kokanee can be frustrating. But, with the management challenges impacting most of our salmon fisheries; a bit of kokanee frustration will quickly become an addiction. Enjoy your spring koka-energy!

By Gary Lewis

With the water swirling around us, we waded in at the mouth of Jack Creek. Skip Morris had hooked and lost a big rainbow here the day before. Today he stood back while Carol plumbed the two-foot deep run with a big stonefly nymph trailing a small beadhead attractor, called Gabriel's Trumpet. 

For a moment we thought Carol's rig was hung up, but when she tightened the line, a fish torpedoed away. 

The fish rolled mid-river and I saw his tail and dark fins silhouetted against bright water: a bull trout. Close to eight pounds, I guessed. The line broke and Carol reeled in the slack. The fish had taken the big stonefly nymph after a 13-minute battle and a last headlong flight. 

That’s what can happen when kokanee are on the move and bull trout follow them into the shallows.

LAKE RUN BULL TROUT 

Kokanee are thickest in the Metolius in late September and October. And the biggest bull trout, which can get to 30 inches or more, hammer them. 

Bull trout are meat eaters and if it's a third of their size they will crunch it. If it's half their size, they will try to choke it down anyway. Anyone who has caught a bunch of big bull trout has seen the tail end of a kokanee or a whitefish sticking out of that gullet. 

The Metolius River and Lake Billy Chinook are home to resident and migratory bull trout. The bulls move up the river to spawn in late August, September, and October. 

Oriented to ice-cold water, bull trout stage near springs and off the mouths of major tributaries like Canyon Creek and Jack Creek. After the spawn, they need to replace the calories they expended over the last few weeks. That’s when they find the kokanee. 

The kokanee spawn puts both species in the river at the same time. And the bull trout are the winners. Preoccupied, the landlocked salmon are easy prey for sharp-toothed bull trout. 

Whitefish are on the menu for bull trout year-round, and many are the stories of anglers fighting whitefish only to lose them to bull trout which charge out from under a log to grab the hapless poor man's bonefish. 

Bull trout are apt to eat the limp, the lame, the lazy. It’s the erratic behavior that trips the predatory sear in a bull trout's brain. Think strike triggers. Tie or buy streamers with big eyes, a flash of blood red near the gills. On the water, fish them on the wet fly swing, but give them action. Make the imitation twitch. Like a wounded fish in deep trouble. 

FISHING LAKE BILLY CHINOOK 

A down-running Metolius River bull trout ends up running into Round Butte Dam and turning around to make its living in a 4,000-acre reservoir fed by three rivers: the Metolius, the Deschutes and the Crooked River.

Best time to target bull trout in Lake Billy Chinook is when the waters begin to warm in March and April. Bull trout hunt close to shore in the late winter and early spring. Anglers who throw Zonkers and other minnow imitations on long casts and strip hard can elicit hard strikes from fish.

It's one of the best ways to get the biggest bull trout. A lot of 17- to 19-inchers will be brought to the net as well as the occasional 10-pounder.

SWINGING STREAMERS

When whitefish are schooled up, working the bottom, they are hard for bull trout to feed on, but when one of them leaves formation and streaks up to eat a mayfly emerger, its defenses are down and its easy money for bull trout.

When fishing a small streamer or a larger bunny leech, try to work it like a fish that is out of its element, a scared minnow that thought it could play in the deep end of the pool. It's vulnerable. It's lunch.

A variation on that theme is the sculpin. Bull trout eat sculpin year-round. In the river, they eat sculpin. In the lake - sculpin. When sculpin are doing what they do, daubing in the mud, they are pretty safe.

But when they climb up through the water column or get caught in the current, something is going to nail them. Big lead eyes, blood-red gill flare or Flashabou, and prominent fins are some of the strike triggers to play on when tying sculpin flies.

Cast down and cross-current, let it swing and chug it. On long runs and into the tailout, let the sculpin work back and forth. Tied small, a sculpin imitation can be fished with a slackline presentation that keeps it working back and forth over bull trout holding water. 

Think big. If a 30-inch bull can choke down a 12-inch whitefish, it will go for a 10-inch streamer. Big bunny leeches double as flesh flies. Just change the presentation. 

DREDGING WITH A TWO-FLY RIG 

As kokanee carcasses and decaying flesh become harder to find, bull trout begin to focus on bugs. Streamers and flesh flies can provoke a grab, but a dead-drifted nymph can pay off as well. 

To conserve strength, the biggest fish claim the best lies, hugging the bottom along downed timber and behind rock slabs and boulders. The major difference between drifting beadhead nymphs for rainbows and for bull trout is the length of the leader and the tightness of the presentation to the bottom.

Fish the bottom. Keep the leader short so the dropper fly doesn't ride too high in the water column.

Tie on a big, heavy stonefly nymph and knot eight to ten inches of fluorocarbon tippet material to the bend of the hook. The primary fly can be a Flashback Pheasant Tail, an egg pattern, or a No. 16 Serendipity.

The main thing is to get that heavy fly bumping on the bottom. Make it easy! That bull trout should be able to spot the trailing dropper fly, lean its head over, and grab without leaving its lie.

# # #

To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

By Hannah Pennebaker

What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think about Lake Washington? The I-90 bridge, SeaFair hydroplane races, and waterskiing are all popular answers. Lake Washington is the state’s second largest lake, right behind Lake Chelan, and spans about 22 miles long and 108 feet deep on average.

Fishing may not be the first thing that comes to mind about Lake Washington, but there are an astounding variety of fish in the lake, and October is a great time to target them.

Although houses and parks surround the lake, there are many boat launches and fishing docks as well. You may have heard that crappie, bass, cutthroat trout, and yellow perch inhabit the lake.

There are several bass fishing tournaments every year at Lake Washington, with 6 pounders being fairly common. Anglers of all ages line up at the many docks during the summer to catch buckets full of crappie and yellow perch.

You may have also heard about the coho and sockeye salmon fisheries in this lake. While the sockeye fishery has been closed down for years, the coho fishery is still going strong, with good returns predicted this year. Few anglers know about the Lake Washington kokanee fishery, and even fewer still take the time to figure out how to catch them in this enormous lake.

Intimidated by the size of the lake, many kokanee anglers will drive right past Lake Washington and go all the way up to Lake Samish or Lake Whatcom to fish. Don’t be daunted by this lake, it’s well worth taking the time to learn how to fish it.The fat, football shaped kokanee often measure up to 16 or 18 inches in size, and they have bright red meat that is hard to beat on the grill or smoker.

Fellow Northwest Fishing member and Lake Washington master Barry Dubnow often remarks that he would rather fish the lake and come home with 5 fat kokanee than drive all the way out to the Sound, then fight the wind and tides, only to have the chance at catching 2 fish at most!

Did I mention that the kokanee fishery is open year-round at Lake Washington? October is prime time for kokanee fishing, so don’t put the boat away for the season just yet. Let’s start off your Lake Washington journey with some tackle tips, then we’ll dive into locations and tactics.

While typical kokanee tackle works at Lake Washington, there are some strategies and tactics that can make your trip more successful. The kokanee fishery has its peculiarities, and it differs year by year, and day by day.

Short leaders seem to be the ticket, no matter what time of year. Mack’s Wiggle Hoochies, Brad’s Cut Plugs, and Mack’s Wedding Rings all work great. I’ve had days where Old Goat spinners and God’s Tooth spoons were all the fish wanted. Don’t forget to use scent, and plenty of it!

Tuna, herring, and anchovy are all tried and true. Leaded line works great early in the season, but as the fish push deeper due to the heat, you’ll likely need to use your downriggers. Pink is the old kokanee standby, and it works well, but color combinations with some contrast can do better on days when the bite is slow. Watermelon, pink and yellow, and orange and purple will all catch fish.

Like any good kokanee fishery, the key to success is having a few colors and scents of cured corn. Maggots will catch fish on some days, but corn seems to be the ticket. Keep in mind that no matter what you use, kokanee have soft mouths and tend to come off the hook, so take your time when playing your fish and have a net ready.

With miles of shoreline on both sides of Lake Washington, it can certainly be an intimidating lake to fish. How do we find the fish in such an enormous lake? The good news is that there are a few reliable spots around the lake where fish tend to congregate.

There are good kokanee spots throughout, so don’t feel like you need to run far from the boat launch. Those launching from Gene Coulon and Pacific Beach on the southern end of the lake tend to fish near the southern tip of Mercer Island. If you launch from Kenmore or the Kirkland Marina, you can fish in the cove near Juanita Beach Park and all alongside the shore near Kirkland.

Look for points and coves, and try to think about where the krill that kokanee feed on would tend to gather. Find those marks, and locate schools. Drop a pin where you get bites, and pay attention to what depth and speed you were fishing at.

Don’t be afraid to change up your speed or depth until you’ve figured out what the fish want that day. Remember to troll slow, and throw some s-turns and circles in!

Before you grab your poles and cooler, there are a few things to keep in mind while fishing Lake Washington. If you fish during the late summer or early fall, there is a chance you may hook onto a sockeye salmon. You’ll know when the sockeye are in the lake: they show up as large arches near the bottom.

Unfortunately, the kokanee tend to mix in with the sockeye, particularly in the late season when the water heats up and pushes them closer to the bottom. This creates a problem because sockeye retention is forbidden in the lake, and they do not tend to survive catch and release well.

If your rod slams down and starts peeling drag more than usual, be prepared to net the sockeye and release it as quickly as possible. But how do you tell the difference between a sockeye and a kokanee? After all, a kokanee is just a land-locked sockeye salmon.

Legally, any kokanee over 18 inches is a sockeye and must be released, so keep a measuring tape on your boat! Although there is a fish consumption advisory in Lake Washington for pikeminnow, bass, and cutthroat trout, there are no advisories for kokanee as of this writing.

Bad news for those fishermen who like to fish as many rods as possible; two pole endorsement fishing is also not allowed on Lake Washington. Keep these peculiarities in mind, and you’re sure to have an amazing day reeling in your kokanee limit at Lake Washington!

While it can be hard to find information on how to fish this lake, you can find all the reports made by local anglers by visiting our website at www.northwestfishing.net and clicking on the “latest fishing reports” button. Good luck, and I hope to see you out there!

And other ramblings...

Although there are a limitless variety of both the latest, tried and true kokanee lures hanging from the pegs at your local purveyor of tackle, many people choose to hit the water with at least a few home-tied lures. There is nothing wrong with ready tied kokanee lures and depending on the location, many shops will have a section catering to kokanee fishing. Even tackle stores far from a kokanee lake seem to have enough kokanee gear in stock to get you started. Here locally, Holiday Sports in Burlington has an aisle dedicated to kokanee lures, flashers, and lure components. So, with the variety of prepackaged kokanee lures available, why create your own?

I think that the answer is in kokanee fishing overall. Sure, they are a scrappy opponent, taste fantastic, and here in Washington most lakes have a 10 fish bonus limit. But more so, kokanee fishing is a mental game. A successful kokanee fisherman understands both the regional and seasonal adjustments required to consistently put fish in the net. Much of the fishery is spent massaging the grey matter while trying to figure out the trick of the day or even hour. Kokanee are very fickle and when you entice a bite on a lure you tied the whole experience is enhanced.

My personal history of fishing custom lures goes way back. I have always been an avid fly-tier and enjoy making one-offs or attractor flies. In my youth I used a black marker or nail polish to doctor up Oakie-Drifters and Steel-Lee spoons to enhance my steelhead offerings. I spent 20+ years in Southern California chasing anything that swims. I would often put a short notch in the body of small curly tail grubs when fishing for trout in the Sierra’s. The cut would give the tail action a little extra vibration that drove the trout nuts. When fishing the bays and nearshore I would modify my swimbaits with a marker or colored Sharpie. I even bought a mold to cast my own 4 and 5” swimbaits. I poured many crazy colors; I even modified the 5” mold to incorporate a scent chamber where I could squirt a bit of scent into the swimbait. These are just some of the ideas that constantly bubbled from my head on their way to the end of my line. So, why the effort when there is plenty of excellent gear on the market?

It’s that kokanee mental thing, catching a fish on something that you concocted. I think that with kokanee fishing, when you can consistently catch fish on a lure that you developed or modified, it just plain feels good! Hooked yet? How does one get started?

The answer may vary a bit depending on your goal. Do you want to invent the next hot Kokanee fly, design a new spinner blade, or just hobble together some random spinner blade/bead combos? Whatever your goal is, it may be a good idea to ease into your new interest; don’t go out and buy the stuff to make 250 kokanee lures. Start slow; a few spinner blades, beads and spinner clevises. If you’re a fly-tier, you probably already have the basics for any number of kokanee flies. Tying kokanee flies is fun and with some basic skills your imagination is your only limiting factor. 

Although I’m fortunate that I have a dedicated tackle workbench that is well stocked with just about everything needed for making lures, it’s not necessary. Your kitchen table, garage workbench, or even your lap while watching a game are perfect for making lures. I also carry a spinner/lure making Plano box on almost every fishing trip. One never knows when you’ll have to make mods or throw together an emergency lure. 

A problem I have is that I have kind of settled into a given group of custom spinner/bead combos and a handful of kokanee flies that consistently produce fish. Good or bad, not sure. I enjoy making lures but do I need more kokanee lures? No, probably not, but I’m sure that I’ll hatch a new batch of kokanee lures this year anyway. I may even explore the world of tube flies!

Where do you start? I think that before you spend any money, turn the trusty old trout tackle box upside down, give it a good shake and step back to see what you have. That big ball of old tangled up wedding ring spinners will be gold. Is there a handful of small spoons or old flies? Look in the tackle box and you’ll find an old rusty spoon stuck under one of the shelves. Pry it loose, maybe hit it with a drop or two of penetrating oil, and start dissecting your treasure pile. In the end it is likely that you’ll have quite a collection of small Colorado blades, wedding rings, beads, and a variety of components that may fuel your lure making passion all winter. 

You can also purchase the components through one of the many lure making supply websites or your local tackle shop, but be aware that many are either wholesale or cater to the bug-eye crowd. Size 1 and 2 spinner blades are hard to find. If you don’t find any at your local tackle shop, ask if they will make a wholesale purchase and then package in smaller quantities for retail sale. Beads? I think that every fisherperson has wandered down the bead isle at your local hobby store and thought “If I was a fish…” If you are anywhere close to Lacey, Washington pay a visit to Shipwreck Beads, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Believe me, as a tackle crafter you will be blown away!  

Now that you have a box full of doohickies to start making kokanee lures with, now what?

Regarding spinner blade clevises, try to find either the small plastic clevises or the spring type. The folded metal ones are great if you are making wire spinners but with manufacturing inconsistencies, they may abrade the light mono or fluorocarbon that you will be using as leader material. 

I own a couple different wire benders and have tried to fabricate wire kokanee spinners. Even using a very fine wire gauge, the spinners end up being too heavy and rigid. When making kokanee lures, you want the action of the lure to just sort of flutter or follow the attractor action. Wire spinners tend to just hang there.  

Line size? I used to believe a lighter leader line would draw more strikes than a heavier leader. Apparently in the underwater world of kokanee fishing I was WRONG, kokanee are not leader shy. In fact, there are a couple Washington State kokanee fisheries where I start with 20# fluorocarbon leaders and have no shortage of bites. I guess that it is mildly comical. Some days kokanee can be very boat shy, where they won’t bite anything running on less than a 70’ setback. Or crazy stuff; like a boat must be heading east instead of west with Jimmy Buffett, Son of a Sailor on the Bluetooth to get bit, but they have no problem smacking a spinner on an 8” hunk of 20-pound mono. That said, with few exceptions I tie my kokanee leaders on 12-14# fluorocarbon. 

Hook size and color are kind of a personal preference. Many of my kokanee lures are tied using size 4 or 6 black octopus style hooks. I typically tie a snelled rig with 2 hooks. With my standard rig the hooks are pretty close together but there are times where I want a trailer or stinger hook in the set up.  

Maybe a note about leader length; I tend to have spools of ready to go lures when I’m on a lake hunting kokanee. Typically, they are the correct leader length for that fishery. It is a good idea to have a handful of pre-tied leaders that haven’t been cut to length available. The thought is that you’ll be able to assemble your lure then set leader length as required quickly. An 8-10” is kind of a standard kokanee leader length, but sometimes the fish want something different.

Ok, you have a sizable collection of kokanee leaders, now what? How do you store them without ending up with a large cocoon of fluorocarbon? Speaking of…when I was a child, I used to have a recurring nightmare where I got caught in a spider web and then wrapped up for a later meal. In hindsight, maybe what I thought was a spider web was really kokanee leaders. I need to get organized… 

A couple of leader organization concepts are either sealable sandwich or snack bags, or, my favorite, the slotted foam tubes. If using the resealable bags, gently coil your kokanee leader and seal it in the bag. Store the sealed bags in something with a latching lid. With the slotted foam tubes, set the hook in the foam and wrap the leader securing the end in one of the slots. You can store the tubes on a rack, in a 3–5-gallon pail, or a 2-gallon resealable bag. I have found that using an empty 5 gallon to hang your leaders on during the day does wonders for keeping the boat organized as you cycle through set-ups. No point in becoming a fluorocarbon-spider meal, come up with an organizational plan that works for you and your boat.

Previously I mentioned that kokanee fishing is a mental game. As prepared as you are in the comfort of your living room, sometimes once on the lake you will need to think out of the box. My lure/spinner box allows me to tweak my presentations. I might add a couple beads and a second spinner blade, make a leader with a fly, then add spinner components. The box has small spin n glo floats, extra beads, various kokanee flies, wedding ring collars, some kokanee bugs, and a few other things to dress up your lure.    

Whether you are making spinners, tying flies or concocting something else, much of your kokanee lure making will be done at home. Enjoy the time and let your imagination go wild. Shoot, most small children love making lures, make it a family affair. Finally, lures made during the offseason should be stored in a cool, dark place. 

By Randy Castello

Kokanee fishing this spring? Then get the lead out; lead core line, that is. 

Where winter kokanee seems to be a very depth-oriented fishery, we are on the cusp of our popular spring/summer kokanee fishery. Downriggers rule for kokanee fishing, but on our boat we almost always put out 2 lead core line rigs before the downriggers are deployed. Using a properly set up lead core line rig gives the angler fairly accurate depth control without having to use downriggers.

Using the appropriate top shot and the following method for setting up your lead core line rigs, the angler can fish anywhere between the surface to about 30 or 40’ deep with some level of accuracy. To that note; while filming a Northwest Fishing segment, I snagged the bottom with a lead core line set up in 70’ of water while we were trolling in a straight line. Interesting, but how could that have happened?

Lake Southerland

We were trolling Lake Southerland on the Olympic Peninsula. We were metering a large body of kokanee at around 30-40’ in 70 feet of water. I ran out 2 ½ colors, or 60-70’ lead core line, plus my 60-70’ top shot while trolling at 1.0 mph. Not sure exactly what happened, but my guess is there was also an underwater current that was running with the boat. With minimal drag and water resistance on the line, it just sank to the bottom and I had to say goodbye to one of my favorite kokanee dodgers and custom kokanee flies. It was an unusual situation and you wouldn’t want to make a habit of trolling at 70 feet deep, but lead core line can run that deep.

What exactly is lead core line? It is a type of fishing line where there is an inner core of soft lead wire sheathed by an outer layer of braided fiber. Lead core line has been around since the 1940’s and is commonly used by Midwest walleye or Great Lakes salmon and steelhead trollers. The salmon guys use a technical approach using planer boards and multiple lines to target salmon on the great lakes.

Lead Line

Lead line isn’t as common here in the Pacific Northwest but it should be. Fortunately, our lead core line fishery doesn’t have to be technical, we can just clip on a dodger or lure and let out the appropriate number of colors. Lead core line is available at most of our local Northwest tackle shops. Lead core line comes in a variety of “pound test”, 12#, 15#, 18# and others. The line is your weight and eliminates the need for downriggers, planers, or separate weights. Lead core line comes dyed in contrasting colors. The color changes every 10 yards or about 30’. 

The following is solely my opinion and not supported by industry testing or maybe even your own experience. When fishing for kokanee, use the lightest test lead core line available. With the slower speeds used when we hunt kokanee, the test of the lead core line will not affect the sink rate; 15# lead core line will not sink faster than 12# lead line, in fact the 12# lead core line may sink further while trolling. The thinner diameter would result in reduced drag, and may allow gear to sink faster. Finally, 12# lead core line breaking strength is more than adequate for kokanee fishing. 

I think there is belief that lead core line setups are heavy and not really suited for the light tackle acrobatics common when kokanee fishing. For our lead core line rigs, we use standard 7 ½-8’ fiberglass kokanee rods and 150-300 (size ratings very greatly by manufacture) series round baitcasting reels. You really don’t need line counter reels because you will be counting colors; “hot bite at 1 ½ colors along the eastern shore…” My approach for spooling the reels is a bit different and is a phased setup that goes something like this:

On an empty reel with the same capacity as the reel you plan to fish the lead core line on, tape the end of the lead core line on the spool and load 3 colors of lead core line + 3-4’. Cut the lead core line, saving the balance of the filler spool.

Remove the actual lead core from 3-4‘of the loose end of the lead core line on the reel. Using a blood knot, Albright knot, a double uni knot, or other similar knot, tie 20# braid of your choice to the end of the stripped lead line. Then fill the spool with the 20# braid.

Here’s the tough part; you will need 2 empty spools or a second reel of the same type and size. The goal is to load the braid/lead line combo on your working reel braid first. When using the same reel or a reel with the same capacity as the reel temporarily holding the lead core line/braid combo, it is easy to just transfer reel to reel. Otherwise, you have to transfer to a spool, then to another empty spool, and then back on to the original reel.  

The reel is now loaded with 3 colors of lead core line on top. Strip the lead core out of 3 or 4 feet of the loose end of the lead core line. Using your favorite braid to mono (or in this case, favorite stripped lead line to mono) knot, tie on a 60’ 8-12# fluorocarbon top shot.  

That’s basically it. We use the lead core line setup almost exclusively for kokanee, so I just attach a small Duolock snap to the end of the fluorocarbon top shot to make changing dodgers easier. My reasoning for running only 3 colors of lead core line is that at 0.8-1.4 mph, 3 colors is all you need to fish to about 30-40’ deep.

In fact; as previously mentioned, using this approach I have snagged the bottom in 70 of water with just 2 1/2 colors of core lead line out. Running just 3 colors of lead core line with braid backing allows you to load a fair amount of backing on standard bait casting reels with the bonus of reducing the extra weight of additional colors of lead line.

Not always, but when fishing for kokanee, the lead core line rigs typically out fish any of the other rods on our boat. Believe it or not (you have to know me…), I have a theory about why the lead core line rigs are so fishy on our boat. I use a 60-70’ top shot, so even with just 1 color of lead core line out, the dodger/lure combo is running almost 100’ behind the boat.

Any boat-shy fish would have regrouped and forgotten about the big, noisy aluminum shadow that just passed overhead. Additionally, I know that I’m weird and overthink these things, but I think that the sonic vibration of the sheathed lead line moving through the water has some positive affect on a fishery. Something akin to a dog whistle: we can’t hear it, but they come running.

Whether or not the kokanee come running or swimming, lead core line is a deadly effective tool in our kokanee arsenal. It works equally well with the smaller dodgers, flashers, and gang trolls used for kokanee fishing. With the telltale thump, thump, thump at the rod tip, having at least one lead line rig in the water is a great indicator that your trolling speed is correct. 

Lead core line rigs are also an exceptional choice when pulling small stick baits or minnow type lures baits for cutthroat and rainbows. Just run ½ a color and get the frypan ready! Lead core line and stick baits go together like peas and carrots. The takedown when trolling stick baits on lead core line is surprisingly aggressive. The fish’s battle for freedom seems to magnify as it telegraphs up your lead line to your rod tip.

Once you set up a lead line rig or two, you’ll likely find that the lead core line rigs will be your go to kokanee rods. Lead core line is effective and straightforward to use when paired with the smaller dodgers, flashers, and gang trolls we use for kokanee fishing. Lead core line is equally effective with small spoons and stick baits for various trout species.

The initial investment may seem extravagant, but it’s still cheaper than a pair of downriggers. If you’re fishing from a kayak, canoe, inflatable, or even a drift boat without downriggers, your lead line rigs will be indispensable in your quest to do battle with a PNW silver football.

As we say goodbye to our summer boating weather you may find yourself wondering, “Do I winterize or do I find something to fish for?” Either way, you should probably winterize your boat, motor, and trailer, but let’s talk trolling for winter kokanee. 

Winter kokanee in Washington State? Sure, so go ahead and winterize, but keep the keys handy. Find your gloves and earmuffs and make a thermos of steaming hot coffee because there are kokanee opportunities to be had. Both Western Washington and the Eastside have winter kokanee lakes. 

Kokanee are the non-anadromous form of sockeye salmon. Basically, by choice or otherwise, kokanee are landlocked sockeye salmon. Kokanee are native to many Pacific Northwest lakes and have been introduced to a number of lakes across the United States.

The life cycle is of particular interest to winter kokanee anglers. Although there are exceptions, kokanee typically live 3-4 years before they spawn and die. For the dedicated winter kokanee angler that means that there are 2-3, maybe even 4-year kokanee available during the chilly months. 

Winter kokanee fishing is a little different than our spring and summer fisheries. Most winter kokanee fishing is done in deeper water. Kokanee prefer water that is 50-56 degrees. In part, they are more active in this zone because it is rich in oxygen boosting energy to chase down their next meal. Each lake varies, but finding “the zone’” is important during winter kokanee fishing.

One way is to keep your eyes glued to your fish finder and look for fish. This is where the best fish finder/chart plotter you can afford is your friend. When you find fish, mark the spot, and pretty soon you’ll have a winter kokanee map.

With it you can amaze your guest fishermen and go right to where they are. They’ll think you are the “Koke-Wisperer”, maybe a kokanee-shaman or something… You can also use a Fish Hawk Digital Gauge or the Vexilar Deptherm to graph out the water temperature at depth.

Winter kokanee fishing is more of a love thing, there is rarely a hot bite. Each lake has a winter fishery sweet spot depth. Generally, in Western Washington it is 30-60’, and in Eastern Washington 40-200’ deep. Each lake, especially on the westside, seems to have a brief period each day where the kokanee will put on the feed bag and go on the bite outside of your usual grind it out depth. 

Kokanee are filter feeders, and the bulk of their calories come from plankton blooms. There are windows any given day where there is a bloom or hatch, and the kokanee will briefly leave their comfort zone to feed. Because the bite may be 2:06-2:23 at 43’ it is best to choose your winter kokanee lake close to home and learn it. Especially when winter kokanee fishing, keep a detailed fishing log. 

Both summer and winter fish are a noble opponent. They often make short runs, jump, and go bonkers at the net. Summer fish are more aggressive, but winter kokanee take more finesse to get them in the net. After plating, smoking, or chowder-izing hundreds of kokanee, both the summer and the winter fish are excellent table fare, but the winter fish are outstanding for whole or fillet pan-frys and grilling.

The following list includes winter kokanee lakes that I am familiar with, and is focused on trolling. I am sure there are other winter kokanee lakes available. My westside lakes were originally selected because they are open all year and they have deeper basins that may hold fish. Both the westside and the eastside winter kokanee lakes are listed by my preference. My preference is based on success, proximity to home, and the potential for a trophy fish. 

Eastern Washington

Lake Roosevelt – Nothing in Eastern Washington is close to home, and to be honest, as I get older, I don’t like hauling the boat over the pass in the winter anymore. That said, I love fishing Lake Roosevelt, so with the right forecast we may head that direction.

I’m sure kokanee are available throughout the lake, but we usually fish out of Spring Canyon and focus on the dam area, but we also fish the lower 5 or 6 miles. I typically start at about 40’, but may fish 100+ deep as required. Because there is the potential to hook a 3+ pounder, I typically up my leader to 20-pound fluorocarbon.

Lake Chelan – It is a great winter kokanee lake, offering pretty consistent fishing. The winter kokanee fishery is concentrated between Manson, maybe the Narrows, up to 25 Mile Creek. There is enough kokanee in the Wapato Point area to keep you on the water if, or should I say when, the weather kicks up. The winter fishery at Chelan is a deep fishery, you can expect to run your gear 80-200’ deep. Watch the weather!

Before I get to the westside lakes, let’s discuss winter boating safety/etiquette. Carry chains for both your tow vehicle and for at least 1 axle on the trailer. Bring a couple sand bags and a shovel. A liberal application of sand can be a lifesaver.

At the ramp, assess the situation before you back down a long icy ramp. Take the time to chain up your tow vehicle if required. Thought being; although once your tires hit the water you’ll have traction, the area between the top of the ramp and the water could be icy. You don’t want to jackknife ½ way down the ramp. It would put a damper on your kokanee plans.

Once the trailer is wet you may have to let the rig sit in the water for a bit to thaw and let the boat float free. Be safe on the boat, you don’t want to slip and end up sharing the lake with your aquatic rival.

Finally, and as a courtesy; at the end of your time on the lake load your boat and slowly pull out of the water just enough to clear the water. Stop and let the rig drain or drip-dry, this will minimize ice buildup on the lower 1/3 of the ramp. 

Western Washington

Lake Washington – Although not exactly close to home, Lake Washington is my favorite westside winter kokanee lake. Our largest westside kokanee was a 3.13# 18” fish. We have caught many 1# plus and a few 2# kokanee in Lake Washington. To protect juvenile and migrating sockeye salmon there is an 8 – 18” slot limit for kokanee on in Lake Washington. A standard sockeye drill works, but consider stepping up your speed and gear selection. Most of our larger Lake Washington kokanee were taken on hoochies and 8” flashers. The eyes have it; what am I talking about? Who knows why but most of our large Lake Washington kokanee were bamboozled by a lure with eyes. If Lake Washington were closer to home, I’d be fishing it every day that I possibly could.

The large Lake Washington kokanee that left a mark on my fish finder.

Lake Cavanaugh – Lake Cavanaugh is an odd duck, easy kokanee limits for fish 10 – 18” kokanee during the spring, summer and fall, but when winter comes around it seems that every kokanee you catch is a chrome 8 – 12” fish. My nonscientific guess is that the majority of the kokanee in Cavanaugh spawn at 4 years and the winter sport catch are primarily 3-year kokanee. Most winter kokanee in Lake Cavanaugh will be caught over the deep pocket just east of the islands.

Lake Samish - Samish is really close to home with the typical winter kokanee bite being later in the day. It is a great lake for “breakfast and chores are done, let’s go fishing”. The lake includes a large basin with a smaller connected lake at the north end. When fishing winter kokanee on Lake Samish, most of our fish are caught in one of two areas. The first is along the west shoreline just west of the WDFW launch.

The second is generally in the center, maybe favoring the north shore/center of the small lake. Your trolling speed is critical, plan on fishing .8-1.0 mph with lots of “S” turns. Oddly, we have caught a fair number of Samish winter kokanee pulling small minnow type baits for cutthroat, but standard kokanee gear is a better starting point.

Lake Stevens – We don’t fish winter kokanee on Lake Stevens often, but it does host a winter fishery. There may be local secrets, but in our experience Lake Stevens winter kokanee are a hit or a miss. Most of our winter kokanee were caught along the bay at the northwest side of the lake. Typical kokanee gear with a pinch of nightcrawler or worm seems to have an edge over tuna corn.

Yale Lake – Yale is a great kokanee lake and is open year-round. There are winter challenges if you decide to make the trip. The wind can produce some crazy short chop, so make sure that you check the forecast before you hitch up the trailer.

We haven’t had a problem but I’m pretty sure that the reservoir water levels are down November-February. The Yale Park launch should be open but other ramps may have restrictions.

Finally, there could be hazardous floating debris/flotsam. Boat with caution, and if it’s choppy, slow way down. The winter kokanee fishery should be concentrated by the dam or across the lake from Speelya Creek. In my experience, if fishing less than 30-40’, run really long setbacks or use lead line rigs.

OK, you have some idea which way you’re headed in your kokanee quest, now what? I don’t really change overall tactics when fishing winter kokanee. The usual kokanee drill; a small dodger, lure with tuna corn is a great place to start.

Make sure you have your favorite scents, maybe a container of worms, and additional leader onboard. Not always, but occasionally, you will need to increase your leader length.

When trolling for winter kokanee, you will want to stay under 1.0 MPH. I probably do more “S” turns or engage the “Hunt” mode on my iTroll more often during our winter kokanee adventures. Our dodger box has more dodgers in it than most, but during the winter kokanee fishery my go to dodgers are painted, copper, or even dark metalflake.

Using either double spinner rigs or flies behind the dodger seem to consistently produce kokanee during the winter fishery. After you hook your cold weather prize, gently fight the fish, and, as with any kokanee fishery, a long handle net will increase your actual catch verses hook up statistics.

I know that it will be cooler out, maybe even freezing, and the lake temperature should be down as well.  But make sure you still care for your catch. Bleed them and keep them on ice, or, even better, in a slurry in your cooler; you’ll want to preserve the quality of your hard-earned prize. 

Winterize or not, keep your kokanee gear handy. The above is just a starting point. Choose a lake, learn it, and you’ll soon be the local expert! Trolling for Washington State winter kokanee can be frustrating.

With the closure of most of our winter salmon fisheries, a bit of frustration will quickly become an addiction. Enjoy your winter kokanee adventure, but with the potential for rainy, slick roads, be sure to use extra caution towing your boat to and from your new favorite winter activity.