Onward Hoh... River That Is

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If ever there was a river world renowned for its beauty, versatility, and Gollum-like trophy steelhead, this is it. 

The Hoh River, from deep within the Olympic National Park, sourced from Mt. Olympus himself.

Floating north and west with a full mountain embrace, collecting headwater tributaries like badges of honor. A collection of blue and white glacial waters swirling under a canopy of fierce and protected old growth, this braided channel river looks to be strategically created. An art unto itself. Its milky slate blue waters, glisten like the eyes of a newborn.

The Hoh River flows 56 miles from its headwaters to the Pacific Ocean. The South Fork Hoh River is 17 river miles in length and enters the main stem at the Olympic National Park boundary at RM 30. The upper section of the Hoh watershed lies entirely within the Olympic National Park. The middle section of the river flows through state and industrial forest and valley homesteads. The Lower Hoh River encompasses the lower third of the watershed, 16 river miles from Highway 101 to the Pacific Ocean. 750 miles of tributaries flow into the river below ONP. Of these, 250 miles provide fish habitat. Numerous spring-fed terrace tributaries feed the Hoh River.

The Hoh River watershed is home to four species of wild salmon, steelhead, and many other fish and wildlife species.  Located at the mouth of the Hoh River, the tiny Hoh Indian Tribe or “Chalá·at” ("Those-Who-Live-on-the-Hoh River") are dependent on the fish and wildlife of the Hoh River for their subsistence and commercial economy. Protecting the watershed’s function is key to preserving these important resources, not only for the tribe, but also for fishing and recreational communities in nearby cities and towns, and up and down the coast.

Despite this river's status as one of the healthiest in the country, the Department of Fish and Wildlife has enacted severe restrictions on coastal steelhead fishing due to “low returns.” It was specifically focused on the long-term decline of coastal steelhead in the Queets and Quinault watersheds, Quillayute River system, Hoh River, and Willapa Bay River system.

Between December 1st, 2023, and March 31st, 2024 there are opportunities to fish from floating devices on the Hoh Sunday through Tuesday only from the Morgan’s Crossing boat launch downstream to the Washington Department of Natural Resources Hoh Oxbow Campground boat launch, and Wednesday through Saturday only from the Hoh Oxbow boat launch downstream to the Olympic National Park boundary near the mouth.  

Barbless single hook, catch and release only. This is a continuation of the WDFW implementation of the Statewide Steelhead Management Plan which requires the Department to prioritize the sustainability of wild coastal steelhead runs by focusing on healthy levels of abundance, productivity, diversity, and distribution.  

While these regulations are creeping onto every river in the state, if you are like me, it isn't necessarily a deterrent. There is more than just catching to all of this. It is the gorgeous scenery, the fresh air, the sun on my face and wind in my hair. Even the rain, which you should expect. 

Annual precipitation is 140 to 170 inches. The Hoh Rain Forest is one of the finest remaining examples of temperate rainforest in the United States. Giant Western Hemlock, Douglas-fir, Western Red Cedar, and Sitka Spruce dominate the landscape, while ferns and mosses cloak the trees and forest floor. This is a great reminder of why I am here, alive and a part of it all.

The Hoh River is what legends are born from, whether you are a conventional or a fly angler. From a bank or a boat, you are bound to have a great time. Prime fishing for winter Steelhead happens in February and March, though any time of the year the river is producing, depending on what you are fishing for.

If steelhead aren’t your thing, don’t worry – the Hoh boasts impressive salmon runs each year from late spring through fall and manages to sustain returning populations of both Chinook and coho salmon.

The early summer run of Chinook begins in May and is productive through about August.

The Coho run on the Hoh, like on all other Pacific Northwest rivers, occurs in the fall.

If you’re a salmon fan, fishing in the Hoh can be good from May through November, if the river stays open.

Resident trout are available in the river in addition to sea-run cutthroat that make their way up the river later in the summer and through the fall.

Where do you go from here? Do you prefer floating down the river with a seasoned guide? There are plenty of options. Hopefully, I'll have many more opportunities to meet some more awesome river guides but today I am going to throw a nod out to Pat Neal. (Hoh River Rafters)

With 35 years of experience, Pat has the Hoh River in his back pocket. He is a writer for the Peninsula Daily News and a published author. He is warm and funny, and made me feel completely at ease in conversation. One of my biggest hangups with float fishing is space and comfort, but I look forward to some solid adventures with this local gem.

If walking the banks is your thing, there are three DNR-managed campgrounds with river access and a lovely property called Hoh Valley Cabins ( Hoh Valley Cabins). The Peterson family are descendants of some old-timey pioneers; their family property covers about 500 acres and over a mile of riverfront with access to the river.

In this age of river closures and limited opportunities, we are lucky to have one of the last strongholds of Winter Steelhead right in our backyard. Observe where you can fish, do not encroach on tribal land, and always check the rules and regulations prior to embarking.

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Megan Bennett
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Late Winter Steelhead Fishing

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Winter Steelhead fishing… where do we start? First off, winter Steelhead fishing in Washington is unique and different from many of our other fisheries based on one simple fact, the weather. The winter generally brings cold, dark, and wet days which makes this type of fishing a bit more extreme. So then, why do we do it? Great question, but the bigger question is, why would we not?

There is an allure to Steelhead fishing that is hard to describe. I know that there is nothing that I would rather do. On top of inclement weather, Steelhead are more elusive than our migrating salmon and less predictable, making them more difficult to catch. Changes in river conditions during the wet, winter months are constant, forcing us to drop what we are doing and go when the conditions are best.

We also need to change up our techniques based on river conditions. One more thing worthy of mention is that there are limited hatchery program opportunities left, so much of our Steelhead fishing is the catch and release of wild fish. I find that wild fish tend to fight better and to me, there is nothing quite like battling an amazing fish and holding onto its tail as it builds up the energy to swim off to where it came from.

For those of you interested in winter Steelhead, I would like to share some information that might help in getting started. I am only sharing what I have learned but I hope that the information is useful. Also, if you have followed my articles in other outdoor magazines, then you probably know that I spend a lot of time fishing with professional guides all over the Pacific Northwest. This helps as I can share a perspective that has been obtained across many experiences and years of fishing.

Most of my Steelhead fishing has been done in the rivers in NW Washington, SW Washington, and the Washington Coast, specifically Forks and the Quinault and Queets Rivers within the reservation. There are so many options available, so I recommend that you start with a river that is near you and learn a little about it…the rules, the opportunities, and most importantly, some good guides who know the river well. I encourage you to spend the money to fish with a guide to learn what works and understand how to target fish in different conditions. Know that every guide has a different opinion and approach, so try a few to gain a broader perspective.

Once you have spent time on the river with a guide or two, you can focus on the gear that you need. Believe me, you can spend a lot of money quickly so make sure that you get it right. To start, you should have a nice pair of waders and wading boots and a waterproof jacket. Getting cold and wet will ruin your day in a hurry. Next, and just my opinion, focus on 2-3 techniques that you would like to try and focus on the gear needed for those specific approaches. I find that it is best to master a few techniques before expanding your toolkit.

There are many popular techniques for catching Steelhead such as casting or trolling plugs from the bank or shore, throwing spoons and spinners, float fishing beads, bait, jigs and other offerings, drift fishing or bobber dogging beads, yarnies, bait and other offerings, and much more. So many different options to choose from and they all work.

If had to pick 2-3 techniques, here is what I would do. It’s hard to choose because they all work and some work better at certain times and under certain conditions. I like to float fish maribou jigs and soft plastic worms on jig heads, and I really like to float fish beads. My float fishing approach for beads combines a float, inline weight, a long leader with some split shot in the middle, and a soft bead that bounces along the bottom. Aside from these techniques, I love to throw spoons and spinners. If I am fishing from a drift boat as opposed to bank fishing, I like to troll plugs in long stretches of slower-moving, deep water.

If I was to start fresh right now, I would have a lot less gear in my garage. Now there are many different types of rods and some work better for certain techniques. If I had to pick one rod to use for multiple techniques, I would go with a 9’6”, 6-10# to 8-17# rated spinning rod with a 30/3000 or 35/3500 size spinning reel. I prefer a bit lighter rod to maximize sensitivity and have found that 30# braid works best for my mainline along with a 10-15’ bumper of fluorocarbon. This is a great all-around rod and reel setup that will allow you to employ most of the methods that I listed above.

If you want to focus on float fishing, I recommend a 10’6” rod that is designed for this purpose. The added length really helps you mend your line easily. For “old school” drift fishing, I prefer a one-piece 7’6” rod but most of the time I am bobber dogging, which is simply drift fishing with the addition of a float/bobber to pull your gear naturally along the bottom and downstream. A 9’6” rod works great for bobber dogging, and you can easily break it down to fit inside your car.

Once you have your clothing, rod, and reel, you can focus on terminal tackle. For this, I recommend going to your local tackle shop as opposed to a “big box” store. You will get valuable advice that will help you to purchase the best gear. Also, lean on what you learned from the guides you fished with, and make sure to take pictures of their gear setups and rigging when you fish with them. At this point, you’re going to need a collection of swivels, bobber stops, small beads for your bobber stop, and leader material, generally fluorocarbon. Note that if you don’t want to tie your leaders immediately, you can purchase them pretied.

It’s also a good idea to have a selection of hooks in sizes from #4 to 1/0 or even 2/0 in some cases. Purchase a box of soft beads in a variety of sizes and colors, some maribou jigs in pink/cerise/orange combinations and the red/white/black nightmare patterns, as well as 1/8 or 1/4oz jig heads (I prefer white) and some 3.5” plastic/rubber worms. Don’t forget a selection of weights. I am a big fan of the stainless-steel weights from Dave’s Tangle Free. You have enough gear to get you through a winter of learning and chasing Steelhead. Between maribou and worm jigs and beads, you can fish in just about any condition. It would not be a terrible idea to have a few spinners and/or spoons as well. They are fun to toss when nothing else seems to be working.

Now, you have learned the basics from one or more guides, you have learned how to fish a specific river system, you have purchased a handful of the gear that you need and the time has come to go out and give it a shot. Believe me, you don’t have to go buy a drift boat to fish. There are plenty of opportunities to wade and bank fish. Also, I encourage you to continue to fish with guides if you want to boat fish or make a friend who has one. Believe it or not, many fishermen who own boats are looking for fishing buddies, so join a Facebook group to make some friends. 

Winter Steelhead fishing is an amazing pastime and until you have spent some time doing it, you really don’t realize how special it is. One warning, don’t expect to go out and catch a Steelhead on your first trip. They are called a fish of 10,000 casts for a reason. I can say that they are very special fish, and you will never forget your first, or for that matter, any Steelhead that you catch. Now, get out there and good luck.

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Brent Knight
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Trout Fishing: When Life Gives You Lemons.

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Farmed. Hatchery. Wild.

I fed a rusty orange streamer into the current, threw an upstream mend, and let it swing. We call it First Water. It's what you get early in the morning when you get to the river before the next guy. First Water makes you smile after a hard week at work. Like making lemonade out of lemons.

A trout hammered the fly and the tippet snapped. Heart pounding, I cut the leader back to 8-pound, tied on another fly and cast quartering-down. This time when the fish hit, it turned and charged, coming straight out of the water. Five minutes later we slid the net under a four-pound gnarly, hook-jawed brood stock rainbow. We have learned from experience it's hard to revive the big hatchery rainbows, so it was an easy decision to keep it for the table.

A brown trout from East Lake. Photo by Gary Lewis

FARMED, HATCHERY, WILD OR NATIVE?

Here's a thing that doesn't make sense. We go to the grocery store and complain about the price of groceries and then we drive to the lake and catch and release a limit of rainbow trout at $10 a pound. I've done it. 

Hey, those fish were put there to catch and keep. It's healthy food, high in omega-3 fatty acids and B vitamins. Easy to catch (sometimes). Easy to clean. Tastes good. Good for you. 

Think of it like this: we have rainbows, cutthroats, brook trout, brown trout, bull trout, and lake trout in our lakes, rivers, and hatchery raceways. Some of them end up behind the butcher's glass at the grocery store. How do we tell where they came from? The ones in the cellophane and Styrofoam, that's easy. Those are farmed fish, which are generally shoveled a high-quality pelletized food and then fed a carotenoid called Astaxanthin which gives the meat an orange color and improves the taste. 

According to Luke Allen, from the Wizard Falls Hatchery and Tim Foulk from the Fall River Hatchery, astaxanthin is produced by microalgae which is ingested by small fish and invertebrates like krill, which are then ingested by fish.  

In Oregon, hatchery-raised rainbow trout (and cutthroats) are classified as legals (usually 8 to 12 inches), trophies (usually 14 to 18 inches), and brood stock, which are the surplus breeding trout that tip the scales somewhere between four to ten pounds. In Central Oregon, these fish end up in places like Pine Hollow Reservoir, Walton Lake, South Twin, and Fall River. Hatchery trout may also be released as fingerlings in waters like Lava Lake, East Lake and Diamond Lake where the natural feed is so good the fish grow fast. Fingerlings are also released in the high lakes every other year. Fingerlings, although raised in hatcheries in geometric order, tend to behave and look more like wild trout as they reach a harvestable age.

The terms wild and native can refer to the same fish or mean two different things. Brown trout, brook trout, and lake trout are not indigenous to Oregon but were introduced. Browns come from Germany and brooks come from the East Coast. That's why we refer to them as German browns and Eastern brooks. But if they were hatched in gravel we call them wild trout.

This hatchery brood stock rainbow, its nose and caudal fin rubbed by the hatchery raceway, took a streamer fished in a lake inlet.
Photo courtesy Don Lewis

The term native is inclusive of rainbows, cutthroat and bull trout. In some cases these fish may be caught, kept and eaten, but it’s a good idea to release them to spawn and prosper. If you catch a brookie in the high lakes, hey, that's some of the best wild food you can get. And you are not eating a native fish.   

A steelhead is a rainbow trout that migrated from freshwater to the ocean and returned. If a person eats farmed steelhead, it is probably not steelhead at all, but rainbow trout packaged as steelhead. An angler that catches and eats a fin-marked steelhead has consumed a hatchery steelhead. Surplus steelhead that returned to their hatcheries in places like Nehalem or Three Rivers are often trucked to coastal lakes and set free to give anglers another chance at them. Because they will probably not thrive in the lake, the highest use of these fish is to turn them into a good meal. 

Fisheries managers sometimes struggle with the divide between the consumptive and the catch-and-release ethic. 

Diamond Lake was devoid of fish before it was stocked by mule trains in the early 1900s. The food-rich lake still grows fish to trophy proportions and not enough gets taken home by sportsmen. It's a resource we could be making better use of, and the same principle applies all over the state from Lake Selmac to Wallowa Lake to Bikini Pond to Rock Creek Reservoir to Lava Lake. Those fish are there to eat. And there are some really good things like dill, parsley and lemon that go great with a pan full of eastern brookies or hatchery 'bows.

That's why I say when life gives you lemons, go catch a trout.

For a copy of the Fishing Central Oregon book, send $29.99 to Gary Lewis Outdoors, PO Box 1364, Bend, OR 97709 To contact Gary Lewis, visit www.GaryLewisOutdoors.com

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A Beginner’s Guide to Winter Steelheading

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Slap on your earmuffs and grab that tacklebox, it’s winter steelhead season here in the Pacific Northwest! Steelhead, which are sea-run rainbow trout, call out to devoted anglers like a siren’s call. There’s just something special about these fish. They are elusive and wary. Some fishermen go their entire lives without landing one. These silver bullets are well worth pursuing, however. They make delicious table fare and put up terrific fights. Winter weather can create extra challenges, but it just makes netting these beautiful fish even more rewarding. Many anglers are tight lipped about their steelhead tips, which can make steelhead fishing intimidating to beginners. Let’s go over some tackle ideas, clothing tips, and hot spots to help make your first winter steelheading trip as productive and safe as it can be.

Tackle

In order to understand how to catch winter steelhead, you must know that there are some differences between summer and winter steelhead. Summer run fish head into the rivers early, and mature in the river over several weeks or months. Winter runs go into the river mature and ready to spawn. In general, winter steelhead are less aggressive. The cold water slows down their metabolism and makes them less willing to grab your offering. If you’re able to entice one into striking, hang on! Steelhead are famous for their long, athletic runs. Winter steelhead are often a bit bigger and fatter than their summer-run cousins as well.

One of the most convenient things about winter steelheading is that they are perfectly willing to bite cured salmon eggs! Around this time, I always have a fresh supply of eggs leftover from the previous salmon season. They are one of the best baits for winter steelhead! However, you’ll generally want to use a different strategy for curing them. Steelhead generally like a sweeter cure than salmon do. Most egg brines meant for steelhead create a harder, more durable egg, while salmon cures will make a softer, “milkier” egg. You can either drift your eggs or float them with a bobber. If you’re all out of salmon eggs, don’t fret. Winter steelhead absolutely love sand shrimp and coon shrimp! Make sure to tie a good egg loop knot and tuck your bait inside the loop. You can use stretchy thread for extra security. You can use a combination of eggs and shrimp to make your bait even more enticing. 

If you’re fishing on a river where bait isn’t allowed, or you don’t feel like covering your winter gloves with shrimp and dye, spinners, spoons, and jigs are deadly effective on steelhead. Just remember that the fish will be holding near the bottom, and let your lure sink before reeling it in. Bring a variety of different colors and weights: river flows and depths change constantly, and you may need a heavier lure than you were using the other day just to reach the bottom. Steelhead can be surprisingly light biters despite their size, so make sure you are attentive and ready for the strike. One of the most popular ways to catch steelhead is to float a 1/4 oz jig under a bobber. Make sure to adjust your bobber stopper so that your jig is floating just above the bottom, however. You can tip your jig with a bit of prawn if bait is legal where you’re fishing. There are a wide variety of jigs out there, and many anglers even tie their own! Experiment with a variety of colors and jig materials until you find what the fish are keying into.

Clothing

Nothing can ruin a fishing trip like the cold. Layers are the winter steelheader’s secret weapon! The fish don’t wait for good weather before moving in, and you may not be willing to wait weeks or days for a clear day. Check the forecast, but we prepared for sudden inclement weather too. Neoprene waders offer good insulation from cold water, but a good base layer and loose, warm pants can also work. Wool socks are a must! Gloves can make a huge difference. Even on relatively mild days, my hands can get cold, making it difficult to switch lures or apply scent. Hand warmers have come a long way these days. In addition to disposable, shake to activate handwarmers, there are also reusable ones. Many sporting goods stores in the area offer lighter fluid powered and battery powered hand warmers. Test out your options and figure out what you like best. Propane space heaters are also great options. My friend recently put a diesel heater in his Thunderjet, and it makes a world of difference. I’d recommend pre-tying your leaders, to minimize the amount of tying you have to do while fishing. It’s a good idea to bring a change of socks too, just in case. Nothing will make you feel more cold and miserable than wet socks. Earmuffs, hats, or head bands will help, but partnering them with a warm scarf will make all the difference on those frigid winter days. Be prepared! I would recommend gearing up the day before and spending some time outside. If you’re already cold, pack on a few more layers and try again until you’re comfortable.

Locations

More so than any others, steelhead fishermen tend to be the most tight-lipped about their secret spots. While it’s not my intention to “blow up” anyone’s honey hole, I do want to at least steer beginner anglers in the right direction. I’ll always remember the euphoric rush from landing my first steelhead, and I wouldn’t have known where to go without guidance. As previously mentioned, summer steelhead enter the rivers sooner in their life cycle, and spend months maturing and moving upriver. By contrast, winter steelhead don’t travel nearly as far upriver, and some spawn within a few days of going in the river. Check the WDFW hatchery escapement report daily for updated numbers. The Skykomish River, Cowlitz River, Humptulips River, and Wynoochie River all boast good returns of winter steelhead every year. The Cowlitz River is usually open every year, but the Humptulips and Wynoochie River may be closed if they do not reach their escapement goals. You can try coastal rivers such as the Hoh, Sol Duc, and Calawah if you are willing to make the drive. Make sure to check the regulations though, several of these rivers do not allow fishing from a boat. Be respectful of private property and tribal land. Drift boating is always hazardous, but the frigid waters during winter create extra danger. It’s never a bad idea to go out with a guide on your first winter steelhead trip. They can show you the right way to drift the river safely. Remember that rivers change every year, and always be on the lookout for submerged rocks and trees. 

While looking up popular locations for steelheading can be a good way to get started on your journey, you should also be able to recognize water that fish are likely to be holding in. In case your desired location is already full of anglers, or you just want to try a new spot, familiarize yourself with “steelhead water”. These fish are looking to spend the least amount of energy to get upriver and will take the path of least resistance. Sometimes the path of least resistance is right next to the shore, so make sure you fish your lures all the way to the bank. Look for calm waters near tailouts where fish are likely to be resting. Also check behind boulders and logs, but be careful of snags. I’d recommend thoroughly fishing one hole before moving on. Try both bait and lures, you never know what the fish will want that day. Winter steelheading can be a bit of a grind, but you’ll forget all about the cold and your numb hands and ears when you’re fighting a 15 pound silver bullet!

Wherever you decide to fish for winter steelhead, make sure you check your rules and regulations. Familiarize yourself with catch and release best practices. All wild steelhead in Washington State must be released. Make sure to check for an adipose fin before removing your fish from the net or pulling it into the boat- it’s illegal to remove wild steelhead from the water. Never grab a fish you intend to release by its jaw or gill plate. Wet your hands before touching the fish, to avoid damaging its protective slimy layer. Rather than just throwing the fish back, it’s a good idea to gently put the fish back in the water, facing it into the current so that water can flow over their gills. Let it swim off when it’s ready. If you must take pictures, take them quickly, and prioritize getting the fish released as soon as possible. Wild steelhead are beautiful, rare creatures that should be treated with the utmost respect and care.

Good luck on your winter steelheading adventure! Bundle up and stay warm out there!

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Hannah Pennebaker
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