coho salmon fishing

November is here, bringing chilly winds and icy rains. Although the year is almost over, the good news is that the coho run is not. Many rivers, coastal ones in particular, hold late-running fish from November well into December and January. But how do you get these fish in your cooler? 
Bait has its time and place. For picky A run fish in clear, low water conditions, eggs are king. November is the perfect time to start using hardware for these big and aggressive B-run fish. Let's go over how to use spinners and spoons for these late B run coho.

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Spinners

If I had to pick my favorite way to fish for coho, it would be throwing spinners. The takedown is aggressive, and there is no question when you have a fish on. Spinners are a great way to search for fish when you aren't sure where they are holding. Cast and retrieve in a spot several times, then walk down 10 steps and repeat until you get a bite. Late-run fish are more aggressive and more likely to strike a well-presented spinner. It's a good idea to bring weighted and unweighted spinners. Make sure to use a bead chain or two attached to a snap swivel so you can change between the types of spinners easily. Unweighted spinners such as Wicked Lures can be fished with a variety of different inline weights according to the depth and speed of the run you're at, making them incredibly versatile. I carry inline weights between 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz. Wicked Lures come in a variety of different colors and sizes. I like the pink/green ones as well as the black/pink ones for most conditions. 
Alternatively, weighted spinners such as Blue Foxes are a great option as well. Use small, dark size 3 spinners in clear conditions, and bright size 5 or 6 spinners in murky conditions. Fish will chase down spinners and aggressively chomp them, making for a fun fight. Vibrax spinners have a lot of drag and tend to ride higher in the water column than torpedo spinners. Use the right spinner for the conditions!

Spoons

Much like spinners, spoons are an effective way to search the run for aggressive fish. Spoons can be fished a multitude of ways for coho. You can drift small spoons like Dick Nites or throw larger ones, like Little Cleos and Kastmasters. Smaller spoons wobble and dart when drifted like a cork and a yarn. Many northern Puget Sound anglers use this technique with great success. Use a 3-6ft leader and don't change out the hook- no matter how tempting it is! Bigger hooks would change the action of the spoon. The stock hook works just fine as long as you don't horse the fish in. Cast upstream and follow the drift with your rod tip, using just enough lead to tick the bottom every few seconds. It takes some patience and time to learn what a bite feels like. It can be subtle, so don't wait to set the hook until you feel headshakes. 
For larger spoons, it's tempting to fish them like a spinner, but the technique is slightly different. Cast upstream and allow your spoon to sink. Point your rod at the spoon and mend your line as it drifts downstream. Feed out the line as necessary to keep the spoon slowly wobbling near the bottom. The action drives coho crazy! The takedown is much like a spinner bite- aggressive and unmistakable. 50/50 colors work well in most water conditions. It's a good idea to keep a variety of different spoon shapes and colors to see what the fish key in on. Every day is different, and every fish is different.

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Setups

Rods and reels for hardware fishing tend to be based mostly on personal preference. While some anglers prefer to use a heavier, shorter rod, I like to use a light and long noodle rod. I find that these absorb the headshakes and jumps much better than a short, stiff rod. They also allow me to cast light spinners when the conditions call for it. Pair your rod with a size 3000 to 4000 reel.

I highly recommend using braided line with a monofilament top shot. This allows you to have the sensitivity of braid, but if you break off, you'll leave monofilament in the river instead of braid, which will break down much sooner. 8-17lb rated rods work great, but I've used 6-12lb rods as well. Use at least an 8ft rod. For my leader line, I use 10-15lb fluorocarbon. I find it has good abrasion resistance but also looks almost invisible in the water. Tighten your drag, but loosen it up after your hookset. Remember, these B run fish are big, hook-nosed brutes. You're in for a fun fight!

Now is the time of year to perfect your hardware technique for those large, aggressive B-run coho. Spinners and spoons can be used in both slow and fast water, making them a versatile technique. Not every river is open in November, so make sure to check both the regulations and emergency rules before heading out. Pinch those barbs or buy barbless hooks if required; it never hurts to double-check. The Fish Washington app is a great resource! 
 

If you ask me my favorite fishery of the year, I will always tell you that winter steelhead fishing is king! There is a romance to steelhead fishing in the winter that is unlike anything else, and I can’t get enough of it. A very close second is fishing for Coho salmon in our many rivers around the Puget Sound and along the Washington Coast.

Coho salmon begin entering our river systems in the early fall, generally from mid-late August, depending on rain. The migrations vary by river, but in some cases continue through January. The peak time to target these fish is from late September into late November. Since 2025 is a pink return year, I expect that the Coho will likely push in just a bit later to avoid the massive influx of pinks. We have over 7,000,000 pinks forecasted to return to the Puget Sound this year. You can always find both species in a system at the same time, but I don’t believe that they like to compete for water, and hence, the Coho tend to avoid the pinks as best they can. For this reason, I have found that early run Coho are often found in less common water when the pinks are in. Think center of the river in the current and on the soft edges.

The best thing about fishing for Coho is that they tend to be very predictable. You are going to find them holding up in softer water, staging for their final push to their spawning grounds. As one group moves out of a hole and upstream, another will travel up and fill in. This will continue as fresh fish enter the river system and continue to migrate upstream. For this reason, I have found that Coho are much more predictable and easier to target than species such as spring Chinook or winter Steelhead. The advantage of Coho fishing is that we often experience greater numbers of encounters, get to fight many fish, and often restock our freezers for the winter.

It is important to note that during the fall, you may find Chinook, summer Steelhead, Pinks, Coho, and even Chums in the same system. Depending on the river, you may be able to keep multiple species and, in some cases, even unmarked fish. Make sure that you read the regulations closely and comply with all rules related to gear restrictions and retention.

Coho can be finicky and may not bite at times, but by nature, they are very aggressive and territorial. It might take a bit to get one to bite, but once you do, it is usually game on for a while. The nice thing with Coho is that you can employ many techniques to target and catch them. It is fun to anchor in a slot and pull plugs. There is nothing quite like the takedown on a plug to get your heart pumping. This is a great technique for those who are looking for a relaxing day on the water. Note that fishing plugs generally means that you are fishing the traveling lanes, not the soft pockets of holding water.

Some prefer to use bait. For years, cured eggs drift-fished was the go-to technique. There are so many options today that you don’t see bait used as much. Some are even switching from bait to beads as they work very well and can be drift fished, bobber dogged, and even used under a float. Speaking of floats, fishing jigs like we do for Steelhead is another fun and proven method to target Coho in slow-moving water. Again, a jig takedown under a float makes for an epic fight.

Currently, I see more anglers targeting Coho in holding water by casting presentations at them. My favorite technique is to throw spinners, but depending on the river system, Wiggle Warts, Dick Nite’s behind an inline weight, or with a dropper, spoons, Wicked Lures, homemade hoochie spinners, and jigs all work very well. The technique that is really catching on is twitching jigs. A twitching jig is a bit heavier than a normal jig, weighing anywhere from 3/8 to 1 oz. They come in a variety of colors and are deadly for Coho. To twitch, you simply cast your jig towards your target and let it sink towards the bottom. Twitch up on the rod from about 30 degrees to 75 degrees and reel ¼ to 1 turn as you drop the rod tip. The speed of your retrieve will dictate your depth in the water column. Note that twitching will work in water as shallow as 2 feet and is deadly effective in deep pools. The takedown when twitching is unmistakable and often very violent. The only drawback to twitching is that it does tend to tire you out, so plan to mix it up throughout the day.

For newbies, I highly recommend that you book with a guide for your first few trips. Learn the tricks from them on where to find fish and which technique to use to target them based on the water you are fishing. Try the river systems in the North Sound, such as the Snohomish, Skagit, or Nooksack systems. Try the SW Washington rivers, such as the Cowlitz or Lewis. Target the rivers feeding into Grays Harbor and the Chehalis system. Some of the largest Coho can be found in this region. For a real adventure, try the rivers on the coast from the Humptulips all the way up to the Quileute system near Forks. I know that the lower Quinault can be a ton of fun when fished with a tribal guide.

I have always said that the fishing in an odd year for pinks is a great way to get the kids interested, since they will catch a lot of fish. Coho are not much different in that they tend to be plentiful and are often not hard to catch. The advantage of catching coho is that they make great table fare once they enter the river. Some might even say that they taste better after they have been in fresh water for a bit.

Give it a try and get out this year! Learn a new river system. Try a “new to you” technique. Most of all, have fun!

There’s an old adage that when one door closes another opens. In this age of fishery closures I think it rings very true for anglers. We have limited options, but that doesn’t mean we have no options. Nowhere is this truer than for this falls Puget Sound coho fishery. As any salmon angler around Puget Sound knows, Area 9 is closed for boat angling for coho. Per WDFW, the reason for this action is to protect expected low runs of wild coho and pink salmon returning to the Skagit and Stillaguamish rivers. But right next door, Area 10 is open for clipped coho. This presents a unique opportunity for anglers targeting coho. What is that opportunity you ask?

Area 10 is on fire with coho salmon!

My wife JoAnn and I recently launched our boat out of the Edmonds Marina and instead of turning north, we headed south, toward the oil docks. What we found was some impressive coho action that we certainly did not expect. And reports coming in to our web site, NorthwestFishingReports.com, from other anglers confirms it - this could shape up to be an outstanding year for coho fishing in Area 10. The two days we went out resulted in limits for us, the second day it took just an hour to catch a limit of coho. In the two days we fished we only ran into one unclipped fish. I have a couple theories for our success and also some observations that may help improve your success rate if you fish Area 10.

First, the reason I think this will be an outstanding Area 10 coho fishery. Pretty simple, these fish have hit Area 9 and passed through without being targeted. All those fish that would have been caught as they swung through Area 9 instead got a free pass to head south. (This also bodes well for our terminal fisheries of Lake Washington, the Green River). So anglers in Area 10 are getting a shot at fish that are ready and willing to bite and haven’t seen our gear since they left the Strait of Juan De Fuca. They are growing bigger and more aggressive as they head south to their natal destinations.

What are some of the locations anglers should be targeting? I would say follow the boats, but in this case I’m suggesting you stay away from the boats. Oh, there are the usual haunts to use as starting points. The waters just off the ferry terminal at Edmonds, south to the oil docks, Richmond Beach, Meadow Point, and Shileshole will all produce. On the west side Apple Cove Point (south), Kingston, and Jefferson Head are all well known. In addition, Elliot Bay, but check to make sure it’s open (as I’m typing this it is).

As my wife and I caught our easy limits we watched boats around us. We saw nets coming out and fish being caught in decent numbers. That said, there are a few things you can do to increase your success rate.

First off, as noted above, don’t fish in the fleet.

Coho in the Sound are traveling all over as they make their way south. They will concentrate around points because that is where bait can become concentrated, but in the travel lanes they will be all over. So ask yourself, “do I want to fish with seventy five of my close friends or do I want to move 300 yards away and have the water to myself?” I know how I answer that question. I admit its human nature to hang out in a group. That’s why we live in cities. But when it comes to coho fishing in open water you’ll do just as well and probably better off by yourself. Plus it makes it a lot easy to swing back on these fish as they are not loners. When you catch one you should know there are likely a half dozen swimming along.

Let’s talk about another factor that I think many anglers don’t focus on – speed. A few years back I ran a Go Pro off my downrigger ball to film some underwater coho action. (you can watch this video on our YouTube page, just search for “Puget Sound Underwater Coho” on YouTube). The most striking thing I saw on this footage was the response coho had to getting the flasher to fully rotate.

If the flasher did a wave back and forth or an occasional rotation the salmon would just swim behind and watch. But when the speed increased and that flasher went into full rotation mode it was “game on” as the coho suddenly became more excited with the followers suddenly darting back and forth until one committed and hit the bait. Watching the action I became convinced that speed is critical in improving your success rates on coho salmon. That’s not to say you can’t catch coho trolling slower and many do, but I think you’ll do better going fast. How fast? We troll 3.1-3.3 mph into the tide flow and 3.4-3.9 mph with the tide.

The difference in speed is because trolling into the tide activates your flasher, like pulling a plug in the river, the plug dives easier into the current. Trolling with the flow of the tide means your boat is being pushed along by the tide so you need more speed to activate the flashers into full rotation. The other thing you need is good downrigger clips and to bury them at least three quarters into the clip. Trust me, when a coho hits at 3 mph it will pop the clip in almost every case. There’s nothing worse than clipping too light and having to constantly reset your downrigger. It will cause you to slow down which you don’t want.

In addition to fast trolling my boat has an itroll throttle control on my kicker. I bought it from ifish solution’s Alan Hanna. He sold me on the importance of varying your speed. The unit does a superb job with multiple programmable functions to set automatic speed adjustments. Just set it and go. The two days we got limits I had the itroll set to “bump” the speed up 0.3-4 mph every two minutes for 15 seconds. What this does is give the flasher a rotational increase that can stimulate the coho into a bite if they are in “mesmerized mode”, just following your bait but not biting. The speed variation can be enough to trigger a bite. If you don’t have a throttle controller you can simulate this to some extend by doing s-turns from time to time. Avoid the habit of trolling in a straight line at a constant speed.

As to gear that worked for us, we went with smaller 8” flashers, generic medium-sized hoochies in splatter green/glow, white glow, and army truck. We also had good success with an Arctic Fox Trolling Fly Salmon Series in blue. Leader lengths were 26-28”.

In the past we have had great success fishing deep, down to 90-120 feet on the downrigger cable. With a 3 mph trolling speed the sweep back of the cable would suggest actual depths of 70-90 feet deep. This trip, however, we had no fish finder on the boat so set the downrigger rod at 35 feet first thing in the morning and lowering to 45 feet deep as the morning progressed. We also opted to run a Deep 6 on our second rod out 60 feet, which would put that gear right around 30-35 feet deep. This rod saw the majority of the action. There’s nothing like watching a rod double over and hearing that reel clicker scream!

I hope you have a chance to go out and hit this fishery. The action should be good into early October so there is plenty of time to get your coho. Good luck and stay safe.