Northwest Reel Life

As outdoorsmen, we have a duty to continue to cultivate the resources that are our land and water. How many times have you pulled into a boat launch and seen it torn to shreds? Concrete half off the ramp, rope handrails cut and laying lifeless, no longer serving their purpose. What about the campsite with half ripped apart beer cases, food scattered around, and dog poop on walking paths? One of my personal favorites is seeing trash thrown in the firepit. It’s one thing if the stuff thrown into the firepit can burn up (I’m plenty guilty of that), it’s another when the material should’ve been disposed of properly. The old adage of “pack it in and pack it out” is simple in speech and at times aggravating in action. My college football coach had a saying, “do what you are supposed to do, when you are supposed to do it, and do it that way every time”. The lens in which that quote was said was more along the lines of eat right, study your playbook, and lift hard, but the message applies across the board. Leave it better than you found it.

This isn’t meant to be a tirade against littering (not that I’m pro-littering - there is a Seinfeld skit somewhere about this I’m sure) or some kind of political statement. Rather, just an observation from a summer that I’m sure many of you shared. Time with friends and family outside. Some of us are lucky enough to have boats to get out on the water. Others may hike up into the mountains for some serenity and isolation. Then, for a brief moment, you realize the person there before didn’t care enough to keep the place clean. It probably doesn’t consume much of your brainpower or ruin the weekend, but it’s enough to make you roll your eyes and sigh. Those are the kind of simple things we can all do to help one another continue to enjoy these shared spaces. 

Hunting Season

Another element that should be considered, particularly for those hunters among us, is the consideration of land water access. Familiarizing yourself with the public vs private land, access points, and limits on how many people can utilize certain access points are all equally important and part of our duty as conservationists. I remember during the last hunting season being continuously peppered by advertisements from Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks (FWP) about the importance of seeking permission for type II block management access (BMA). It certainly didn’t hurt that the advertisement featured a cameo from MeatEater star Ryan Callaghan. A quick sidebar for those who aren’t in the know - Block Management in the state of Montana is a partnership between private land owners and FWP to grant access to hunters on private land, sometimes adjacent to public land.

Type I BMA allows hunters to sign in on a card for hunting permission on private lands; you simply show up, fill out a card, and go hunt. Type II BMA often requires a reservation and is subject to availability from the land owner. Examples might be limiting the number of hunters in a day, hunting parties in a day, or what type of game is being hunted. The word partnership isn’t used by mistake. It takes action on all parties involved to maintain access to these hunting areas. The land owner to continue to be willing to allow hunters on the land, MT FWP to facilitate the opportunity for hunters, and hunters to respect the land and do their part to make sure their presence is continually welcomed. Leaving behind shell casings, wrappers from eaten protein bars, or other garbage is a quick way to find our access to otherwise great areas suddenly restricted. Maybe you don’t own 1,500 acres of land but instead a 1,500 square foot home. Would you be willing to invite back a stranger who tracked mud all along your carpets? Even worse, how about a buddy watching some football at your place who stains your couch with buffalo chicken wing fingers rather than wiping his hands. Why would we expect those land owners to welcome us back if we’re doing the equivalent?

Let’s continue to work together to make sure we can enjoy the outdoors we all know and love. It doesn’t take much to clean up that last bit of trash, keep debris and clutter out of the community that should be enjoyed by all and keep shared areas like boat launches in working condition. If not for you and I, how about for our kids who hopefully enjoy these hobbies, and sometimes obsessions, as much as us. 

Whoo-hoo! The long-coveted Baker Lake sockeye season is in progress! The 2023 Baker Lake sockeye season is proving to be an interesting one. Through the North of Falcon process, the planned opener was scheduled to be Saturday July 15^th. Because record numbers of sockeye have signed up for a ride in the fish taxi, the WDFW decided to open the fishery 1 week earlier. The opener was July 8^th and the action has been on fire. It was reported that boat limits were the norm and many ice chests were full just a few hours or so after splashing the boat. In fact, on opening day one of the fishing specialists at Holiday Sports in Burlington, Philip Chuprinov, his wife Alexus and gang got their 12 fish boat limits in in less time than it took to drive to the lake and back.

OK, the fishing is good, but what is a “fish taxi” and why the early opener? Sockeye in Baker Lake are native to the system. After the Upper Baker Dam was constructed in 1959, sockeye were cut off from access to the natural Baker Lake. With limited success, various methods were used to trap and transport returning adult sockeye to the newly formed Baker Lake, while smolts were left to out migrate via controlled spillway releases. By 1985 the population crashed, and the trap count was only 99 fish. As a component of PSE’s permit to generate power, PSE developed a mitigation plan for sockeye recovery.

Long story short; both Baker Lake and now Lake Shannon have a surface to lake bed “gulper” net that funnels out-migrating sockeye smolts into a collection facility where they are processed, counted, and then transported for release at a trap facility on the Baker River in Concrete. The returning adult fish are trapped analyzed and then loaded into live transport trucks, AKA “fish taxis”, and transported up the hill. Some sockeye are placed in artificial spawning bed runs while others are held as hatchery broodstock. The rest are released into Baker Lake.

Historically, the Baker Lake sockeye run slowly ramps up, then spikes during the second week in July. This year, after a very short ramp up of 200-400 fish a day, on June 27^th the fish counts absolutely exploded. For the next 10 days, the daily trap count was running from 1,200-3,000 fish. With agreement of the North of Falcon team, the WDFW made the decision to maximize the fishing opportunity and open the fishery 1 week early.

The 2023 Baker Lake sockeye season is July 8^th – August 31^st but may close early to assure that 1,500 fish are able to spawn naturally in the lake. There is a 3 fish daily limit for adult sockeye. With the two-pole endorsement, two poles are allowed and all anglers onboard a boat may deploy gear until each angler onboard has caught their daily limit. Because Baker Lake is actively monitored for regulation compliance, make sure to record your catch before you redeploy the gear. The Baker Lake catch code is 825. Are you jonesing for a grilled sockeye fillet or a bowl of fresh sockeye poke yet? If so, read on, if not there’s always a Safeway seafood counter nearby (it’s probably cheaper).

There are 5 launch ramps on Baker Lake. They are as follows.

PSE Baker Lake (Kulshan) Launch

The boat ramp has a moderate grade. Concrete blocks have been placed along the side of the ramp for protection from erosion. No designated disabled parking. The parking lot slopes slightly. Nearby, Kulshan Campground offers campsites, a RV dump station, and both restrooms and porta potties. Overnight parking is discouraged within the boat ramp parking area but is available just down the hill from the ramp. Kulshan is typically my go to launch ramp.

Horseshoe Cove

The boat ramp has a gentle grade. Launching and load occur on both sides of the gravel and sand bar. The surface is uneven from wave erosion and vehicle use. No designated disabled parking. Horseshoe Cove Campground also offers campsites, drinking water, picnic area, group camp area, and vault toilets. Overnight parking is available. 4-wheel drive is advisable.

Panorama Point

The boat ramp has a gentle to moderate grade, lots of parking and a vault toilet. The Panorama Point Campground is separate from the launch. Depending on lake level, the asphalt ramp approach stops short of the shoreline. Additionally, a drop off has been created by wave action and the gravel is becoming rutted from parking lot run-off. With the uncertain ramp conditions, 4-wheel drive is advisable.

Swift Creek

The Swift Creek launch is paved or concrete and is usable at all lake levels. There is a tall bulkhead wall on one side with a short log boom on the other side of the ramp. There is also a small marina adjacent to the ramp. The marina has limited non-reservable short term tie up but no services or fuel. Swift Creek Campground offers campsites, drinking water, picnic shelters, a group camp area, and vault toilets. Overnight parking is available. I advise that you have a capable mate at this ramp. If solo, there are no provision to tie up your boat right at the ramp. Solo, you’ll have to deal with your boat after launching and you’ll be holding up traffic. Unless you’re offering free coffee and doughnuts, generally not a good thing at 2:30 in the morning when there is a long line of headlights glaring at you... Having somebody run the boat while you go park is a solid community-based plan.

Shannon Creek Campground

The boat ramp has a gentle to moderate grade. Ruts are developing around the ramp due to the runoff from the parking lot drainage. Waves have been creating some erosion along the shoreline. No designated disabled parking. Shannon Creek Campground also offers campsites, drinking water, picnic sites and a vault toilet. This varies year to year, but they may be limiting launch access to campers registered at Shannon Creek Campground. 4-wheel drive is advisable, and this is the best launch for hand launch boats and inflatables. With just a short run you’re in Grand Central Sock-station.

Maybe a few words regarding the logistics and fishing Baker Lake. Once you turn onto Baker Lake Road there will be no services, fuel, food, or camping supplies available. Make sure your pre-trip planning includes extra fuel, ice, propane or whatever you’ll need for your trip. Early morning, evening and anytime you’re in the shade there will be mosquitos. Not a few pesky mosquitos but a large squadron of blood thirsty flying vampires, I think they even have radar, night vision, and little stick figures drawn on their blood engorged bodies. As a bonus, I even stepped on a yellow jacket nest last year, be aware. Above all, this is a true combat fishery. Patience and ramp courtesy will assure everyone enjoys the experience.

After some deep thought I think that the biggest thing I can say about late season Baker Lake sockeye fishing is patience. The fishing can be very hot or very cold. Whereas the day before, limits may have been the rule, it is not always, and fishing may be dead. Slow fishing or otherwise, there are a few things you can do to improve your odds and put a few late season fish in the box.

As mentioned, patience (theme) will be the name of the game, and trust your electronics. Especially during your pursuit of late season sockeye, you will see the fish on the meter before they chase down your offering. When chasing late season sockeye, the more flash the better. Some people run 2 attractors and/or run a dummy off their downrigger ball. Other people bend their flashers to give them more wiggle and flash. Make sure you keep your gear clean; I don’t think that the late season sockeye like the scent of yesterday’s bait or scent oils. That said, make sure to use fresh bait. The 2013 sockeye bait you found in the back of the bait/beer fridge is not going to cut it.

Location is important in your pursuit of late season Baker Lake sockeye, although there are stock areas of the lake that consistently fish well. Areas like the Kulshan Loop, Maple Grove, Silver Creek, Noisy Creek and the Race Track along Baker Lake Road all reliably produce fish. The problem is each of those areas will also have a healthy aluminum hatch. With all the gear dangling in front of their noses, the fish may just ignore it. In my experience it pays to go look for fish. Many times, I find schools of willing biters in shallow water. Often, after a slow morning I have just flatlined gear in shallower areas of the lake and picked off limits in one or two passes.

FISH ON THE METER! Now what? Typically, a “0” size 50/50, chrome or pearl dodger is the backbone of the setup. While you can catch fish on tandem red, black or blue hooks the fishiest gear includes small spinner blades, Smiley Blades or Wiggle Hoochie inserts. Thinking outside of the box also has advantages. Sometimes the fish just don’t want the standard gear. We have had success using the kokanee size Brad’s Cut Plug lures, Coho Killers with an extra bend in them, kokanee/sockeye flies, and Brad’s Wee Warts. Start with the basics, a “0” dodger and a bare 3/0 red hook, and then be prepared to make changes until you are consistently catching fish.

Downriggers are the way to go with this fishery, but dropper rigs rack up many of the fish caught at Baker Lake. When running downriggers, beware, the lake is uncharted and there are many stumps, old structures and who knows what else to snag you downrigger ball on. If using downriggers, be alert and be prepared to part company with your downrigger ball (does your pre-trip planning include an extra downrigger ball?). Safety first, especially if fishing out of a shallow freeboard skiff, kayak, or inflatable. A 10-pound hunk of lead is not worth losing your boat or giving your boat mate unexpected swim lessons. Try to maintain your trolling speed at .8-1.2 MPH, and we have found that 5-10’ setbacks from your downrigger clip are all that are required.

Another thought and in my mind a gem of an opportunity. Late in the season these fish form tight schools and cruise around on the flats where the Baker River flows into Baker Lake. There are several underwater springs in the area and the fish seem to be staging for the spawn. With caution you can slowly motor (or row) into the area, find a pocket of fish and drop a dead weight anchor. There will be a ton of logs and woody debris so don’t use any kind of pronged or claw anchor. An old pile of chain or bucket of cement is perfect. Caution: do not come into this area of the lake on plane or even any faster than at idle. Depending on lake level there are numerous stumps and trees just waiting to meet your prop. Why go to all this effort? Glad that you asked…

With a little luck and an adventurous spirit, you can set yourself up to sight fish sockeye with a fly rod. Let me tell you it is an absolute hoot, and once you have it dialed in, you’ll be a serf to the great sockeye gods. You’ll go to sleep dreaming about watching your line snap tight as the water seems to boil around it and wake up in a sweat still dreaming about your airborne quarry.

I’ve said this before; Baker Lake sockeye are the best eating fish in the state. To preserve their quality, bleed and ice your catch immediately. If you’re camping, gut the fish and pack the body cavity with ice, layer the fish in ice with a handful of rock salt evenly scattered around on top of the ice. It is best to use an ice chest that is dedicated to your prize catch. Leave the ice chest drain plugs out. This will prevent your catch from sitting in an ice chest ½ full of cold, very slimy sockeye sludge.

So, those are the late season basics; I wish you luck and an enjoyable trip to Baker Lake. Please be respectful of the opportunity to fish Baker System sockeye. This fishery is closely monitored and there will be multiple game wardens, WDFW, and Sheriff Department personnel conducting on the water checks. If there is widespread abuse, they will close the fishery. Be courteous, know the regulations, limits, and gently release any Dolly Varden trout caught.

We slid down out of a tail-out and into the next riffle. I was in the bow, tilted into the front brace, rod up. "Cast left, this side has the fast water." Twenty-three-year-old Cole McAuliffe, of Chrome Tales Guide Service, was on the sticks, his curly hair around his shoulders. McAuliffe flicked the right oar and lifted the left. Water ran down off the blade and the boat caught in the current. I flopped an inelegant short cast, looped an upstream mend, and watched the two-fly rig catch the foam line past a jagged submerged rock. Sloppy but perfect. The float plunged and I lifted the rod into a summer steelhead that rocketed out of the shallow slot and into the air, twisting three feet above the water.

Oh, there is something about hooking a summer steelhead on a fly when you know the leader is 10-pound test and you have a lot of river!  

We were only 20 minutes off the launch and no one on the water ahead of us or behind us. Is this not the great Rogue River? Where is everybody? But then I remembered, it was the hottest week of the summer and the rafts and tubes would hit the river about 11 in the morning. And I would be with them, except I'm older and smarter. We met each other earlier this summer when I helped McAuliffe find a highly efficient German shorthair chukar dog, and after the deal was done we both saw a drift-boat shaped hole in our August calendars.

Out of the launch with the sun just breaking over the Cascades, McAuliffe charged the boat straight across the river to a favorite run where a fat sea-run cutthroat waited for us. Now, barely ten minutes later, we had a steelhead on the line, on 10-pound Maxima, charging downstream. 

Down through the tailout of the next riffle we followed it, and before I could get the fish's head up, it tail-walked again. Moments later, McAuliffe grabbed the net and made one stab for it when the fish was close, as if we had been fishing together for years instead of just the last 20 minutes. I jumped over the side into the shallows and lifted the wild fish out of the net and showed it to the young guide with the Wild Bill Hickock haircut, shooting my camera. But the fish was done with handshakes and flipped out of my grasp. Five pounds of shiny summer steel, back into the water from whence she came. 

There are not as many good summer run rivers in Oregon as there used to be, as hatchery managers have ratcheted back on the good times we enjoyed in the '80s and '90s. Did we have too much fun then and now we have to work harder for our fish? Guess so. McAuliffe, by my calculations, was born at the end of that era and, as fishing guide is his chosen profession in the 2020’s, he is probably going to hear from a lot of middle-aged clients about how it used to be. Today a fishing guide has to work harder. And get up earlier in the morning.

Now I had steelhead lenses on, reading water left and right, with Cole sliding the boat from one good slot to the other. Depending on the water, I used my fiberglass 5-weight to swing a fly or his 6-weight TFO with the float and two-fly rig. McAuliffe said the summer run steelhead season has started stronger than last year and while a lot of guides are using spinning gear, he prefers to stick with the fly rod.

At the business end is a No. 10 beadhead with a heavily weighted stonefly nymph to get to the bottom fast. We adjusted the float to run about 2X the depth of each run. We looked back upstream. Still no one behind us. Still no one ahead. We had first water all the way to the takeout. And trout in every drift. A few were hatchery rainbows and a few were smolts, and they beat the steelhead to the fly.

Trout chased the float, they chased the stonefly out of the water on the retrieves and swiped at the point fly, and I expected a fish on every drift. Get up early in the morning to beat the floaters and the cone-lickers. Go for the trout fishing and let the steelhead surprise you.